kennb

I have been working on a way to mount windows from the outside of the model instead of the inside. I was not happy how the windows for the Tatra turned out. On the T-bird concept I have been playing with an idea that seems to work out except for the exterior finish. I think the way I am doing will work out nicely but the fitting is naturally time consuming to get it right. It has to be right since there is no room for mistakes and the glue has to be perfect. First I case the window opening normally then add a small strip around the inside but recessed. This is shown in this photo. This gives a seat for the glazing to sit in, as shown in these photos. Note that this is a test window and not the finished one I am using. I will be appling chrome to the frame and thinking about painting the seat black as well as the edge of the glass and then supergluing everything in place. Right now I just have the tape holding it in. It is very close to snap fitting the glass with no glue needed. but this would need some more tweeking to do though. Any suggestions or ideas would be helpful. Maybe someone already has done this and has a better way of doing it. KennB

You could adapt this to fit any frame set up by making the jigs to hold things in place. I would pre drill the holes and use short pins to hold things in place. It just depends on how far you want to take it. If anyone wants furthe details on the jigs or how to make them I can post more information. KennB

A few pictures to give you some idea where we are heading with this KennB

Rear deck: Tools required: Exacto knife, ruler, files, pencil, and wood ruler. We are going to fill in between the rear outside fenders. The lights will be put in after this step. It should be about 2 ¼” between. Cut a piece of plastic that wide and about 4” long, all the parts will be cut from that. For the upper part cut a piece 7/8” long and 2 ¼” wide. Test fit it and file the edges to have a clean fit. Look at the pictures and the template to see approximate location. Then tack glue in place. Just a few spots in case you have to adjust it. Look at the model and mark out a gentle curve as shown. You will need two pieces with that curve. One is I/2” long and one is ¼” long, both 2 ¼” wide. Then cut two straight pieces ¼” wide and 2 ¼” wide. That forms the built in bumper and lower valance. You can use the template to guild how they go together. This is tricky since you will have to bend one piece to match the curve. I hope this makes sense. Glue the whole thing together and to the inside of the fenders. We will take care of the light flares and housing next time along with some more work on the front. If you have any questions feel free to contact me. You can still get the drawings form me in scale. KennB

I havent forgotten this one. Will have the updates tonight for it. I have the frame almost done and have been working on the interior.

I touched up the red last night. The one thing about the silver is that it takes forever to set up and is still kinda soft. For the next one I will have to find another silver. The interior is almost finished. I am not getting to carried awaysince it will only be seen through the windows. Needs the floor covering and appliances painted yet. I found a correct plate for it on the net,,1946 trailer plate. KennB

Just did some front window treatment, puttz with some cleanng up and settled on the door. I like the porthole treatment even though the origional has no windows in the door. KennB

I have not done a lot on this one but I did finally settle on the hub caps and have them made up. Now I can finish the wheels and frame, Since it is a curbside it will be very simple. KennB

I have learned one thing.Never paint a whole body chrome It comes out nice but is very fragile and soft. My taping job was not great and have some touch up to do. It will be fine when I am finished. I need to get better tape to do two colors. But it is all I had on hand at the moment. KennB

A diorama sounds fun, but i would like to have a nice vintage looking sign. I remember that in "The Last Starfighter" they had that sign in the opening scenes and thought that might be the type I am wanting. Simple net search and ...........nothing,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,nada,,,,,,,,,,,,,trailer court signs, never heard of them....................mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...................................image search,,,,web search,,,,,,,,vintage camper courts............a total void......oh well. KennB Supose now I am going to find some weird pickup to make a camper for

I found this picture on the net last night and just had to do it. I was going to go with yelloe but Spouse says it has to be pink. Will still do all the doo dads with it. It is not any one camper. I am adding a few of the Shasta special items inside. I know it is tight but what can you do in 10 feet, still have the bed in the back and the details outside. Not totally sure how far I will go with the jellouse (sp) windows. BTW: started about 10 this morning so it isnt that difficult a build. A week end project. it is all simple straight cuts so would be good project for first time scratch building. KennB Gotta love the campers

If you can get the shapes to start with it would be an easy build and a lot more accurate. It would also look nicer In setting this up for larger frames it would sure save a lot of frustration. You could easily make accessories to fit exactly what you need to hold down major members. Kenn Note: I heat the pins for the initial hole,,then they go through the plastic real easy

It is going to primer today, I am all finish with details and ready for color..(not telling yet). The interior paneling is in place as are lights in the ceiling. This has been a fun project and think I might do a few more. KennB

Interior is esentially finished and ready for paint. Need to finish the window frames ont he exterior and a few small details and it is ready for paint too. KennB Thanks for the comments and looking.

finding this is working nicely. KennB

I have been working on the interior cabnitry and appliances. The reffer face is by the wheel. It will be pink with chrome hardware as will the cook top and sink. The rest is all birch which will be painted and wood grained. I have 40'ish vinyl for the floors. Thanks for all the comments and looking KennB

This is the "final" primer. Polishing it to get it ready for the caster. I will still find some places that need attention. I use 600 wet/dry lightly then tooth paste for the polish. KennB

