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Kit Basher

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    Createx

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted · Edited by Kit Basher

    6 hours ago, Dave G. said:

    Well the 4030 is not clear coat as I understand it, it's an additive to the paint.

    Dave is right, the 4030 is an additive for improving flow and adhesion on hard surfaces (like plastic). Make sure you mix it thoroughly with the paint before adding any thinner, or you will get mud. (At least, that's been my experience.)  For most purposes, the 4012 is the appropriate thinner.

    Createx

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    1 hour ago, CabDriver said:

    I haven’t had luck with their primers/sealers - no matter what I tried I couldn’t get them to adhere to styrene well enough that I could safely mask over it.  

    That's good to know. I've had the sealers work OK on bare plastic, but not involving masking. It would be a bummer to pull your tape off and have your whole paint job come with it.

    Createx

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    3 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

    Another thing I forgot to ask was what about priming before Wicked Color top coat???

    Auto Air recommends priming with Auto Borne sealers. The advantage is that your primer can be a similar color to your paint. Since these colors are a bit transparent, that way you need less paint. Auto Borne comes in a variety of colors, as well as a set of primary colors with white and black, so you can mix any color you want.

    For clear, just try out your favorite clear (on a test subject), I bet it will work.

    For drying, they say do not use heat. I use a double action airbrush. Spray a mist coat of paint, then dry it with just air from the airbrush. The paint dries pretty fast, so you really don't have to put down the airbrush. Paint it, dry it, paint it, dry it, pretty soon you're done!

    Createx

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted · Edited by Kit Basher

    27 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

    Thanks Hugh, beautiful sparkely finish.  What clear did you use?

    I think that one was Duplicolor "Perfect Match" clear, but almost any clear will work.

    BTW, I think "Wicked" is also made by Createx, but might be easier to use since it is not intended for 1:1 automotive use.

    Createx

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    I have sprayed a fair amount of Auto Air, with pretty good results. There is a bit of a learning curve, and I suggest you download the "Hard Surface Application Guide" from their website. Some of their colors require adding a "balancing clear" before thinning, and others do not. I also use their thinner. They have some amazing colors, especially in the pearls and metallics. Good luck and have fun!

    This Ford was painted with one of their "Sparklescent" colors.

    DSCN1739 (2).JPG

    DSCN1746 (2).JPG

    Brush painting

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Dave G. said:

    Try taklon brushes for acrylics and see what you think. I like that for acrylic paint.

    X2. Taklon seems to give the best finish with acrylic paints, and seem to hold up better to washing with water. Also, load your brush so you can get full coverage in one stroke, if possible. For larger surfaces use a larger brush. The more you brush it, the more brush strokes you will have. Most paints will self level if left alone.

    Anyone seeing a trend where model car builders are gravitating towards model aircraft building?

    in All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures

    Posted · Edited by Kit Basher

    I have always built both. I am an airplane nut as well as a car nut. I don't build aircraft to the  level of detail and accuracy that real aircraft modellers do, just shelf models. Then again, I don't build cars to the level that real car modellers do either.

    I like having an aircraft and a car going at the same time. It gives me something to do while paint/glue is drying, and I don't get confused about what parts go with what.

    Painting tiny rivets- UPDATE

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    So, I've been doing the toothpick thing. I tried shaping a toothpick to a sort of "chisel tip", and touching the nibs at an angle. I had better control after sanding a toothpick square across, leaving a flat end about 1/32", and touching straight down onto the nibs. Because I'm working on clear parts, I had to put blue tape on the back side to help me see the rivets. I still had to move the parts around quite a bit because the rivets are really only visible when the light hits them at a certain angle. The hardest part has been getting just the right amount of paint on the toothpick. Thanks to all you kind gentlemen, I may get this task accomplished, at least to my satisfaction.

    Here are some pics, what do you guys think?

    DSCN1904.JPG

    DSCN1904 (2).JPG

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