DirtModeler
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Posts posted by DirtModeler
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They had a legends race years back at Portland International Raceway with a bunch of different road course cars of different eras. they had a Cheetah there, and it looked like it handled pretty awfully, the driver could barely keep it on the track.
It's funny though because of all the cars that were there and looked fast.. towards the end of the race Parker Johnstone pulled out his Camel Light GT Prototype and absolutely stomped every car on the track. It's pretty insane how much faster that car was. I can't imagine how fast the full GT prototypes were in the 1980's.
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I think for those to be done right, they'd need to be machined. I think the black version is the coolest thing going in drag racing right now. I've stared at them many-a-time and can't figure out a way to do them where painting them wouldn't be a nightmare trying to get the little aluminum areas to look correct.
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As far as buying a used airbrush. if you stick with the big 3 (Iwata, Paasche, Badger), you should be fine with a used one. You might have to spend some time cleaning and lubing it.. maybe buying a new needle.. but My Iwata is 15 years old and still runs like the day i got it..
I've heard similar claims from users of the other big 3 airbrush mfg's.
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A lot of people seem to prefer gravity feed over siphon feed. I'm the opposite. I get too into what i'm painting with a gravity feed and end up dumping paint out of the cup.. i did it more then once..
Now i only use siphon feeds.. i can turn the airbrush upside down and it has little effect on what i'm spraying.
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Some more work on the hubs tonight. Did a test of one way of doing the rotors. Painted them with Metalizer Exhaust, then after it dried sanded back to the stainless steel on the rotor's side.
I'm doing some in a test of a rusting agent, but it has to cure overnight, hope to have an example of how they look tomorrow.
the 3D printed hub itself is accurate, though has a rough finish, still wish i can find a way to solve it.
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I finally got my Sherline setup. Bought a whole kit with all the tooling,rotary table etc. Can't wait to get it all operational, very excited.
Model 4400 lathe and model 2000 Mill
Who is jealous of YOUR take for the day??
Nice!
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I was just looking for other pictures of it..
WTF is with Jeep copying the Subaru Crosstrek?
Notice any similarities?
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I like it, it looks a heck of a lot better then the new cherokee with the squinting headlights.
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Of course, unless one is looking at say, a Pocher kit, or a very high-end 1:43 scaler, most of the model car kits we buy and build are created down to a certain common denominator. That can, and often is, price, or as most kits I've ever experienced, designed to appeal to the greatest number of pairs of hands. The latter practically dictates some compromises, so correctly scaled miniature spring shackles fall right in there or so it seems to me.
Art
Funny you should mention Pocher, i was just looking at theirs. Holy Cow, they are nice.. and only $140
http://www.scaleautoworks.com/mmAlfaSprings.html
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I had thought there were a few Photoetched leaf spring kits out there, but i only see a shackle kit by MCG for $8 alone...
Hmm.. maybe i'll look into it.
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They do look better after a wet sand, but still not perfect. I'm going to call the hubs good though. I have a bunch more to finish up.
I put the brake rotors together and gave them a coat of etching primer.
My goal with these is to give them a raced a few times look to them. I purchased a rusting agent, and am going to try it out on the brake rotors.
I'm going to try rusting the inside of the rotor's fins, then polishing/sanding back on the edge of the rotor to the stainless steel. If it works, it should look pretty realistic.
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Love everything about that build! I just pray my truck project comes out half that nice!
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The cars are nice, for sure.. but they are 1:5th scale.
That's gigantic.
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Wow, that is awesome stuff! Man I love it
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An update on the Dirt Modeler 4-link brackets. I will have some sooner. In about a month.
It was my intention to put them on a new plate, but in looking closer at the plate they reside on, there are enough of them on each plate to warrant just having the original plate re-ran.
I'll have about 120ea of them in about one month, give or take.
If you're in more of a hurry, Futtratraction's parts have been very well received by a lot of modelers and will work just as well.
hope this helps.
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With a little bit of help, i'd like to put together an ongoing Hall of Fame to showcase builds that have used Dirt Modeler parts in a modeling competition.
Any awarded placement is welcome.
I'd love to celebrate and document how our parts have been used in builds around the world.
Just send a few photos, the name of the competition, and any information you'd like to share about the build.
I'll compile this all into a nice photo album and have an ongoing showcase online.
I think it would be neat.
Please send to michael@dirtmodeler.com
I appreciate your time.
thanks.
- M
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Waiting for my first subscription issue in the mail! can't wait till the mailman starts bringing me them.
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Try Futtrratraction: http://www.futurattraction.com/7.html
I offer a set too, but unfortunately am out of the 1:24/25 scale until around around May. I'm working on a new plate, and will have a new batch of them made on the new plate in greater quantities.
I have two items that would work for the rear end mounts, but nothing for the chassis side to fit a tube chassis at the moment without modifications.
http://www.dirtmodeler.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=378
http://www.dirtmodeler.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=372&search=quartermax
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That's a bummer it is corroding. I wonder if they used a reactive metal to make it out of, or did some flux or something get spilled on it some time ago, and not cleaned up enough.
I'd coat it with something after you are done. If it corroded once, it may corrode again, though the second time will be on your model.
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Plus, remember. Danica is 28th in points after Bristol, which means there are ~20 drivers who have done WORSE then her so far this year.
If Danica is THAT bad, what does that say for the 20 other drivers?
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I'll repaint the hubs tonight, yesterday i wet sanded them with 1000 grit to hopefully get rid of the print lines
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My drag truck project stalled for a moment while i sort out the tire issue, so i thought i'd get back to this long standing project and see if i can't get it finished.
This project has changed over the years because i keep changing some of the components out with newer stuff.
I've been messing around with the new-ish Frankland Hubs and looking at how they go together, how they look, etc.
The funny thing about macro photography is, it shows you things you can't even see with your naked eye.
The hubs in person look a lot smoother.
I guess i'll do some more sanding on them before calling them good.
Painted with Testors Metalizer Buffing Magnesium.
At the same time, i've been tweaking the design of the old spindles. The original ones were meant to mount the hubs with a 0-80 socket head screw. To use the new hubs, i replaced the nut insert with some round tube with a metal pin soldered into it.
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Crazy awesome Clay! Looks fantastic.
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Biggest issue I see!!!! Nothing like the sound of internal combustion!!!!
I agree with you there. Racing wouldn't be racing without the roar of the motors.
Electric racing (though it may end up being faster in the end), will be boring.. it will be like watching slot cars in full scale.
69 Chevelle SS Pro Mod WIP (Updated 3.26.14)
in WIP: Drag Racing Models
Posted · Edited by DirtModeler
Just make sure you use a reliable caster, that's WAYYY too much work to risk to a sketchy caster. I've seen too many of them vanish over the years, and i'd hate for that master to vanish.
(p.s. my message following Mooneyzs was in no way intended to imply Greg Wann isn't a reliable caster, i just meant use a reliable caster in general)