mrm

I have not shafted anyone. I had to drop everything and literally fly over over to Europe on a family emergency. I just got back this past weekend and first thing I did was to send the tires over. You should have them any day now.

Very interesting project. There have been quite few 308/328 restomods in 1/1 lately. Few of them were featured in Forza Magazine. I believe someone stuffed an F40 motor sideways in one and there was one with a 360 Modena V8 in it. I can't wait to see what you make of it, as I believe you're off to a very good start.

Nice start. Just FYI, the Dino did not have a frunk. Yes there is the compartment with the spare in the front, but the car actually had a normal decent size trunk, in the rear, behind the engine compartment. It opened on it's own too. Same goes for the all the 308 models, but with them the compartment accessible under the same hood as the engine. Lamborghini Countaches also had a trunk with its own lid behind the engine compartment. Looking at what you have done to the front compartment, seems really easy to add the brake lines to the booster, which will add great detail.

In your particular case, you would be doing yourself a huge favor by using the grey Tamiya primer. Trust me on that one. Dries completely different, hardens differently, sand differently and seals completely differently. If I was using yellow Tamiya paint, then I would spray a thin coat of white primer ON TOP of the grey one, just to make the color pop. But in your case it is unnecessary. Thank you for the Ascona recommendation. Never even heard of any kit of any Ascona ever been made. Ours was a four door and I believe the next generation after the one you sent a link to, so no go. But still, thank you for looking it up. And "a professional model builder told me..." always makes me chuckle. A very well known "professional model builder", who made a small fortune painting model bodies for few different crowds, once publicly claimed that you can't use 2K clear on plastic models or over acrilics because it would eat them. And everyone who has ever used 2K clear knows that's not true. I spend 5 years making a living building replicas of rich people's 1:1 exotic car collections. I still could never bring myself saying that I was a professional model builder without laughing. No. I just found a way to make money from my hobby for a while. And then I got burned out and didn't want to see a model for quite a while. But anyway... I understand the challenges this model poses and now I am even more curious to see how it will turn out. Sounds like a lot of precision masking would need to be involved.

This is something different on here for sure. And very cool to see. Few things puzzle me in your comments and maybe I am not understanding/missing something. First, what is the problem with assembling the body and making it one whole part, just like in any other kit. And if that is your intention, why would that create any issues with painting it? The other part involves the paints you are contemplating using. I would take Tamiya paint over Rust-Oleum any given day, any time. The only reason I would ever use Rust-Oleum paint is if it gives me a given color readily available. It seems you are going with the Tamiya color, as you say it suits your better. Than why in the blue heavens would you not go with Tamiya Primer. The Tamiya grey primer comes second to none in the hobby. It is amazing stuff, which especially in your project size, you can shoot straight from the can with amazing results. Most of the time it would hold up to most automotive paint, but that is irrelevant, as you are using Tamiya paint. Now having said that, I am talking about their grey primer, not the "fine" white one, which I hate with a passion. Anyway, great project and a very cool back story. I wish I could build a model of the car my dad thought me no and I drove on the day I got my license. But nobody makes a kit of an Opel Ascona.

Holly Molly! That fuel tank is a model by itself. I truly enjoy your work and will definitely follow.

I can get you the tires, no problem. I am just wondering, why four? If you have the idea to use them at the front too, they would just not look right IMO.

Hi gang. I am looking for a couple of Ferraris from Revell. The first one was all over the internet until not so far back, but now I seem to have hard time finding one. It is the Ferrari 599 GTO. (Not to be mistaken with the 599 Fiorano) it was issued by Revell and Revell of Germany The other one is the open roof variant of the same car. The Ferrari 599 SA Aperta. I think that one was only issued by Revell of Germany. I don't think I would have any kit of value to trade for it, but I can always pay for it or trade parts, which I have in abundance. Thank you for your time. Mozzi

Thanks for the photos. It was a really cool show last year and I really wanted to go last weekend, but I had a conflict of schedules, so I couldn't make it. Looks like there were some great models on display. P.S. And just to add - you must have really, really liked that blue Pontiac. 😁

Looking good. I have a couple of these pick ups, but the previous release of the kit. I've been meaning to get one done. However, I've made a promise - no new projects before the ones posted as started on here get complete. So, meanwhile I will follow and enjoy what you do with this kit. The engine looks fantastic by the way.

