mrm

I guess I have failed also. My downfall was getting a little too ambicious about my build. I also ran into a series of problems. I found out really late in the build that I have forgotten to paint a couple of parts and also once I fit everything together I found out that the steering was not going to work and there is quite abit more now that will need scratch building. Either way, I am glad I did this as it was great fun and inspirational. Congrats to everyone who participated and especially to the ones who managed to finish in time.

Sweeeeeeeeeet. I love shiny.

Simply fantastic builds. And all this in just a year... Am I the only one who feels like there are traces of Alclad obsession? No wonder John has perfected its use.

Plain cool. Very nice and clean.

Really nice. I love the look of it. What kit is this?

Is this a contest?! I thought it was just bunch of crazy model guys having fun......

I absolutely love the model. It is greatly done and full of character, but a comment like this without the other competitors shown is just ignorant.

Wow !!! Everyone is moving along great. Last night I got lost ib cyberspace, searching for reference pictures for my shotgun setup and lost a lot of time. Got done with the clear coat at 4:30am. I have everything set up to finish this build tonight, but what worries me is if the clear would be fully cured. It is polyurethane, but still. Usually I give it 72hours before I hit it with wax or sandpaper. Really great job everyone. See you again at the finish line.

The floor received some flocking and a set of PE pedals. the shifter received a nice red eye. The dash was painted (needed touch up at the time of picture but is fixed now) the PE panel included some black gsuges printed on clear acetate, but it looked just like black circles, so I got some printed on white paper that I cut one by one to place the way I would want them in my car. The DM steering wheel received some clear red wash to make the detail pop up and some PE keys and keychain are prepared to hang from the PE starter in the steering column. The side interior panels are painted too and already received some PE hardware, but I did not take pictures yet. Here is the body and frame right before I painted them the secont time

My plan was to have the clear coat curing right now, but because I noticed some uneven spots that miraculously changed color while wet sanding the paint earlier today, I had to respray the whole thing. So now while I am waiting for it to dry AGAIN, I have time to post some pictures I took earlier during the build. First the body received an extended tail in the form of a nice smooth roll pan together with the inner fenders from a Revell '32 5 window The frame got its horns cut off, a crossmember from the 5 window and scratchbuilt engine mounts. Also the tranny support was moved foreward The dash was filled A new rear end was made from some styrene rod, the 5 window shock mounts, quickchange from the Red Baron and the the frontmost end cut off from the 9" from the 5 window. The radius rods were taken from a Testors metal model T and were molded in the back of the shock mounts. The whole thing later got stripped from the chrome and received my first attempt at using Alclad

My frame got modified, engine mounts scratch built and tranny mount moved foreward. Body got its door lines scraped and it received inner fenders from the 5window and also a nice rolled pan in the rear. The dash was filled, so it is smooth for the PE panel. Interior panels are modified to fit the different body. The 32 rear end was cut up and combined with the Quickchange from the Red Baron and some radius rords from a diecast Tbucket. Frame and body are primered and the engine and interior did receive a coat of paint. I am pleading for some help with the wiring/plumbing of the engine. More specific the carburators. Any references would be greatly appreciated. Even if someone can tell me what carburators are represented supposedly on that engine, so I can do some research for myself. Thanks in advance.

So, do we have to post WIP pics on here?

Here is my project. Really simple concept, at least on paper. A resin chopped Vicky, sitting on a chassis from AMT Phantom vicky, modified to have the Revell '32 front axle and rear end. Rear end modified to be a quickchange unit. The Boss 429 engine from Revell's '70 Mustang spinning the Willys wheels and tires. Comfort provided by the Pantom Vicky. The only question is about the rules. Do we show progress and if we do, do we have to do it in this thread or as a separated one? Pop the Red Bulls guys.....

I can build three kits in a day, but the question is with what result?! I think that building a really good model in 3 days is pushing it, but I will try it. The only problem is curing time for putty, paint etc.

Beyond cool............that is all I can say........... .....ohhhh..and what about that wild looking thing in the background that looks like a primered modern interpretation of the a-la cart

I love it. Really nice. I love the gold paint, the yellow chrome not so much, but a great looking hot rod.

