VooDooCC

I got this tip from when I was painting radio control bodies, a lot of people on those forums highly recommend it, some said it works better than the createx thinner.

This isn't mine, but a question for my father in law, so I'm not sure the specifics. This is on a ship, but the problems are paint related. He tried using a spray can, but it didn't come out right, so he wiped that down and airbrushed some black. Not sure if it was model master or createx, as he has both, thinned with future. put down some masking then tried brushing testors acryl clear (a tip he got from somewhere) to help seal from paint bleading. Every stroke of the clear made the paint active again and start to smear and even run a little. My guess was that the black wasn't dry before applying the clear. He said he let it dry for 2 days, so I'm wondering what your thoughts are. Thanks, Justin

I'm taking a guess here, but it looks a lot like the cat from the revell kenworth w900 and revell pete 259, not sure if it's in others as well.

You would hate the car show we have in this town every year. They close off about 6 blocks of main street and more than 2 of those are lined with vette's on both sides plus intermixed in all the others. The camaro's are about right for the ratio though. I think I've seen one Barracuda in the last 3 years.

Still waiting on a good time to paint it, I finally have the time, but I share the paint booth with another person in the house, so time is limited. I haven't yet test fit the tires to see if they'll be an issue, hopefully they work fine.

I checked, and they Meijer in town has them, ranging from 10.99 to 16.99 (I believe those were the prices) but yes it's a Christmas only thing

I think I may have to pick up some of the blue tack, what department would I find that in?

I did this one real quick, couldn't find a good pyramid for it though, so the car's not quite to scale, and at an odd angle.

Thanks, that helps a lot. I didn't get any painting done today and the wife's birthday is tomorrow so I really shouldn't ignore her to spend time with it. Or should I?

I'm hoping after dropping enough hints my wife will get me at least one I can replicate for Christmas. Trouble is, of my car history, I only know of 2 that were actually made as models. 87 Pontiac Grand Prix, 95 Chevy Corsica, 88 Cutlass Cierra, 96 Honda Civic dx coupe, 97 Honda Civic ex coupe, 00 Celica GT-S, 00 Subaru Forester, 00 Celica GT-S, 09 Kia Sorento. Yes, I owned the same Celica twice..the transmission, clutch, pressure plate, and #3 cylinder all went out at the same time 11 days after buying it. Convinced the dealer to buy it back since that's all the longer I had it for. The forester then only lasted me 5 months and I was getting a bad valve tick. Got a survey from toyota about the work done on the Celica, so I traded the Forester back in on the Celica. Had it close to 2 years and the rear main seal transmission and clutch were all having problems again. Sorry for the mini history lesson on my car life.

I picked up the clear embossing powder today from joann fabrics, it was only $6 plus tax since they run sales all the time. I also picked up some plastic spoons to try it on before screwing up the model. I hope to at least do some test samples tomorrow, but not guaranteeing anything. This build is taking a lot longer than I expected from getting distracted so much. Rick, do you have any pics of yours? I'm really struggling to figure out what color to do the interior.

I'm sure others have better methods, but for small parts I typically just lay out some blue painters tape, sticky side up, tack down the ends of it in some cardboard to hold it in place and call it good.

I kind of like it, first glance was ugly, but it grew on me quickly. Provided this is a kit and not destroying history.

Dave, very good call on it being worth the headaches. I just assumed other solvents would cause them too.

I use the MEK almost exclusively so far, but the headaches can be brutal. Would the Tenax or Ambroid be better about fumes? Also, can I use those in a touch n flow? Back to topic: I never got the knack down for the tube stuff, have used the testors pink label a little and am going to order some tamiya extra thin to try it out.

We have a hobby lobby, but they only had the this variety of pack of flocking and at least a couple of the bottles had leaked so it was all over the card. Plus they wanted $25 for it. I wasn't sure if embossing powder would work, those were a little cheaper at hobby lobby, and joann fabrics had a 4oz can of clear embossing for $10. They have createx paint, but usually a pitiful selection for $4.59 for 2 oz, but I've found it quite a few places for $2.99 for 2 oz. The other paints are about that big of a price difference too.

I have to lean more towards the Mach 5, I love all of the versions of the batmobile, but the mach 5 would be much lighter without all of the gadgets.