Thank you Jason. My Huayra was the very first Aoshima kit I built. A lot learned from that experience. Some of their kits can be quite intimidating and the Huayra is the perfect example. In the particular case of Pagani cars, this feeling is even stronger, since a lot of people don't even know what these cars are. But these are some great kits, with great detail, which can be turned into jewels with some effort. I say get yourself one of these and build along. 🤠

My biggest gripe with this kit, which is more like puzzlement, are the doors. They are pretty much a simple two part deal - inner and outer skins. They are molded as separate pieces, but there is not even a mention how to attach them. Even if you would like to glue them open, which I guess is the option the kit is giving you, there is no mention on how to do that. No attachment points, no locator pins or marks of any sort. I have always been a firm believer that sometimes even the most complicated problems can have a simple solution. So I set to make the doors functional while my engine cover paint is curing. After some research, I noticed how the Zondas door rotates in a cool way into the wheel opening and a light went on in my head. A simple pivot hinge just like on the pivot doors in those multimillion dollar homes they show on TV. So I drilled into the floor plate, right where I thought my pivot point should be. A piece of music wire (available in any Hobby Lobby) was treaded in a piece of aluminum tubing (also from HL). Now, because the hole I drilled to locate the music wire was right at the corner of the monocoque, it had to be enlarged for the aluminum tubing with a bead reamer from the same store. Then the "hinge" bottom half was inserted in the hole and into position. Once happy with its angles it was superglued in place... ...and trimmed to length. Next, another piece of tubing was cut to size... ...and inserted over the wire, effectively becoming the "upper hinge". In order for the upper tubing to make better contact with the door, some material had to be grind off to make the surface less curved on the inside of the door. In order to make sure that everything would line up perfectly when assembled, I had to line up all the body pieces and hold everything together in place with masking tape, before I could glue the door. Then, when I made sure everything works together as it should, I taped the door and glued it to the upper tubing with superglue. So far everything works together perfect. It still needs a little bit of sanding and finagling here and there to make it 100%, but I am more than happy with the initial result. Here you can kinda see how the door opens on the real thing. It kinda swivels into the wheel well. I think I replicated that effect pretty well. Both doors are now functional. And line up pretty darn good. I'm happy. Tomorrow back to the engine. I did not clear coat it, because I want to do all the carbon fiber on the cover, apply the emblems and then I'll clear it and seal everything all together. Also i have to figure how to hinge the rear hood, so I can actually start prepping for paint. hanks for looking and stay tuned...

Well, first of all, let me say that I hope by posting my progress on here I could motivate more people to built this kit. Because I know there are quite few people out there that have one, but for one reason or another never build them. The other "version" of the kit is the Zonda F, which is by all means is a completely different car. Other than the monocoque, I believe every other part on the real car and on that kit is different from the Zonda S (which I'm building). Then came the Huayra, which I finished just a couple of weeks back. Then there is the Huayra Pachetto Tempesta, which is just Aoshima milking their Huayra kit, as it has just different wheels, front spliter and two additional pieces for the diffuser.

I couldn't (or rather I didn't want to) go much further with the engine before painting the cover. That part has been seen on cars in different variations. From all silver to all carbon fiber. Most often it is either silver with carbon on each side... ...or all carbon: in some rare occasions however, customers asked for the center section to be color matched to the body color of their car. This last option is what I would've been going for, had I the means to order one of these exotic beasts. I would love me some color on my engine. So I had some painting to do, before I could move forward. A lot more work that what it sounds. Here I will open the can of worms labeled "What Should or Should NOT Be Used on Plastic Model Kits", just a little bit. I love using automotive paint, which is definitely NOT meant for plastic model kits. Being designed for real cars it has properties that would give it qualities necessary for both the scale of projects and the necessary durability. In this case It is even more complicated, because it is an original Ferrari tri-coat. It is called Giallo Modena Triplo Strati Pearl. When I got it some years ago, it was impossible to get the code for it and even my local Ferrari dealership could not get it. It happened so, that the owner of my local PPG Automotive store had a very close relationship with some big wig, who made a call and got him the formulae, so he could mix me half a pint from each of the two colors necessary to achieve the finish. On the real Ferraris this was sometimes a $90 000 option. I got mine for $50. Not bad for a full pint of special paint. Our days I see this color offered by some companies (I'm not gonna mention names) who made a business of selling "exact match" colors, which are nothing more than the paint any reputable automotive paint store can mix for you, then thinned down and repackaged in 2oz bottles. Anywhooo... For the PPG paint not to eat the plastic of the kit, I had to prime it first. Just like you would have to do with any of those cottage industry "model" paints. I have watched countless videos and debates on how this paint or that paint interacted with the plastic of this manufacturer or that manufacturer. And I am tired of listening how when it worked out, I just "got lucky" or whatever. The solution is more time consuming and a little bit more labor intensive, but works without an issue. Every single time, 100% success rate. I use automotive 2K grey primer. It mixes 4:1 with the exact same fast activator I use for the 2K clear coat I buy. For $40 you get pretty much a lifetime supply of primer that would seal against anything. But about all that, maybe later on, when I paint the body. So: a coat of 2K primer (not fun to clean your airbrush afterwords) > base coat of white > first stage of the yellow > second stage of the yellow, which is like an opaque pearl > clear coat (not done that yet). While the engine had to have some primer on it, I figured out "why not put some primer on most of the body parts too?" Here I went completely against the grain in many different ways. First, I assembled a lot of parts completely out of order. I glued the interior tub to the chassis plate, then the side lower body panels to the interior tub, because on the real car that is all a one piece monocoque. I did not want the seams between the parts visible on the finished model and I wanted everything to line up properly and be very well secured, without the potential to make a mess. This kit is notorious (according to some it goes for most if not all Aoshima kits) with fitment issues and people complain that it is impossible to assemble it with a good fit where everything lines up properly. That is strange, because when first dryfitting the kit, everything lines up perfect. So I glued the rear bumper assembly, the rear grille and monocoque to the chassis plate to assure that everything aligns the way it should. Then I did another crazy thing. I sprayed some of the interior color on, before anything else. Main reason is that I love using another great automotive product, not meant for model cars. SEM interior paint. This stuff is amazing. It comes in an endless assortment of colors and it is designed to spray over your interior panels to change their color. So it will stick and hold to pretty much anything. And it will have the perfect leather/vinyl finish and shine. Here is the tricky part. It does not like other paint. This is the only paint I have ever seen attack 2K clear coat! Funny enough, it does not attack or craze plastic. But it will handle pretty much any paint over it. So, I spray it straight on the plastic, before any other primer or paint. This is why some of the areas I needed tan leather, were painted very first thing. I would not recommend doing it this way, unless you are very confident in your masking skills. After my tan parts were masked off, my chassis base was sprayed with the 2K primer. It was sandable in two hours.

