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Scale I Build

  1. I started a new kit for 2024. After fighting the Evil Iron Trike and all of its horribleness, I wanted to build a hassle-free kit that would look great when finished. Tamiya to the rescue. I decided on the Ferrari 360 Modena. Although I am not against a red Ferrari, I feel there are so many other beautiful colors out there for them. I am a big fan of Gravity Colors, Spain, and have a nice and growing selection of their paint. I had their Ferrari Grigio Alloy and felt it would look great on the 360 Modena. The Grigio Alloy is what I would call an Ice Blue, a silver with a blue hue to it. Here is where I am at with the kit so far. I will caption each photo as needed. The kit. Here are 2 photos of the real thing. The first one is in direct sunlight and looks rather silver. The second one is in a more shaded area and shows the blue hue very nicely. Here is Gravity Colors' paint. As I always do, I run a Sharpie over all of the body seams. This helps me ensure that I remove all of the mold lines. I'm a little concerned about the red plastic. I took this photo to illustrate how easy it can be to miss something in the body work phase. Th Sharpie not only hits the high spots but will get down in the grooves as well. I finished the body work, washed the model and shot Gravity Dark Primer over it. I was still concerned about the red plastic and possible bleed through. I know there is an argument about whether or not this happens. It does and it has happened to me. After the primer dried I shot Tamiya LP-11 Silver over all of the body parts. I have had great success with using silver paint to block bleed through. I felt it was better to be safe than sorry. Once the LP-11 Silver had time to cure, I shot another coat of Gravity Colors Dark Primer. Overkill and unnecessary? Perhaps. I did it for 2 reasons. First, I wasn't sure how the Gravity Colors Grigio Alloy would react to the Tamiya LP-11 Silver. Second, I felt it would be very hard to distinguish between the silver paint and the Grigio Alloy paint as they are not that different. The Dark Primer was a nice contrast. Here is where she currently sits. There are 5 coats of Grigio Alloy on all of the body parts. I just cannot capture the blue hue of the paint but it is there to the naked eye. If you look in the headlight or taillight buckets you can see the blue in the paint. Thanks for looking in! Let me know what you think.
  2. HI everyone!🙂 this is my fujimi1/24 250gto 250 gto, probably my favorite ferrari car of all time.. the kit is aged,however,I think it's a good kit I did some modification and detail up try to build this beauty as good as I could.. hope you guys like it! and here is the vide build if you are interested!!😄
  3. This would be a fun model to build! He asks what would be a good term for this genre of car.
  4. Kitbashing the Airtrax Ferrari 330 GTC resin kit with the Revell 575 M Superamerica. The reason I have always wanted the 330 GTC, when I was a kid, my dad knew someone who had one (and an Aston Martin, and a BMW Bavaria, and a Mercedes 300 SC), and after incessant begging he took me for a ride. Even though it needed a tuneup, it sure made an impression on me. Because of this forum, I found the source, so I sprung for it. Found the pictures online, to print out for the box art. The body appears to be accurate, the photo-etch is really nice even though there is no "Ferrari" or Prancing Horse emblems (have that covered). You need to provide tires, and a chassis, I guess the 250 SWB or 275 GTB/S, or even the Daytona, would be the most accurate, but I wanted something different. Found the Superamerica at a swap meet in town (not a model swap meet) for $10. The wheelbase is almost the same, track width might be a challenge, but that's what flares are for. Doing this for a Fakebook community build, maybe I will nickname it Mama Mia! 🇮🇪 Owners manual, will photo-reduce for a final detail. A look at the parts. No instructions. Need to make the steering wheel rim, might try using wood like what Replicas & Miniatures of MD has done. I have rally lights left over from my Cannonball WRC Subaru (not shown). Custom box: Community build started 1/01/22, proof that I didn't get a head start. 😅 One wheel is terrible, but since I didn't plan to use them, not a big deal.
