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Kit Basher

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Posts posted by Kit Basher

    Tire decals?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Fat Brian said:

    When I used tire decals I tested putting them directly on the tire and they silvered around the edges. The second time I brushed the sidewall with Tamiya acrylic clear then applied the decal and then hit it with another coat of clear since I wanted a shiny look. I think you're correct about putting the tires on the rims first, anything you put on the sidewall is likely to crack when putting them on the rims.

    Yeah, I am concerned about silvering. The tires are more of a flat color, not shiny like old AMT tires. The closest thing I have to Tamiya acrylic clear is Future, I may try some on the inside of a tire and see if it sticks. I can always get Tamiya clear if that would work better.

    I'm wondering if anyone has used something besides Dullcote. I have a bottle of Tamiya flat clear. Would that make any difference?

    Tire decals?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    Thanks, guys. It sounds like my best bet is to put the tires on the wheels before doing the decals. The tires are kinda hollow and very flexible, very similar to the tires and decals on Jim's Corvette. I will have to mask the wheels, as I want to keep them a bit shiny.

    Any additional advice would still be welcome.

     

    Tire decals?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    I'm building the Revell "2017 Ford GT Le Mans". It's time to put the decals on the tires. I haven't done this before, so I have a couple of questions.

    Any special prep needed to make the decals stick to the tires?

    I'm guessing I will need to do something to take the shine off the decals. I have Testors Dullcote, but is there a better product or technique for doing this?

    Can I put the tires on the wheels after decals and clear, without destroying the decals?

    Any advice would be most welcome. Thanks

    Thinned tube glue

    in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Richard Bartrop said:

    Yes, liquid cement is not kind to paint, and neither is CA glue.  My goto adhesive for small stuff where I don't want to damage paint or plastic is five minute epoxy

    I totally agree. I wouldn't even consider using solvent cement to glue a chrome door handle to a painted body. Epoxy for sure.

    Thinned tube glue

    in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials

    Posted

    On 5/13/2023 at 6:25 PM, Richard Bartrop said:

    Honestly, I don't really see the point of thinning tube glue instead of just using the liquid stuff straight. Touch the brush to a seam, and let capillary action do the rest.  If you have gaps to fill, add some bits of scrap styrene.

    I do most of my building using liquid cement straight the way you described. Where I'm finding the thinned tube glue useful is for small parts or painted/chrome parts. I can scrape the glue surface, place the thinned glue, and assemble the parts. When I try to do that with straight liquid cement, I inevitably get cement where I don't want it, damaging the paint or chrome.

    I'm not suggesting that thinned tube glue is the only glue you will ever need. I use several different glues, depending on the application. For me, this is another tool in the toolbox that helps me with certain jobs.

    • Like 1

    Thinned tube glue

    in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials

    Posted

    20 hours ago, SfanGoch said:

    Thinning tube glue with a liquid cement is a ponderous method to create something which already exists. Plastruct Plastic Weld and Bondene, for example. accomplish the same thing. So do Testors 3502XT and Tamiya 87012 with no strings attached, (pun intended). All of these liquid cements allow time to properly position parts.

    For me, the advantage of the mixture is that it is thicker than liquid cement like Plastic Weld or Bondene, and can be placed precisely, in exact amounts. That makes it good for small parts. I do use liquid cement for things like engine block halves where I can just let it wick into the joint. I am not familiar with the Testors and Tamiya products you mention.

    5 hours ago, Lunajammer said:

    That was probably me. I’ve advocated for that several times. Yes I still have my other glues but I like to have one where I can manage a viscosity that falls in between the others. It’s part of my tool arsenal.

    Well then, thank you Mike! I don't intend to use it for everything, but for certain jobs, it's been working great for me.

    • Like 2

    Thinned tube glue

    in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials

    Posted

    Awhile ago, someone on this forum mentioned that they use tube glue thinned with liquid cement. I wish I could remember who that was, so I could thank him. I decided to give it a try, and it has been a game changer for me. It is easy to control (no strings!), and once applied with a toothpick or small brush, stays where you put it. It stays wet long enough to position a part, then grabs hard and fast. Since it is a plastic to plastic "welded" bond, you know it isn't coming apart. I mix up small batches in a Testors paint bottle, and it keeps for weeks. I can always thin it more if I need to.

    So, to whoever suggested this, THANK YOU!

    • Like 2

    Decal printing fail

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    3 hours ago, gman said:

    In the sympathy category, I had the same happen with ink jet decal paper in my Epson printer- the ink beaded up on the paper and distorted the printed image. I tried a few things including rubbing the decal paper area to be printed with an eraser, which only marginally made a difference. Different printer modes did not make much difference. Some printers and their inks just work better for decal paper than others. I've still got the Epson printer, and haven't tried again- I may have another go when the printer gets replaced.

    I've had the same experience as Greg. I could not get good images with the Epson printer, even with inkjet decal paper. The Epson would print the image perfectly on photo paper, but I tried a couple different brands of decal paper and no luck. An old HP printer worked fine, on the same paper. I think there must be something about the way an Epson prints that doesn't like decal paper. I hope you have better luck.

    How Do You Remove Paint From Chrome

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    On 4/1/2023 at 9:41 AM, NOBLNG said:

    I definitely wouldn’t soak it in lacquer thinner because it will attack the styrene underneath if it can get through anyplace.😬 Maybe careful rubbing with a Q-tip or Tamiya swab soaked in the thinner. I would try the hot water or alcohol methods first. You could maybe try some commercial paint remover also, but you would have to first do a test to ensure that it doesn’t attack the chrome or styrene.

    Yep, I wouldn't soak it either. I brushed on the lacquer thinner, then immediately wiped off the paint. Worked great. As I said, no guarantee it would ever work again.

    '66 Chevelle

    in Model Cars

    Posted

    18 hours ago, bogger44 said:

    Well done Hugh!  That is a great shade of blue.  I wouldn't mind getting my hands on one of these someday.

    Thanks, Tony! This kit was re-released by AMT in 2022. Shouldn't be too hard to find.

    Thanks, Larry!

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