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This looks cool. A lot of work piecing all these parts of cars together and making it look seamless. IMHO this has to be painted white metallic.

Sweet. love the PE emblems

Really nice looking shoebox. This is one Ford that I really love ever since I read an article about a custom one made for Billy Gibbons from ZZ Top. I think his was called Copperhead or something like that. I think that the wheels and the colors are suiting the car perfectly. I guess I am not saying anything different than everyone before me, but anyway.... About that engine....which kit did it come from and did it come with this whole setup? The intake and the carbs and everything? Once again, cool model.

That Mysterion looks really good. From I have heard they are not easy to build.

Truely cool. I love it

I will definitely be there too. Not much going on in Colorado as far as model shows are concerned, so I can't miss it.

This is a model that was started somewhere in 1998 on the edge of a room window. I had the idea back then and over the time the model changed few times and few colors. However it was never really finished. last year I attempted to finish it on time for the Heartland Nationals and because I rushed it, it end up not exactly what I wanted. actually it is exactly what I wanted, but not to the standard I wanted it. It started as an Aluma coupe body, which then was modified in every regard. It is now lower, wider. A chopped 32 grille shell was grafted in the nose and then the upper part cut and molded with the widened hood to open as a one piece. The interior is Scratchbuilt using parts from different models. The seats are the rear seats from a diecast Ferrari 456GT that has been very much reworked and just the centers are retained in the shape they were. The dash is made of the center section of Dodge copperhead concept and the center console is from Ferrari F50. Everything has been blended together with the help of a lot of styrene and putty. The engine was donated by the same diecastmodel, as was the center section of the frame and the rear transaxle. I am not happy with the finish on it and some details. As for now it is sitting like this, but it is in the future plans to redo it once more. the idea was to perfectly blend all the characteristic threads of both Ferrari and '32Ford. So it has four round stoplights, inboard carbon fiber suspention, front mounted V12 and gated shifter. Meanwhile it retains the Hot Rod spirit, the emblematic Deuce grille and the overall Deuce shape. Thank you for looking and sorry for the crappy pictures.

That last creation is insane. I love it. it gives me ideas....must look away.......must look away........to many projects.....look away

Great choice of engine. it looks just right so far. Wheels/tires can either improve it or ruin it. Choose wisely

So incredibly awesome. I absolutely love it when I see models created with "out-of-the-box-mentality". I don't even know for sure what these type of cars are called, but this is one of the coolest things I have seen.

Looking cool. love the color too. I may be in the minority, but I love the 928 too. I got tired of the same 911 design when I was 15. Not digging the wheels tho, but to each their own. Does anyone make this car WITH an engine in 1:24

Nice job. I have to ask, because I am not very familiar with all the terms. Does Pro Street have to have threaded rear tires? I am asking, because I see builds with slick rears and also kits that say pro street and come with slicks. Yet when reading rules for contests, I am left with the impression, that they have to with threaded rears.

Bart, the wheels are from the Revell Monogram '32 Roadster, hence they fit perfectly on the original axles of the kit, but do miracles on a fendered setup. So, I did the interior. It was painted in the closest thing I had to natural hideand the window cranks and other detailes were picked out with chrome paint. The dash was painted semi gloss black and the upmost portion on the doors and the handrests in flat black. The chromed piece from the kit for the dash had its gauges first painted yellow and then the markings drybrushed black in them. Then the entire panel received a general dose of Tamiya smoke paint. After that the instruments were drowned in acrylic clear. The steering wheel is the banjo style found in AMT's Phantom Vicky, from my other thread. It was first painted flat black and then the spokes were picked out with chrome. The buttons on the seat were also touched up with black Next I put the radiator in the model. Instead of the usual flat black, I decided to make the Rod sport an aluminum radiator. So some metalizer gunmetal with aluminum drybrushed over it, did the trick. Unfortunately after I had installed the fan on the radiator, I found out that it rubs in the engine pulley, so some material had be sanded down. I know in the other thread I said I never liked the panel creases painted black, but in this case it works quite well So here is where we are so far

So I stripped everything from paint and painted it over again. Because this is my guinea pig I decided to experiment with different paints and their compatibility. I said I wanted to do this as a spray can job, so I first covered everything in Rust-o-leum primer sealer from the Auto Zone accross the street. This went very well. Next I sprayed few coats of Tamiya bright green, which was way too bright, so I decided that I need to take some of its fluorensence out. Back to Auto Zone I went and bought a can of clear EFFECTS (or something like this) which claimed that creates a metallic out of any solid color. I sprayed it very very carefully over the Tamiya paint and the green was metallic. Then I did something I usually don't like. I used a 0.05 marker to put black in the door creases. I did not like what I had because it just did not look very realistic. I never liked the black painted creases on doors or nay panels and I have no idea what made me do it. Anyway, since this is my guinea pig and the Tamiya paint had some transperancy to it, I decided to spray a couple more very thin coats of green, so it could cover the black creases but to be transperant enough, so the black still gave a shadow. Then I sprayed the clear effex, or whatever it is called, and decided to build up glitter with it. In few thin coats I build up enough of it, to receive an amazing effect. It gives the paint almost a shifting ability. Under surtain angles it is just plain green, but under others it has golden hues with even some blue into it. Really really cool. This is why I love guinea pig projects. Always something new to discover. I guess third time was the charm. I wil wait a couple more days and mask it and put the black on the top part of the body. I decided not to take away from the wow effect of the green paint and make the top part just plain black. (originally I was thinking spraying the clear effex over the black too) Thank you for looking and stay tuned.