  5. After a short hiatus, my final build for 2023 is Fujimi's Ferrari F430 Scuderia. I strayed from the box art as I just don't see a Ferrari 'street' car with stripes. Body colour is Zero Paints Ferrari Rosso Rubino over Pink primer and cleared with Mr. Color GX100. The actual car has a fair bit of carbon fibre which I tried to replicate with paint over the rear fascia, grids and vents. The interior is a combination of Semi Gloss Black and a lighter shade of carbon fibre coloured paint. The wheels were painted AK Xtreme Metalizer Gold and coated with multiple applications of Tamiya X-19 Smoke. What I learned: 1. Zero Paint does not like going on wet as it can, and will reactivate the lower layers. In fact, it's so hot it will soften the plastic. It tells you in the instructions to apply 3 or 4 medium coats. This particular colour didn't seem to cover evenly and required a number of extra coats. Due to my impatience I encountered the reactivation thing. :^( 2. I really can't say anything negative about the assembly of this kit. It's probably the best fitting Fujimi kit I've built. Every part went together well including the glass. 3. If you choose to build one yourself, attach the front end of the body to the chassis first and work your way to the back.. easy peasy. Wishing everyone a Happy New Year for '24
  6. Found this 308GTB kit in my stash and I don't remember ever buying it! But I'm a Ferrari lover, so I thought I'd chop it up and see what happens! I also bought this Revell Enzo parts kit, so I have a few ideas!
  7. I´ve bought this Ferrari with only a few Euros, because the kit was used and some pieces are broken and missing. Now after mounting it shall stand outside for a long time in order to become a barn find model. You can see the original car here:
  8. Found by accident on YouTube. I never thought of putting a V8 anything into a Subaru, looks like fun!
  9. Since the Pintera build is on hold until I can get to the store for paint stripper, I decided to pull this one back off the shelf. You guys are a little late to the party here, as I started this build around twenty years ago. This is the Testors boxing of the Italeri kit. Bought it brand new at a lhs (sadly long since closed) back in 1988. It sat pretty much untouched until the early 2000’s. As you’ll see, a lot of progress was made back then, but it eventually got shelved for reasons I don’t remember. Might have been around the time we moved. What’s finished- The body is done! Shot in Model Master Italian red (what else!) and some clear, probably MM too, with an airbrush, back when I had a good place to do that. Interior is also done! And finally, the engine is mostly finished. What’s that leave? I still need to finish the turbos and exhaust system. Also all suspension needs done, and then it’ll be ready for final assembly. Let’s see if I can push this old Ferrari across the finish line finally.
  10. Good morning, Sharing my thoughts on this Fujimi kit. It was painted with Tamiya LP-42 Mica Red over Tamiya Pink Primer and clear coated with TS-13. The interior is Zero Paints Ferrari Cuoio Leather clear coated with Tamiya X-35 Semi Gloss and Tamiya TS-29 Semi Gloss Black. In hindsight, I wished I'd added a little more back to the interior - which I would have done if the doors could be opened and closed. I left the wheels their original chrome but gave them 3 coats of Tamiya X-19 Smoke. The kit contains some photo etch parts and window masks. Most of the kit went together quite well, however I noted a few exception below. What I learned: 1. Mica Red required multiple coats before it started looking red and not orange over the pink primer. 2. First time using decanted TS-29 Semi Gloss Black - it seemed to go on like their LP-5 and looks identical to my eyes once dry. 3. First time using Zero Paints. It can be sprayed between 15 to 40 psi. I would lean more towards 15 next time - especially for the interior as the paint dried very quickly. 4. It's probably just me, but the plastic seemed more brittle than other kits I've built. I broke a wiper and the small front spoiler. 5. Fitment issues: When dropping in the engine, make sure the headers are tight to the engine as it is a snug fit inside the engine compartment (they can't be seen anyway). The nose/mustache did not fit flush against the left and right quarter panels so I used CA glue + accelerator to hold them down. The headlights are attached from below but there is no way they can be attached to the pins on the nose/mustache. I had to cut the mounting holes on the headlights into semicircles (kinda hard to explain, but picture horseshoe vs. ring toss). The side mirrors and the small front spoiler gave me nightmares. The contact points are too small and I popped the mirrors off a couple times and made a glue mess of the (broken) spoiler. And finally, perhaps this is a Fujimi characteristic (had the same problem with a GT40), the body to chassis fit takes a little patience while you enjoy all the creaking and scraping sounds. I'm not bashing the kit, however I don't think I'd build another Berlinetta. Thanks for reading :^)
  11. I finally finished this one, fought me every step of the way. Came in a Testors box but obviously a reboxed Heller kit with all that implies. The hardest part was the rear engine/suspension and the headers-20 pieces alone. Very detailed and true to scale, thus very delicate! Picked up the livery from Indycals as I wanted to do a Ferrari in other than red. Anyways, thanks for looking, comments always welcome.