After going everywhere I could think of locally and not coming up with anything. I have to order some flock and paint. I was just going to go with whatever colors I could get, but since I'm ordering them and have a choice now, I can't decide what I want. I know I'm going with a blue cab, but trying to figure out the interior. I'm kind of thinking tan seats, I have burnt sienna but that may be a bit too dark. I'm leaning towards black for the floor, walls, ceiling, curtain, etc. but not sure if a lighter color would go better. What do you think? BTW, I want to stick with acrylics, and have had good luck with Model Masters in the past.

This has probably been covered, but I couldn't find it, plus I know I'm not the only one who's wondered what everyone's favorite online stores are? I would have no problem supporting local stores, but I drove 100 miles to find 2 hobby shops, one with horrible selection and the other with an almost acceptable selection; both with very high prices. If it matters, the main items on my shopping list are: flock (I refuse to pay the $25 hobby lobby wants), some paints both acrylic and enamel, alclad, and iwata angled (steeper angle) siphon feed bottles.

Wow! I must say this is one of, if not the, most impressive builds I've seen on here so far.

No problem, just glad i could help.

I also had this one in my stash of tips. Though it sounds more for actually welding the plastic than just getting the look of it. "Scrap plastic is heated with a soldering iron to a semiliquid blob. That material is then applied to the area to be repaired. Properly done, it becomes part of the model - just like welding. The material can be sanded and painted instantly. The preferred use is for filling cracks, gouges, small holes and seams. The material should be the same as the plastic the kit is made of - for example, a piece of sprue from the kit being worked on - and try not to mix, say, AMT/Ertl plastic with plastic from a Revell-Monogram kit. "This technique requires a great deal of care, and is definitely not for children. Do not attempt to plastic-weld glued areas that could create toxic fumes. This procedure will not work on clear plastic, and on AMT kits produced before 1970; however, I've used this technique successfully on later AMT/Ertl, JoHan, Monogram, and Revell models. Patience, practice, and a good needle-tip soldering iron are all that is needed. "Practice on old bodies and scrap sprue until you reach a comfort level that will allow you to move on to car bodies. Plastic welding is not an end-all in attaching model sections together, but it can be a useful tool in repairing or customizing car models." This is a relatively advanced technique that's not for unsupervised kids. It should not be attempted unless you have a clear understanding that hot things could burn you and leave a mark. The main thing is to be careful, be safe, and have fun with a new technique.

This is copied and pasted, so the "I" is not actually me. "Unfinished welds can add visual interest to a truck, a car under construction, a completed rat rod, or just about anything else made of metal. Here's what the T&T R&D department came up with: "I picked up a spool of small-diameter (1/32") electrical solder. That's still too thick to represent a scale bead, so I flattened it by pacing on an anvil (the back of a vise would work too) and whacked it with a small hobby hammer. Don't worry about the irregular edge. I got it down to about 1/64", which is a good thickness to work with, but now it was too wide, so I trimmed the flattened solder into 1/32" wide strips - its original width. "In order to emboss the characteristic "crescent" beads in the solder, I made a nifty little tool from a piece of 1/16" brass tubing, with one end shaped into a half-moon configuration by filing away one side of the tubing. Make sure the tubing is long enough so it acts as its own handle. I laid the thin solder strips on a hard surface and pressed the beading tool into the solder to create the bead. The best part about this technique is that when you're done, you have flexible strips of realistic solder beads that can be added anywhere, to any model. "The strips can be attached with epoxy or super glue, and can be painted to represent seams under a coat of primer, or polished to look like clean, unfinished beads. After I attached the welds to the model, I sanded them just a tad to look like they'd been gone over with a coarse file.

I'm not too sure of the rules on here, so I don't want to break them, but I have saved a tip from another magazine that uses solder. If I'm allowed I'll post it. Disclaimer: I've never tried it.

Got the first half layer of primer down. It took pretty much all day to dry and by the time I finally felt it was dry enough to handle moving and flipping to get the other areas, I thought it was getting a little too chilly to try spraying anymore. Now the forecast for the next 5 days is 62 and rain/51 and rain/53 mostly cloudy/4 partly cloudy/55 partly sunny, so I'll just have to risk it. It's just primer and not the color coats so I should be okay right? I have my air compressor inside and use acrylics, it's the aerosols that the wife hates the smell of. EDIT: I know a lot of people say priming isnt necessary on anything but the body, but it really helps the paint I use (createx) EDIT: Got the other side primed and hoping it dries. Found out something very interesting...it felt dry, didn't really have a smell to it anymore, accidentally touched where I sprayed a 2nd coat and wiped off the first coat.