mrm

You are absolutely correct. I was talking about the reaction between the contents in the “enamel” - the resin as you described it, with the solvents used in the clear coat. Either way they don’t mix well together and that’s what needs to be avoided.

Here we go again... What does that have to do with Tamiya clear attacking Createx? Tamiya, Mr.Hobby, Testors Wet Look, Duplicolor, Rustoleum etc., etc., solvent based lacquer clear coats and 2K clear are two completely different things. It is like comparing CA glue with 30 min Epoxy. You know how CA glue attacks clear plastic? That's exactly what any of the above mentioned lacquer paint clear coats do to enamels and acrylics. Because what keeps them liquid are solvents which evaporate when applied in order to harden the coat. Those solvents attack any paint that is not designed to handle them. Tamiya and Createx acrylics, just like Testors or Humbrol enamels are just such paints not designed to handle lacquer solvents. Polyurethane clear coats, 2K clears for short, are just like 2 part epoxy. They don't cure by being exposed to air, by solvent evaporating from them. They cure by a chemical reaction triggered by mixing part A with part B. This is why they can be applied over virtually anything out there, including enamels and acrylics, like Createx. However, for a variety of reasons (I'm not gonna go there), a lot of people don't use 2K clear. And those people need to comprehend that if they chose to use acrylic or enamel paint on their models, absolutely nothing wrong with that, they need to stay away from lacquer clears, especially Tamiya. They need to use Enamel safe clear for enamels or acrylic clear, which will go over any paint safely and it is offered by both Tamiya and Createx, just not in a spray can. Failing at applying lacquer over enamels/acrylics over and over and keep attempting it will yield the same results as trying to defy gravity and walk on the ceiling.

This could easily be used as a prop in a Great Gatsby movie. Gorgeous!

This is really cool. Very well executed. It looks like it came straight from the cover of a Beach Boys album.

I love this thing from A to Z! The color, the execution of the paint, the choice of parts, the stance and how everything was put together. Stunning job!

Pretty cool. Couple months ago a spend a weekend binge watching all the episodes where the Kindig Vette body was developed from just an idea all the way through finished product. The amount of work and practical engineering mods that were done was just amazing. I like the color you have created, which perfectly compliments the outrageous design of the model.

Very cool. It is such an iconic car. I bought the Tamiya kit last year at the Heartland show, went home, opened up and studied all the part trees and instructions and put it away. Both the car and the kit deserve special attention. Your build is really nicely done and in its most popular color too. Great job!? There are two real cars like that which I would like to attempt at some point. One of them is an original, which had flames over the entire body and was pinstriped by Von Dutch. It was one of the first Gullwings in the US. The other is a car from the infamous Sultan of Brunei car collection and was built for him by Mercedes Benz themselves. It was a stock original looking body over highly tuned AMG modern chassis and monstrous engine.

Thank you. My kid was home from college for the weekend and we were at the mall, where there is a store carrying action figures which he collects. They also have lots of Gundam kits and I found something that I want to use on the interior. The idea is the entire interior to be just two colors - the fox orangey “leather” and silver.

Like them or not?!?! They look fantastic!

Tamiya clear is something I try to stay away from. It is stronger and more aggressive than any other Tamiya paint. It will eat through decals and really soak into whatever is underneath. That aside, any lacquer based clear will lift Createx as it is acrylic. It has been discussed at nauseam that there is a simple principle to follow when painting model bodies. Enamels and acrylics over lacquers is OK, but never spray lacquer over enamel or acrylic. The other thing about Tamiya clear is that it will yellow up over the years. Ever so slightly, but it will. That is fine over most colors, but does not look good on white paintjobs/decals and especially on silver.

It is definitely wider than the tube axle in the 32 kits. It is great for highboys, but total pain for fendered builds. It ca work only with wheels with very positive offset.

Easy Off is what I use for stripping chrome. It’s worth mentioning that there are two different Easy Off products that look almost identical, so it’s important to read their labels. The original is what works really good. However it irritates your lungs and throat like nothing else. So Easy Off made an “improved” version, which does not irritate your breathing. And that “improved” one does not work well (if at all) as a stripper.

Yup. I wanted something different as am building a couple of different low ground hugging Mustangs already. My ‘71 Mach 1 THE TROOPER already scratched that itch.