Thanks guys. I will take it easy on this one, without rushing. one step at a time. I have given myself a deadline of my birthday, which is in November. Also made a promise of no new projects, before the ones started on here have been completed.

I started from the AMG V12 that the car is built around. The genius of Pagani was that this was an amazing powerplant, which was available in quite few different Mercedes Benz Models. Where it gets tricky when building a model, trying to replicate one of the 16 Zonda S cars made is that some of them started with the regular 7.0 motor, but quite few were constantly been upgraded, some receiving the 7.3L AMG V12 and some pretty much being completely transformed to the next generation Zonda F. Anyway...The kit comes with a 7.0L motor, which visually is identical with the 7.3L. These are the parts of the engine. The main part of the engine has been already assembled. Those silver pieces on each side are actually one piece on the real car and represent the aluminum plenum, that sits on top of the heads, leaving the sprak plug cables visible between the runners. The exhaust manifolds actually do look this way on the real thing. It is not just a generic shape that thrown in the kit. The main engine assembly consist of eight parts and in a typical japanese kit style, has no visible seams once assembled. The transmission was painted with a mix of Tamiya's champagne gold and bare airframe silver. The block got just bare airframe silver and the valve covers received buffing aluminum plate metallizer. I did not pick out the spark plug "dots" on the heads or attempt to make the little square parts that go on top of them. Not going to wire them either, as it would be totally in vain. Pagani went to great lengths to hide as much of the wiring and plumbing of the car. On the real thing you have a light aluminum plenum with 12 runners, sitting rather flat on top of the motor, with a throttle body on each side. In a regular MB car the fit was tight, to say the least. Which is why the plenum sits so low. Perfect for use in a low to the ground supercar. In the kit, there is a cover going over the whole motor, which hides everything underneath. This is accurate, except on the real thing, Pagani actually had carbon fiber covers for each side, which hid the wires and closed the space between the runners and a separate cover in the middle, which actually hid a lot of the plumbing of the motor. Very early production cars had air intakes sucking air from under the car, going to the throttle bodies via some ducts. The kit includes the carbon fiber air box, that all cars were updated with later on. This airbox has become one of the signature features on any Pagani car to this day. And this is where I am at...

Thank you Doc.