Now to figure out how to use this thing. This is next to what I was using. I have started the T-Bird frame. The siderails are in place with an I beam in front to line things up. I made up some holders for the rear of the frame and side jigs slide on to the I beams to hold the sides in place and square. The pins are in place of bolts to hold the jigs in place. I can remove the parts and they go back to exaclty the same place each time. It is better thn what I had been usign but not wure if it is "IT". KennB

I picked up a magazine last night that had some information on making frmaes for 1:1. Since I make all my own frames I felt it would be good to read. I noted that it was all set up on a movable frame jig and held in place by a variety of fixtures and clamps, something I wish i had to make my frames. After looking at it more It was just some I beams in different directions that were movable and clamped or pinned in place. The fixtures looked like they were made for this project. meaning that each different frame had fixtures to match what they wanted. the main rack would keep everything in place and square. mmmmmmmmm. BY know you all know where this is heading. Yup...here it is You have the main I beams (1/4" cut to width and length glued together) on a base that is 3.5" x 8". The long beams are 2" o.c. the short beams can be any length, mine are at this time 3.5". I can make longer as required. Then I made them so they can slide along the rack. I will drill holes for pins as I need them to hold in place. I made a few ficture samples that can be made as needed for any special need. Now I can set my frames up quickly and square each time with out guess work. A scale can be added to the base if you want or on the long rails to make things realy simple. KennB

So you got the primer on. Big deal. It will take as long to finish the project from here as it took to get here, unless you have taken care along the way. Finishing your model starts when you take it out of the box. Let’s take a look at what I have learned along the way. My Tatra looked good. I sanded and sanded and sanded. My Italia I tried a new filler. And found it reacts with water, badly. The T-Bird I am using practically no filler, but changed to Squadron,(that is what Carrs had). Let’s compare a few aspects of finishing. Prior to filler file, sand, sand, sand. Use the filler sparingly. Take a look at the comparison between the two models, you will see the difference. Granted I don’t take a lot of time to start with but as I make more I get better at putting them together so I need less filler. Once the primer in on take a critical look at what you have after the initial sanding. There are high spots, low spots, dimples and pits. If you don’t fix these now they will show up on the final product. Just because you sand over a spot does not mean it is done. Use a magnifying glass if you have to. I use 3x reading glasses to work on my models. Look at the photos again to see things to look for and to fix at this point, not after the first coat of color. Also look at the inside of your model. Is it a mess or at least nicely smoothed out at least ready for primer, even if you leave it raw. Take pride all the way through your model, not just get it done for the next one. I strive to make each one better than the last. I learn new things, new methods, and just plain through trial and error, gain skill it doing things. Have fun and thank you for looking and commenting KennB

Just afew photos with the interio in place. I also redid the rear window to give it the reverse curve that is signature in this trailer, KennB

I have the body stratened around on this one now and have it ready for final primer and polishing for the caster. I am redoin the fornt steering and A frames on this. I will be dong the paint work on the frame and inishing the interior now. KennB

I totally sanded things down and rehilled some parts o the body. There were some pinholes and other troublesome areas. I used the new squadron filler. so far it is working nice. I am ready for final snding and paint on this one now. KennB

Thank you for the piccys. It is close to the 1946. The older onesw and even newer ones ha rund windows which give it a distinctive flavor. The interior you show is very close to wha I am doing on this one. As a side note I would be intereswted in making some masters for casting on these. I would like to have some good accurate scale drawings for any kind of vintage to start with. I want to make sure that tings are in the correct scale. What i do is close, I think. I know the trailer is undersize but that was very intentional since i felt it was too bulky . I know wish I did it in the little larger format. KennB

Hood and roof install: Tools needed: Exacto knife, wood ruler, needle nose pliers, and liquid glue. Look at the diagram for details on bending. You will need two small pieces of plastic cut. One 2 3/8th “ x 3” for the hood and one about 2” x 1 3/4th”for the roof. This one may need to be a little wider so that it reaches each rear pillar. Starting with the hood , make the cut for the windshield location. This end will need a gentle overall bend to match the inside former. You can do this by hand or with the pliers. The front part of the hood is a little more complicated with several bends needed with the pliers take your time and look at the photos to see how this will fit in place. Put in place and tape the hood to its location and glue from the inside. You may need to hold it in place tightly with your fingers until the glue sets up a little, maybe one minute. The roof panel will need to have the bend from side to side to conform with the rear area. You will lay this over that to make two layers. Glue this in place. If you have questions on this let me know so I can provide more details in as this is not shown yet in the model. You will also want to cut two pieces 3/8th” wide and 7” long (about) for the rocker panel. Bend the length as we did on the sides and glue in place lining up with the space between the wheel wells, the rear will hang lower and the wheel well for the rear will be cut out after this drys. Do not try to start filing anything at this point, we will do that later. Next installment will be the rear deck. I will have some drawings to work from since there are a lot of small parts to cut. Time for this procedure should be less than one hour to 1 and half hours. If you spend more time doing any of the items I have shown do not worry about it. My times are a general guide and may be more or less. I double to triple the time it takes me. Have fun and thank you for looking and comments. Remember if you have any questions or need further details or explainations just ask and I will provide more detail. KennB