mrm

Oh, boy. This brings back memories!

Now that's something you don't see every day... I like how it's shaping. Where did the body come from? And why model manufacturers are shying away from '50s Buicks? I would much rather see a '50s Buick model than the 9875865th variation of a F100 pickup truck being released.

I made a neat little roll pan on the back of the body, cut the rear end of the frame and made a new cross member to tidy everything up. It still needs some tweaking to make it all nice and smooth, but I'm working on it. This type work is mostly unnoticed and unappreciated at shows, but I like to know that the model is up to Mozzi standard. The engine intake had the Weber 48IDA carbs molded into it, but I wasn't happy with them. So I sanded them down and printed individual ones. I am not sure that's the way I want to go either, but I'll figure it out.

3D printing definitely has a learning curve to it, but once you get a feel for it it's a lot of fun. I would just get some cool wheel designs to start with and then play with resizing them. That should get you going. Warning! It can get addictive.

It looks like something you may find under a Foose Impala, but definitely not what is seen under '32 frames. It is nice and I've been eyeballing it, but still haven't pulled the trigger on it.

The rear end was definitely not originally designed for a "32 frame. But it wouldn't be fun if it was. LOL. I used the Buttera rear end in a '32 build (which I have not finished like many others from years back) and it worked out great. I wish there was a proper modern IRS available for a '32 chassis. With all the re-releases, all the aftermarket resin and with the literally limitless possibilities of the 3D revolution, it is absolutely astonishing that there is no proper IRS for the '32 frames. About the intake, the answer is both. It is an Inglese system using Webbers. It is seriously tiny stuff tho and plumbing it will be a challenge. Right now however, I am just trying to get everything ready for some color.

Thank you Dennis. This rod will be all about attitude, so the stance is a big deal.

I use Tamiya all the time. I buy a bag of 200 waxed cups - shot sizes and then just spray TS paint right in it, bend the edge and pour it straight in my airbrush cup. You just have to let them gas out a little. right in your airbrush cup (you can see bubbles at first). I don't thin them or anything. Works perfect every time. With the exception of "Neon Colors" those are very "powdery" and will cause trouble in your airbrush unless you thin them down.

That is part of your problem. That color will cause this issue over any primer unless you pray light mist coats and build it up. It dries pretty fast, so do a couple of mist coats from bigger distance, where it looks kind of flat, not wet at all. Give it 15 min and do the same. Another 15 minutes and do the same, but this time see some gloss and as soon it starts looking wet, put it aside. Give it a day and clear it. You should be fine. Altho I would seriously think about investing in an airbrush. The NEO for Iwata in Hobby Lobby is a great value. Christmas is coming and it is a perfect thing to put on your Christmas list. Unless you've been naughty ?

Are you spraying it straight from the can or decanting it and airbrushing it?

Thank you. I’m trying to get the momentum going, before this joins about ten other hotrods that are collecting dust in boxes half built. LOL.

Thank you. I think it gives it a little bit of an attitude and bespoke feel. But my name is definitely not Dennis. LOL. It’s Michael per my drivers license, but most people call me Mozzi.

Looks like a fantastic start. About the color... Take your daughter to one of those cosmetic stores, or just the section at your local Target and let her look at the nailpolish colors. they usually come with crazy cool names too. let her choose the orange color she loves and buy two bottles. They are half ounce each, which means that after cutting it 1:1 with lacquer thinner you should have about 2 oz ready to spray. She may even have enough to do her nails in matching orange once you're done with the model. Tamiya primer should have no problem handling it. Most importantly, your girl will feel involved and happier than ever.

Great looking Deuce Dennis. And that top definitely looks better on this body than on the Revell roadster. I still can't believe that nobody has made yet proper chopped roadster top for the Revell original Roadster or the Rat Roaster with the lower windshield.

Coming along nice.

Yeah Stuart, smells like another '32 build-off...?

Nice. Super nice. Can't wait to see the paintjob on the body. I love Tamiya primer, but stay away from their white one. I hate it with a passion and it has caused me headaches numerous times. With a color as dark as that Mica Blue there is absolutely zero reason using it. I think you wouldn't have the same issues with paint pulling from corners with their grey primer.

I finally made some progress on mine. I have my hoods figured out, but they are still far from primer-ready. There is a lot more than meets the eye on this picture. The side hoods were painstakingly sanded to half their original thickness or less. I am planing a similar treatment for the top hood too. The frame received a new rear crossmember to accept the IRS and the quasymotor was fitted. Using the transmission from the Phantom Vicky definitely helped properly locating it in the frame. The body received the Vicky's wheelwells which not only positively locates it on the frame, but also determined the ride height with the help of an ever so slight channel over the frame. Now it has proper attitude, which I plan to dial up a notch.

So,I played with the idea of some different hoods. Finally I decided to cut open the smooth hoods that came in the kit. Added some modded hood vents from a rally car... And completely rescaled muscle car scoop to the top hood. Now that piece took many tries to get right and posed many printing issues. I think I printed something like 12 different pieces until I got one right and grafted onto the hood without damaging it. The IRS is highly modified piece that was available at shapeways. The original was wider, the calipers were on top of the brakes and it had four shocks - two per side. And the whole thing could be ordered only as a one-piece-print. To use it and to have the right ride height, I had to modify the rear section of the Phantom Vicky frame and to make a new cross member from square styrene rod. I love the custom nonstock look of the Vicky wheelwells and I definitely liked the idea of the locating pins they come with. So I adapted them to the Revell body. Easier said than done. Now that thing has some attitude and I am excited. The frame is pretty much set up. The ride height and the stance/rake is dialed in and the engine is figured out. Still some details have to be worked out like the raised engine mounts necessary not to drag the oil pan and headers on the ground and the rear shocks and their mounts. This brings us to our earlier discussion and what I meant by "the grey area" in accuracy ourdays. See, this type of IRS was derived from a Jag rear end design. The lower "A-Arms" (there are no upper and they are no longer "A" but still) were usually welded up and fabbed from tubing. This necessitated extra bracing and the usual dual shock set up, just like on the picture Ace posted. But will it be inaccurate with a single shock and without the "X" braces? In today's high tech times the answer is IT DEPENDS. Because those A-arms can be forged from solid billet aluminum or even more exotic materials and be stronger, lighter and never flex even with a single shock. And there are plenty setups like that out there. Now I need a lot of putty and sanding on both the chassis and body in order to make then ready for paint, which I intend to spray this weekend.

Very nice. Looks just right. The deadline was moved to November 13th, so you are right on time. When I saw the first pictures of your build, I thought you were building a car I’ve been trying to start for quite some time. But yours is very different. I love blown flathead in your model. It’s a great traditional hot rod.

I can see a challenge coming my way. I love the car and now that you pointed out the issues with the clam shell, I’m anxious to try make it work. So I may be licking one of these kits up.

Looks great. I have built quite few Fujimi kits, but never looked into the box of one of these. What are its flaws?

I had the opportunity to see this model in person and it is an absolute work of art. It was a great pleasure chatting with the man that brought it from the virtual world into reality. The amount of great models was overwelming at the ACME show, but the P70 got my vote.

Killer paint job and choice of color. Can’t wait to see it done. Is it going to have some sort of accent color?