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Posts posted by Kit Basher
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6 hours ago, peteski said:
Could it have made the paint too thin (more like a wash than regular paint)?
I think maybe Peter is right. I use that thinner (in the red can) all the time, and have never had that problem, even on bare plastic. I went back to using it after lacquer thinner had a bad reaction with one color of Testors paint. Yes, it's expensive, but it works reliably on all their paints. One thing tho, don't use it for paint you are going to store for a while. It will turn the paint to Jell-o pretty quickly. At least that's been my experience.
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Nice job! The weathering and plumbing are excellent. I agree that the photos could pass for the real thing.
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I'll join the crowd on the color, just gorgeous. Nice job, Jim.
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Thanks, Ken!
Thanks, Sam!
Thanks, Scott! I look forward to seeing yours finished. It really is a lot of fun to build.
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Great job! Very clean and nicely detailed.
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Thanks, Guido!
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11 hours ago, TransAmMike said:
Thanks Dave. I'm open to suggestions for clear, I do have an old bottle of Future.
And another question.......can/should the Createx I have sprayed be sanded to smooth out any light roughness or small imperfections??
Auto Air can be dry sanded, I'm guessing Createx can too. If you sand it you will probably lose your pearl effect though. I sometimes sand the next to last coat, and then give one more light coat of paint. Even if you don't sand, you can clear coat and then polish the clear to a smooth finish. It looks good, but if you look closely you can kinda see the roughness of the paint under the clear, if that makes any sense.
Your paint job looks good to me. Unless it's more trouble than it's worth, don't give up on this paint. It looks like you're getting the hang of it.
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Thanks, C!
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Thanks, Geoffrey!
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Thanks, Dan!
Thanks, JT!
Thanks, Jim!
Thanks, Rick!
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Thanks, Doug!
Thanks, Chris!
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2 hours ago, cobraman said:
I guess I do but I love the P4 Ferrari
Me too, I would like to build a model of one. Unfortunately, the prices of those kits and the GT 40 have skyrocketed since the movie. Fujimi should re-release both!
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Thanks, Brian!
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Thanks, Larry!
Thanks, JC!
Thanks, Steve!
23 minutes ago, cobraman said:Looks great ! One of my favorite cars right behind Shelby Cobra's and the Daytona.
Thanks Ray! I get the feeling you kinda lean toward anything Shelby related...?
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Thanks, Larry!
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Thanks, Dave!
Thanks, DJ! It was a fun kit to build, and went together well, except for the warped bed. It's a lot of pieces, and took me 6 months or so, off and on, but I enjoyed it.
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Thanks, Josh! I look forward to seeing your gold one.
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In one of my earlier attempts, I had a similar problem. It was not a case of the paint drying in the tip of the AB, it was actually congealing inside the brush. I had to soak the AB in lacquer thinner to get all the gunk out. That's when I found that the 4030 has to be thoroughly mixed with the paint before adding any thinner. Since you didn't use thinner, it sounds like there is a similar issue with using 4030 alone. As mentioned before, the 4030 is not a thinner, it is more of a retarder/flow enhancer. I would suggest getting some 4012 thinner and using that as a thinner, with no 4030. The 4012 is available at Hobby Lobby, at least the one I go to. That mix should spray well with no clogging. If you find that you're getting uneven covering or fisheyes etc., then maybe add some 4030 to your paint- mixed well before adding thinner!
To give you a starting point, here is the recipe for Pearls/Metallics from the Createx Hard Surface Application Guide:
Mix 4:1 paint to 4030 balancing clear.
Thin 5-10% by volume with 4012 thinner.
Allow 10+ minutes for paint to acclimate.
Airbrush with 0.5 mm tip at 27-33 psi.
Createx recommends spraying these paints in very light coats, with no one coat giving full coverage. Since it dries so fast, it doesn't take long to spray 4 or 5 coats, and get full coverage.
I know it sounds confusing, but if you follow the directions, it works!
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I've used Spaz Stix once, and it seems more durable than Alclad or Molotow. Our good friend Harry P. used to swear by it, and got incredible results with it. I've never cleared over chrome, so I'm no help there.
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9 hours ago, TransAmMike said:
So you've used Createx Hugh?
Yes, I've done 6 or 7 cars with the AutoAir variety. The first one was horrible, and I still have more to learn, but the last few have come out pretty good.
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46 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:
I've started down this Createx road and even if the Cutlass doesn't get painted with the Createx, I'm gonna try some more experimenting with it for now.
Hang in there Mike. Once you get used to this stuff I think you will like it.
A question of curiosity (gluing windows)
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
FWIW, I recently finished the same GT 40. I also painted the inside of the windows (black). I used a thin layer of epoxy in the rabbet where the window goes. The windows fit well, so just placing them in the opening worked fine. No pressure, so no squeeze out. The hardest part for me was painting silver all the little nibs on the windows that represent the screw heads.