Thank you Dirk. I never knew McLaren did Mustangs.

Fantastic. I love paintjobs like this. I have done quite a bit of model painting and masking , but never tried something like this. Maybe because I never built any models of this type. But the more a look at projects like this one, the closer I get to buying this sort of kit just to try laying some paint. Thank you for the great pictures and explanations.

I apologize for my ignorence on the subject, but this is the first time ever I hear about a McLaren Mustang. Did such a thing ever exist or is it just a name you picked for it? And like Dirk asked, what makes it a McLaren? The model itself looks sweet.

I met Big Daddy in Chicago at a hobby show. The real Beatnik Bandit II was there and there were Revell kits for purchasing. I bought one and had it authographed by him. Later I gave it to a good friend we used to go to model shows together. many years ago I have built the Beatnik Bandit I and II , but the models are long gone. I have however the original Beatnik Bandit in 1:18 Diecast.

This thing is crazy. Very cool and great work so far. I will also be following this for sure.

I started dissambling everything and then ideas started popping in my head. So now the build is going to follow the same guide lines, but it is getting different. Engine, frame, body, interior, wheels stay the same. I just thought that it needs more 'POP' so I decided to sharpen the contrast. So, now the engine, frame and lower body are still going to be green, but a much "louder" green and the upper part will be blain jet black instead of metallic. As a challenge I want to make the build a rattle can job, but I substituted the one touch cans for Tamiya ones. The interior will stay untouched, except some seatbelts may be added. I also am thinking of dechroming the grille and making it black also. I would like a second opinion on this from everyone. Thank you

Thank you guys. I was thinking to save the Vicky and I started to sand some of the nasty fish eyes on the black paint. Then I noticed some more on the green too and at one point I realized, that it would be considerably easier to just take the thing apart, reuse what I can and build the rest from square one, as I have few kits like this. So, I will make the identical thing, but just build in a better way.

Hi guys. Maybe someone on here can help me with some questions. I have made molds before. When I tryed it for the first time, the only place that was selling supplies for making resin parts were MicroMark. I have used their products with mixed results. There RTV sylicone worked fine for some applications in the past and not so well for others. Their tire making rubber never worked for me. Some of their resins were fine and some not. Then someone pointed me in the direction of Alumilite. I have used them for some time as I found them to be supperior to MicroMark's product for most applications. Now somone was telling me that Smooth-on is better yet than the Alumilite product. Someone also mentioned that MicroMark does not make any of their product, but rather has Smooth-on product repackaged for them. So, can someone shed some light on the subject please? Is microMark and smooth-on the same product? Also what experiences does anyone have with smooth-on vs. alumilite? Which one is better and what makes it so? Any input is more than welcome. Thank you

This model was started somewhere in the middle of last year, right after I decided to return to plastic kit building. Long story short, it was used as test bed for few different things. First I really wanted to see how an almost completely dechromed modern Deuce would look like in the flesh. Then I wanted to try the then-somewhat-new one toush paint from Testors straight out of the can (well it sucks MHO) Last but not least I wanted to see the front suspention with a particular size wheel/tire without modifying it or the frame/body/grille (not very happy with that either) So here is my little guinea pig, which is still not finished. So far it has Alumacoupe wheels, brakes and tires, photoetched gauge panel,pedals, door handles and steering wheel and a dual pipe intake machined from aluminum. It still needs the upper portion of the body to be repainted (in the same metallic black) front lights hood and supports installed windshield installed rear taillights and licence plate installed. It does not seem like a lot, but considering that for some reasons unknown to me, apparently I have decided back when I did the car so far, to actually glue everything together. So now, I have to very carefully mask the model while it is assembled to do any painting on it. And I assure you, I am not happy with the paintjob on it. Stay tuned and thanks for looking.

Well the effect of the finish is really realistic because.....it is real. The model has been touched so many times with oily fingers, dirty hands and it has been collecting dust and catching sunlight for some time now. I don't think I can replicate the finish even if I tried. LOL

thank you. I knew it looked way too good to be a Revival kit. MFH make great stuff, but are pricey and not easy to get. I am a Ferrari guy through and true, but I hade to vote for that fantastic Deuce.