It's interesting that so many people, especially in the model kit community, are not familiar with these cars. Pagani has achieved somewhat of a cult status in the automotive industry and is the wet dream of any car spotter. Horacio Pagani is with Argentinian descent and later immigrates in Italy. His story is truly remarkable. He was one of the pioneers in carbon fiber application in the production automotive industry, not only as a high performance material, but also as an aesthetic element. He was the supplier of carbon parts to the likes of Ferrari and Lamborghini. He also worked for Lamborghini and is accredited with the design update of the Countach for Lamborghini's 25th anniversary. He always dreamt of making his own car and started working on sketches and ideas since the late '80s. When Lamborghini was ready to replace the Countach with what eventually became the Diablo, Horacio was asked to design it. His proposal was designed around a V12 rear engined chassis, but was turned down. Marcello Gandini from the Bertone Group's design was chosen instead. This put Horacio Pagani on a crossroads of a sort, where he had to chose, to continue working for Lamborghini or put everything he had on the line and persue his dream of making his own car. With advice from his wife, he chose the latter. And in 1999, he shocked the world, when he introduced the Pagani Zonda. It was built almost entirely from carbon fiber, with aluminum tube subframes front and aft of the composite monocoque. Because his original design was created around Lamborghini's V12, Pagani decided to put in it a Mercedes Benz handbuilt AMG V12, as it had identical dimensions, but was also less expensive, more reliable and much easier serviceable in any Mercedes Benz dealership. Only 3 of these cars were built and only one of them remains all original - a car ordered by a mysterious lady from Belgium, in the national yellow color, which is seen driving the Zonda regularly over the years (mostly in Switzerland) and refuses to sell it at any price, including some very lucrative offers from Horacio Pagani himself. The front was pretty flat and on the rear it had some oversized tail lights topped by a big awkward wing. It carries serial number 2. Then in 2000, Pagani Showed the Pagani Zonda S at the Geneva Auto Salon. And everyone in the industry started taking note, as he raised some eyebrows. The new car had AMG's latest 7.0L (427ci) V12 with 550hp, accelerated from 0-60 in 3.7 sec and had a top speed of 220mph. All for $350K. To put things in perspective, that is 3 years before Ferrari's Enzo, for half the price with better performance and far more exclusive, as only 16 were made. Tracking these cars and getting reference material is extremely difficult. Many of them are very rarely seen and quite few had been crashed and rebuilt by Pagani to different specs. Also, most of them have been updated by their owners numerous times with body and aero parts from the newer Zonda F model, including changing colors and interiors. To add to it, Zondas were never legal in USA, just like the original McLaren F1 or Koenigsegg. However, there are few of them in US. There is a collection in Miamy, that is rumored to have no less than 7 different Zondas in it. The car from the Geneva auto salon is definitely in that collection, but it is an ongoing argument if it is serial number 10 or 14. There are two more yellow Zondas in that collection. The mystery car is a red Zonda, which was shown at SEMA in 2001. That car started life as a silver car, was repainted red and was illegally imported by rapper Wycleff Jean from the Black Eyed Peas. It has been on US soil ever since and it is now yellow. It spend a good portion of its time in some really elite company in a garage/museum in Malibu, without an engine in it. It is in the aforementioned collection in Miami now. There is another yellowZonda S in the Czech Republic, which gets driven hard and often and has over 60K miles on it. It is owned by a big name GT racer, who is also a car importer there. It was crashed a couple years back, but I believe it's back to spec. I am writing all this, because it is related to my project. I wanted to build a model of an existing Zonda S. Pictures of these cars are scarce and there is never 100% guarantee which picture is of which serial number Zonda. But one thing is for sure. There is more than one yellow metallic Zonda S and Pagani did make Zondas with both his signature Blue/tan interior and black and yellow, which in at least one occasion was yellow ostrich.

Very nice. Another testament to what a great kit this is. You definitely did it justice.

Sweet little Coupe. I love it.

I've had this kit for quite some time and the main reason I never started on it was that I never really had a clear plan what I want to do with it. It is one of my all time favorite exotic cars for a variety of reasons, not the least of which the shock wave it caused when it was first introduced. The kit is notorious for being difficult to make fit proprly and I have never seen one built on here or at a show. Not even in a magazine. All of this poses a challenge that I more than welcome. Also it is made in a strange way, where the doors and the hoods are separate as in an opening model, but there are no parts or suggestions for making these components actually functional. No hinges or anything of the sort is provided in it. So I always wanted to make it work. Also, due to recent comments on and off the forum, about what should and shouldn't be used on a model car, I think I will have a lot of fun with this one. Stay tuned...

Here is some more from the progress. True to today's trends and the inspirational vehicle for this build, all the suspension components were done in Gloss black and matt silver. The exhaust was done in Gunmetal and metallic black mix, covered with flat clear, for that custom "ceramic coating". This would also be true to the original Street Rod of the Year. The engine was also completed and installed between the rails. I deviated a little from the real car's power plant but kept it in character. The cool chrome Chevrolet scripts on the valve covers were achieved by applying BMF to the part before painting it and then just buffing out the lettering, once the paint was dry. The body received it's black roof insert. There was a change of plans on the hub caps. These came from a Revell '40 Ford. They were sanded thinner and their outer parts were painted black. They are a lot more prototypically correct to the original car. The chassis getting there. The interior parts ready to get put together. Plastic rod was used to make the crank bases for the door handles and the window cranks, and a '29 kit donated its steering wheel. And the interior is done.

Thank you David. Thank you Adam.

Thank you David. What's more impressive is when you take this model to a show, where it doesn't even place, because the judges have no clue what they are looking at.

Thank you, David. Pleasure was all mine.