The SILVER FOX needs a foxy interior. So I set on a mission to find the foxyest color for it. This is my choice. It's a very fox like color and it is a great contrast with the silver, while it still feels kinda soft. I flocked the floor with tan color, which was the lightest I had and then sprayed it over from a greater distance to match the carpet to the rest of the interior. Some vintage-modern Recaro seats for maintaining the civil vibe of an everyday driver, while giving it a custom feel. Well, it's four of them actually... More foxy stuff to come...

I actually found a little time to mess around when I was repairing the damage on THE TROOPER Mustang. Since I was painting white and clear coating, I figured why not make a real storm trooper to go with the car of the same theme. Can you hear the bass line of the Empire?!

Lots a progress today, which puts me on the final stretch with this one. To be a Maxtang I need some really loud rumbling exhaust. Side exit please. The glass as installed but I really hated the complete lack of detail under the roof. One of the most overlooked aspects on any model build is usually the headliner. Very few kits address this detail. So I decided to make a headliner from the thinest sheet styrene I had. While I was at it, I made sunvisors from thicker sheet styrene. It will be all flat black when finished and nobody will see it anyway, so I am more than happy with it. After I painted and attached the rearview mirror, while sending greetings to whoever designed the attachment for that part on the windshield and his entire family tree, I managed to fit the chassis with the interior attached to it inside the body. This is far easier said than done considering the details on the engine, which is also attached to the chassis beforehand, the wider fenders and the mods to the chassis. But it boosted my enthusiasm seeing it together. It looks awesome with the hood off too, everything color matched together. I added quite a bit more detail to the engine bay, both with color and with some wires. I looked up pictures of the real thing online and I just had to have the blue wires coming out of the horns behind the grille. The wheels received their center caps and were dropped in the tires. A glimpse of my custom suspension. And it is almost done. I have some little details to add, like mirrors, lightbars etc and to give it a really good final detail/clean up. The name MAXTANG was given to it by my wife when I explained to her what the plan for the build was. Her first reaction was "Oh, so it's going to be like a Mad Max car! you can call it the MAXTANG." Now, obviously this has nothing to do with a Mad Max car but the name stuck. Almost there...

This is looking truly great so far. I like the proper color choice. Our day most super cars seem to be trying to outdo each other who can get more skittles colors in their catalog.

Very clean work on display here.

I feel your pain. That has happened to me too before. Where something simple and trivial is just fighting me for no apparent reason and preventing me from finishing a project. I am currently having a similar issue with a simple distributor, which has stalled the entire build.

Holly Molly... From what I see, you should have first sanded down the whole bodies smooth as possible and then start building up primer. You could've at least taken all the big sharp spikes out of the original print.

I definitely belong in this club too. I can't stop starting new projects.

OK. I don’t think I have ever built flat black anything. Except those lamb chops some years back, when we got carried away with my buddy over some drinks and almost burned my porch down. They were pretty flat black.

Sleep is overrated. yeah, I want to try a couple of things… Thank you. I need to set up the frame for the IRS and build a very particular set of hoods and then it’s easy from there. No. That quick change rear is just plan B, but I don’t think I’ll be needing it.

This was started when Revell reissued the '32 Ford Tudor Sedan earlier this year. It is my all time favorite '32 Body style and I've built plenty of them in the past. Everyone was talking about the reissue and getting one, so I started the build off thread with every intention of building not one, but two of them. Well, that plan changed quickly, but the thread took off with some truly great builds going on. So I decided to actually try to build one of the originally planned models, altho in a completely different way from what I had in mind at first. I have two weeks to complete it, which considering 4 Mustangs, a Corvette and a Hot Rod pick up truck which have to be completed in the same time frame, is quite the challenge for me. Back when the build off started, I began by chopping a freshly reissued body. I filled in the roof insert and made some reinforcement ribs from half-round styrene rod. It was supposed to be a full-fendered, LS powered sleek Ferrari red street rod, on a modified chassis from the kit. Well, now that I am reviving this project with a super short deadline, none of the original plan is going to be applied. It is not going to be full-fendered, it's not going on the Revell chassis, it's not going to be LS powered and it is definitely not going to be red. Well, maybe the interior, but this is also questionable. Instead it is going to sit on a modified AMT Phantom Vicky Chassis with an independent rear suspension and it is going to be powered by SBF from the Tudor kit, but with some trick induction, which would be mated to the manual transmission from the Phantom Vicky kit. The interior will be the one I started putting together when I chopped the body, which consists of 3D printed front seats, scratch built rear seat and stock door panels which will most likely receive some kind of scratch built hand rests. I have to say that experimenting with some wheels had a lot to do with the motivation to restart this build.

Coming along very nicely Bob.