Kit Basher
-
Posts
2,265 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Kit Basher
-
-
6 hours ago, sfhess said:
My 14 SE would shudder intermittently. Dealer wouldn't do anything about it due to backlog of other cars with worse problems. I was always frustrated with the car's hesitancy to downshift and accelerate from low speeds, the one day it would not accelerate above 40 MPG when I needed to pass another car. It was scary sometimes. At the time my commute was about 50 miles each way, mostly on mountain roads. The handling was wonderful and it was fun to drive generally but it had to go. Happy you have had good luck with yours.
You guys make me glad I bought my '13 Focus with a manual.
-
At least one online seller has it shown as "early September".
-
I know even less about Macs than I do about PCs, which is almost nothing.
It sounds like you're getting set up to make almost anything. I hope you come up with some cool products and make a lot of money!
-
19 hours ago, Greg Wann said:
Hi Kit basher,
What computer are you using to run your ALPS printer? We are having a heck of a time trying to get a computer old enough to run the MD 5500 printer I bought. My wife used to teach grade school. We had a big bunch of computers we took to Goodwill but some were still around. We hooked up one that was still around but the fourth time we turned it on it died. The others are still to new of a operating system. Brad joined a ALPS forum. Hopefully he will get some help there. I bought another 5500 that is supposed to have a operating disk and a manual in English, it is coming from Japan.
It's interesting you mentioned school computers. The one I am using came from a school surplus sale. They removed the hard drives before they sold them. I bought a new hard drive and installed Windows XP from a disc I had from an old computer. I also had to download the drivers for that brand of computer.
I'm not sure what the most recent OS that will work is, I know XP works. The biggest problem is the printer connection. The ALPS uses the old parallel port connector which most newer computers don't have. I looked at getting a parallel to USB adapter, but the reviews led me to believe they are junk.
I also had to download the ALPS drivers for XP, I found them on the internet somewhere. My ALPS is a 1300, and I don't know if the drivers I have would work for a 5500, but if you can't find the drivers, maybe I can send you what I have.
I hope there's some useful info in there somewhere.
-
I got a kick out of this, maybe you will too.
-
7 hours ago, Greg Wann said:
A laptop works ok if the hotspot on my phone is turned on. With the expectation of multiple people in the shop using computers, I would prefer a steady connection.
I did not realize you would be using multiple computers. Plus, if you have the same situation I do, where I have to use an antique desktop to run my ALPS printer, I understand why a wired connection would be better.
-
Assuming you have a wireless router and computer, have you tried taking a computer out to your shop, and accessing your wireless network? Wi-Fi carries surprisingly long distances sometimes. No cables required.
-
21 hours ago, Oldcarfan27 said:
Why not just cement some wire inside it, and then bend it where you want it?
Doh! I didn't even think of that .It would have been a great idea earlier on. I don't want to leave exposed wires on the bed, but the braces on the bed are hollow, and I could have put wires inside them before I glued on the side braces. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll keep that in mind if I have future problems.
-
Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'm a little hesitant to just wing it. I've already put a lot of time and effort into this kit. Still, I will probably do some experiments, I'll let you know how it goes.
-
4 hours ago, gman said:
It isn't an exact science, but worth a shot. You'll have to bend it beyond true, hold it for a while. The idea is to heat it to the point it takes the stresses and warp out of the plastic, and hold it there until it cools enough to hold its new and improved shape.
Most kit parts warp because they have been taken out of the mold and packed too soon (with some kit contents virtually being crammed into the box)- when they cool, rather than taking the shape they were molded in, their shape becomes distorted. There is a good chance only a portion of the part has taken on a warp, and that is exactly the area you'll want to concentrate on with hot water and reshaping.
Posting some pictures may illustrate the magnitude of the problem with your parts.
I've added some photos to my original post to show what I'm up against.
I think you are right about the cause of the warp. One of the sprues is also badly warped, but the parts are still usable.
-
3 hours ago, gman said:
With the hot water technique, you want to use water that is just hot enough to change the plastic's warp, but not hot enough to cause it to lose its shape, i.e. cooler than boiling.
Water out of the tap may be hot enough, depending on how hot your water tank is set- allow the hot water to run, stick the parts in the stream long enough to slowly bend it back into shape (and then some). As the plastic has a memory, you'll want to bend it beyond straight and hold it that way. Once it it close to where you want it, set the shape with cold water while you hold the part in that position, so it (hopefully) doesn't return to being warped. It may take a few attempts, and using less pressure to correct the warp is better than too much, where the plastic becomes stressed.
If the water out of the tap isn't hot enough, you can warm some up in a pot on the stove, but you'll want to ensure the water isn't heated enough to burn your hands while you hold the part in its desired shape. Again, you can set the corrected shape by holding it in the desired position under cold running water.
Thanks for your reply. My tap water is about 114 F. Is that hot enough? The truck bed is too large (about 5" x 7" x 4") to hold in place with my hands. I can see making a wooden buck to fit inside the bed to hold it in shape while it's heated. Is there some temperature/ duration where the plastic will lose its memory and accept its new shape?
-
I'm working on the AMT Payhauler 350. The dump bed is badly warped. I've attached most of the bracing to it, holding it in the proper shape while doing so. I had hoped the bracing might correct the warp. No such luck.
Is there any way to permanently correct the warp? I've heard about using hot water, but I have no idea about temperature or duration. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'm adding some photos to show my problem. Originally, the bed floor was humped up. By clamping the floor flat as I added the bottom braces, I was able to pretty much fix that problem, although those bottom braces are still under some stress. The result of flattening the bottom was to pull the sides in, as you can see in the photos. The side braces did not correct that problem. The side braces are not 100% glued, and with clamping and gluing might help to straighten the sides, but those braces would also be under some stress. I am hoping to remove that stress.
-
13 hours ago, Snake45 said:
Meanwhile, I really think my old Badger 350 airbrush is on its very last legs.
Have you considered sending it back to Badger? I recently sent them my old 200. It cost me $16 for return postage, and they completely rebuilt it.
-
Pearl Ex powder mixed with your clear is another option. It comes in many colors.
-
That's a masterpiece. Amazing work in every way.
-
Nicely done, Carl!
-
Here are some really poor pictures of sample boards I did of AutoAir Transparents and Candies. All are over Silver Base.
The colors are much richer and deeper in real life, but maybe this will give you some idea. The first pic is Transparents, the second Candies.
For a clear over Createx, just about anything will work. They recommend 2K clear, but I've used Duplicolor, Krylon, and Testors lacquer.
-
The Who, opened by Led Zeppelin. Columbia, MD. 1969? IIRC, The Who did songs from "Magic Bus" and "Tommy", Zep did their first album.
-
Just a word of warning. Lacquer thinner works most of the time, but not all the time. I used it in the square bottle of "Sublime" green, and it turned it into cottage cheese.
-
Thanks, Jerry!
-
Thanks, Barry!
-
Thanks, Carl!
-
Thanks, Steve!
-
Thanks, Ralph!
Thanks, Cliff!
Thanks, Scott!
2 hours ago, Funkychiken said:It is a great build, and paint job. The candy paint may end up better with fewer thinner coats, too thick, and the effect disappears.
Thanks, Atin! And thanks for the comment. I understand what you're saying. It can be a trade off between getting the depth of color that you want and losing the flake. This one is on the borderline. The flake in the gold is rather fine to start with (they call it "Sparklescent" rather than metal flake), but you can still see it in the right light.
What do you drive?
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
Now you make me glad I only wanted an SE.? I didn't have too much trouble finding one in manual. My color choices were the Metallic Red or the Metallic Blue. I went with blue.