  12. 1/20 scale Tamiya Ferrari F189 Great kit to build if you want to go to town the 1/20 scale F1 cars are great
  13. In 1967 a Ferrari entered by Scuderia Filipinetti won the GT class at Le Mans while Ford won overall. This alloy bodied 275 GTB/C 09079 Ferrari was the last competition prepared Ferrari to run on wire wheels. This is an older Italian made BBurago model which has replacement resin cast wheels and a few competition features added and decals from the parts box. Oops - I left off the colored signal lights on the right hand side. Reference: 1966 Ferrari 275 GTB Competition Coupe by Pininfarina Chassis 09079, engine 09079 (conceptcarz.com)
  14. Hi all, I am new to the forum and would like to introduce myself. I'm C.A.R, 28 year old male, from New York, and have been building 1/32nd aircraft for years. I would like to share my first F1 model car build with you. While I normally wouldn't venture into building cars myself, my 27 year old brother is a huge F1 fan and recently requested that I build something for him. When he showed me the Ferrari 641 in 1/12th scale, I had to oblige. I found the car gorgeous and the engineering of the 1/12th scale Tamiya kit to be an excellent starting point for a super-detailed build of Alain Prost's 1990 car. The biggest challenge (and expense) associated with building this model was somehow obtaining the two Perfect Parts detail sets (1. full set & 2. brakes), which have long been discontinued for at least 10 years and are extremely rare (several sets have sold on eBay for $200-$500 dollars each). Despite this, I was lucky to get both from a seller in England for $275 total. Though I have no way of knowing this, I suspect I bought one of the last unused sets in the world. I knew I had to work extra hard on this kit to do those rare detail sets (and my brother's build) justice. Regarding detail sets, the only other detail set supplier is a from a guy named Paul Raterink who runs Thundervalley F1. He turns out some impressive work but hasn't responded to my many emails. I initially tried to buy his stuff; when he didn't respond, I went on a wild goose chase globally to find the Perfect Parts sets. It was dumb luck that I was able to get both sets at the price I got them. As good as the PP sets are, they have inaccuracies. Mainly, the velocity stacks are completely inaccurate, as are the brake discs. Both are accurate for the McLaren Mp4/6, the Ferrari 641's rival car and counterpart Tamiya release in the early 1990's. I researched the car by traveling to the MOMA's example in NYC (below) and taking my own pictures of the actual car. I also used Tamiya's Ferrari 641 detail book and numerous google images. I also looked at the builds of others to see which judgments they felt were accurate in either/or areas. I tried to find engine plumbing schematics for the Ferrari engine, but could not find anything. I will probably roll out pictures by subassembly: wheels, brakes, torsion bars, wings, monocoque, engine, etc. In the spirit of improvement and/or accuracy, I invite you to be as critical as you like when leaving comments. CR
  15. Just happened to be in town today, saw an old Alfa Romeo, then another classic sports car, with a logo on the side, so I did a quick u-turn and followed them to a hotel downtown. The Copperstate rally was staying the night, last day will be tomorrow. So nice to see these cars being driven, this rally is 1,000 miles. A nice benefit, the latest project I'm building was here, so took lots of reference pictures that aren't posted. Looks like whoever had a Porsche 911 Carrera RS got a discount to join the party. First batch is in bright sunlight.
  16. Unofficial reveal, of the Italeri (Testors) Ferrari 250 GTO Spyder. WIP: Italeri/Testors Ferrari 250 GTO Spyder The factory never built a Spyder of the famous GTO, two cars were coach built on average Ferrari chassis (is there such a thing?). I saw the convertible twice, once in my town when the Copperstate Rally parked downtown, and at a Monterrey Historics. This is not an exact replica, added some features such as the roll bar. I will take better pictures when the weather cooperates.
  17. Wait... nobody has built this kit? It's been calling me from the stash, "build me, I'm an easy curbside, don't even think about putting an engine, transaxle, suspension in because you'll never finish." I searched and found nothing.
  18. Brand new resin kit of the unusual Ferrari 410 Superamerica Ghia. I've kept my eye on his Facebook page, after several years he posted that this was about ready, so I PMed him to say I was interested. I said that I look for his eBay listings, he said don't do that, he gave me the price and made the sale that way. Ordered August 4, seems like the usual across the ocean service. Nice cardboard box with his artwork top and one end. Well packed in bubblewrap. It's a curbside, but I have plans. You can tell it's handmade, not too thick a body. His famous real wire wheels, rims are painted, and the resin tires have an authentic looking tread. Nice decals. The grill is resin; I asked if he considered doing that with photo-etch, he said this is laser cut. The photo-etch is top notch. I've had this book a long time, so have a great start for reference. This is my plan (of mice and men), restorod! The Revell 2005 575M Maranello based Superamerica is a little shorter in wheelbase, but the width is about the same. Only a nut like me would think of making an already challenging resin kit more so by kitbashing. 🤔 I'm also considering painting turquoise, just to avoid RED. But who knows, I have so many other future projects where I thought the same thing. I've learned to get what I want, NOW, such as the Fisher Alfa Romeo BAT5.