I was born on Frideay the 13th, so I just had to participate in this. I have a bunch of projects waiting to get started for my big Deuce challenge to myself, so I will need Dr Cranky's vote on my build. a) '32 5 window full fendered b )'32 Vicky fenderless street machine c) '32 fenderless woody vert a.k.a. CALIFORNICATION Dr Cranky, please take your pick, so I can brake out the superglue. LOL

I am in also. In case no one has guessed it, yes I'll go for another '32 Ford.

So here is the roof after some putty with a new character line added. It is superglued on top of the putty, which is irrelevant as it will have filler all around it and on top of it. It is marely a guyde line to keep the shape in check.

Here is a quick mockup of the whole thing. I have not decided on wheels yet, but the ride will be adjusted for sure. Because of the frame modifications, now the wheels sit somewhat more inwards in the fenders, which needs to be fixed. Also the front needs to be brought down a little. But there is a lot more work on the chassis and fenders that needs to be done before that. The model will have white wall tires for sure.

Other than the yellow parts, everything else on this is from some sort of '32 Ford kit or will be scratchbuild. The only aftermarket item (other than the usual detail wires, grilles etc.) will eventually be a coffin riding in the back, which will most likely come from Jimmy Flintstone.

Like it did not look cool enough in bare plastic, you had to add paint too? Can't wait to see this thing finished. By far my favorite project on here.

This is another one of my endless Deuce projects and it is ..........a hearse. A hot rodded one at that. I don't remember what gave me the idea, but it has been in my head for a while now. As a matter of fact it was already in my head last June in Kanzas, where I did not see Dorothy, but I got me a Boothhill Express showrod in a gallon ziplock bag for something like $10. It was exactly what I had in mind for the project. The other part I needed was the Dan Fink Speedwagon, which I already had a couple of from evilbay. The only setback was, that I found out that the supposedely whole kit of the Boothill express was missing its roof. Well styrene sheet it was. Since I now had a much longer body, I needed to stretch the frame. I decided to use two separate fromes cut at different places for the job (sometimes it seems like I have an unlimited supplies of '32 parts accumulated over the years before I even gave myself a break from the hobby) Looking at all the issues that would have caused with the cross members etc. I decided to use just the front crossmember and the one at the very back. So basically I had to scratchbuild the frame with some styrene tubing . I decided to go fullfendered as I have a vision of a hot rodded but elegant hearse. That meant that not only the fenders had to be stretched, but also the running boards now had to be filled to become smooth. To locate the first crossmember made, on which the rear suspention is going to be, I temporarily glead the rear radius rods to the original kit cross member and to the rear end. This way I had the exact geometry that I needed laid infront of me. Pretty much the same principal was used for the tranny mounting point and another crossmember further to the front. Then everything was glued together by some design of mine. This is pretty much what the new stretched chassis looks like as of now. It still needs some more work and attachment brackets and mounts for the suspention. Thank you for looking and stay tuned.

So I sprayed the black on the top part of the body and was watching it dry and two new ideas hopped in my head. The first was to make the thing full fendered. That sounded good and it will be done, but it is going to be a separate project to create a sister car. The second idea was not really new, but ratter remembering an idea from the day I laid eyes on this kit for the first time. The model will look awesome with a top on, but the top of the model is somewhat not suiting the car. Too round and bubbly. It will probably look cool on a Prowler Phaeton, but not on a cool angular '32. So I have always manted to make a proper roof that suits the car. That time has come I guess. Anyway, the original roof with tape marking the line for the first cut. It is important to keep the front edge of the original roof as it is a perfect mating surface for the split windshield. In order to maintain all original proportions and angles, a "spine" is glued in the middle of the cutout, before the sides are cut Then after the sides are cut out and replaced by square styrene rods, thin sheet of styrene is used to create the new roof in two halfs I want a particular shape I saw as a scetch somewhere, which is kind of complicated as it had a a raised edge in the center, which fades away towards the back which is squarish but looks kind of round on top. I know, I am terrible at describing it, but I have the vision in my head how to do it and when I am done with it, you will see what I mean (if it goes according to plan ofcourse) Here is some strips added and a pool of hardened superglue to prevent the top from sagging from the putty. Thank you for looking

Wow, that grille!!!!