  19. Old Monogram kit, 1965. Bought it at the 2019 IPMS kit swap. Classic build, ie, no PE or aftermarket resin. A simple, not particularly accurate kit, but went together well. I find that when I'm struggling to make time for kit building, finding a "low-parts count kit" (20-30 count) helps get me over the motivation hump. Finished with Tamiya primer, Tamiya Ferrari Red spray can & Mr. Hobby clear. Used Bare Metal Foil for chrome.
  20. DISCLAIMER: These kits have been started in 2008 before my accident. Everything that you see in the first few posts will be the work I have completed before the project was shelved. I’m attempting to resurrect the build and hopefully complete these at some point soon, just don’t know if I’m still in shape to actually do it, but what the heck. =================================== The 1979 24 Hours of Le Mans was the 47th Grand Prix of Endurance, and took place on June 9 and 10, 1979. Ferrari had no chance against mighty Porsches and new BMW M1s, but it did enter several cars in competition. It was Beurlys 512BB LM #61 "EMKA" with its screaming 4.9L Flat-12 driven by Nick Faure, Steve O'Rourke, Bernard de Dryver, and Jean Blaton that showed 12 overall result having completed 274 laps. Today I will build this car in 1:24th, using multimedia kit from Model Factory Hiro. I will be another double-build. The second car will be JMS Racing/Pozzi #63 3M "Cloud Car", which unfortunately DNF after completing 219 laps. Here are couple of pictures of the real cars: The kits are usual MFH detail tour de force, with lots of white metal, turned aluminum and steel, and photoetch. Body is half resin half metal, and lots of other materials used for various parts of the kit as well. I started with cleaning the bodies, but as with all MFH kits, the process will be slow (and painful) because of the amount of cleanup and test-fitting required. You get a lot for your 31500 yen - here is kit contents: As you can see on the following pix, the fit is horrible. I mean - nothing really fits! It looks like some parts came from a different kit! So...I decided to cut it all apart and see if I can put it back together so it fits right! Made templates for the doors Then started hacking into it. Look at the thickness of that thing! Good grief! You know why Hiro kits are so expensive? They use way too much resin :-) LOL! After I cleaned up door jambs a bit I found one positive though - I don't have to build door jambs now - they are thick enough as is, I actually had to thin them down a bit. Door pattern was transferred to sheet brass, then doors were cut out, shaped over the spare body and just by hand, and then meticulously fine-tuned, bent here and there, beaten to shape. Still need some work a bit, but the basic shape is there. Door jambs were cleaned for the doors, and then I started carving the cavity for the doors to go inside the body when they open. After few hours of work, cavities were made, door jambs finished, and part of the hinge made. Then I added hinge to the door skins. It is a very simple but very effective construction that perfectly replicates the way doors opened on the real car. Later on, the entire hinge assembly will be concealed by the inner door frame. This is how the doors fit on the outside: Front lid was sanded and re-shaped until my fingers started bleeding! Had to completely re-do the sides, then thin it down (a lot). That cover needed tons of work. Still need a bit more, but I was at least able to do proper test fitting. Now I need to do the same for the other! Door frames! Still a few tweaks needed here and there, and solder needs to be cleaned up, but basic shape is there. So, this is where it all stopped in 2008. I have not touched this kit since, everything that is to follow will be new stuff. I honestly don’t even know where to pick up the pieces on this, but will assess the situation over the weekend and proceed then. Just wanted to put this up here as a bookmark!
  21. I was rummaging around through my files and found this decades old note I sent to Gregg about old Ferrari model kits. I thought some might find it interesting though don't hold me to the accuracy or omissions. Gary Old Ferrari Models revived.doc
  22. hi everyone !😄 this is my FUJIMI 1/24 FERRARI 288GTO. build it almost out of box,just add some detail parts ..the kit is aged, but I think the shape is quite well, and no fitting issue.. a easy kit to build! hope you guys like it!!🙂 and here is the video build if you are interested..🙂
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