Harry P.

I love seeing oddball models like this that we don't see all the time. Beautiful work!

I'm not sure. I've never tried to remove it after it's dry. Usually I start subtle, then maybe add another coat or two if I want a more obvious look... but I've never tried removing it after it dries. Of course, you can wash it off with water while it's still wet, if you don't like what you see.

Wow! Somebody obviously did his homework on this one... Just one question... the black number ball is under the chrome side trim? Or did they apply the number and then cut away part of the black circle to expose the chrome trim?

I don't have a specific recipe... the mix depends on where the wash will be used and how dark (or subtle) I want it to look, On the engine I want a relatively dark wash to emphasize all the "nooks and crannies" and molded-in detail like the bolt heads on the cylinder heads, for example. So I'll go with maybe 75% Future and 25% black acrylic paint. On areas where I want to emphasize the detail but don't want the wash to be obvious, like on the chrome trim on the tops of the headlights, for example, I'll use more Future, less black. Basically I eyeball it as far as mixing the wash... I've been using washes for a long time, so I sort of "know" when the mix is right. If I make a mistake, I just add a bit more Future (or black). And of course I only mix a very small amount at a time... no sense wasting the Future. Future is nothing more than clear acrylic, so brush cleanup is just soap and water (I use liquid dishwashing detergent... it's right there on the sink, so it's handy). BTW... using washes is sort of my "secret weapon." People who look at my models probably don't even realize how extensively I use washes, the model just looks "right." I think that using washes adds a lot of subtle detail and takes away from the "model" look. On this Packard, I used washes on the engine (of course!)... but also on the chrome trim strips on the sides of the hood and the chrome strip on the top of the hood, the chrome trim on the tops of the headlights and turn signals, on the dash gauge panel and steering wheel spokes, on the molded-in bolt detail on the luggage rack brackets, on the wipers, on the bumper guards, the detail on the tops of the driving lights, the trunk hardware and latches... pretty much everywhere!

The red wheels might not be for everyone, but it's my model... so I did it my way. Like Cato said, I thought the car looked a bit too staid all one color; I thought the red wheels would give the car a little "personality."

Remember, don't post any hints or answers here. PM me with year, make, and model. The answer: 1965 Brasinca GT 4200 Uirapuru (1964-66)

Another swing and a miss? Geez guys... I'm going to have to hold a Music 101 class! INXS, What You Need...

Nobody??? U2. Red Hill Mining Town.

The trunk is in the kit. I just foiled all of the hardware and then added a Future/acrylic black wash. At first I was going to build a trunk from scratch, but then I figured let's try working with the kit piece and see how it goes.

It's snowing right now. We're supposed to get 1-3 inches. It was 75 here a few days ago.

Now that's one you don't see every day! Very nice work.

It's a really nice color, I like it a lot.

No front grille/bumper?

The spark plug wires come with the kit, but the stuff they supply was too stiff to make the really small bends between the plugs and the wiring looms without putting too much stress on the looms and pushing them out of place, so I replaced the kit's spark plug wires with something more flexible. But yes, the kit does include material to use for the wires. The only pieces on this model not from the kit are the windshield, and the buttons on the golf club compartment doors and the "snaps" on the convertible top boot (pin heads). Oh yeah... I also added a fuel line to the carb...

I use a big, soft brush like this... Because it's pretty big, I can flow on the Future without a lot of small strokes, so brushing it on goes really fast.

The rings are separate pieces.

Future is very thin... almost like water. I've tried airbrushing it but it tends to run and sag... you have to be really careful. Now I just brush it on. I do one section at a time (a fender, the hood, the doors, etc) and let it dry before I go on to the next part. That way I have more control. It's slower than spraying it on, but it works for me.

On the real car the armrests fold under... on the model they don't. You have to place them in little locating holes if you want to pose the model with the seat open.

No Sugar Tonight.

[url=http://s82.photobucket.com/user/harrypri/media/1937%20Packard%20V12/packard13_zpsncervpvv.jpg.html]

One of the all-time classy American cars. Back in the day, if you drove a Packard, you were probably a successful lawyer, doctor, business executive, etc. Definitely a "mover and shaker." They were pricey, classy cars for people who could afford the best. This is the Entex kit, 1/16 scale. A very nice kit… today's kits should be so well engineered! Everything you see in these photos is from the kit with the exception of the windshield, which I cut from Lexan to replace the kit piece, which had a swirl in the plastic. This kit is fabulous… no flash to speak of, parts fit is precise, the engineering is impeccable… the parts just fit, period. The level of detail (and parts count) is very high, and the engraved details on the parts is of the highest standard. Especially noteworthy is the engraved detail on the seat… the wrinkles in the "leather" are very convincing, PROS: Superbly engineered kit, high level of detail, great parts fit, very sharp and clean detail on parts. Option of convertible boot or up top, operating luggage rack with separate trunk, CONS: Doors don't open far enough, frame construction is tricky due to many individual pieces, some of which could have been molded together to make assembly easier. Hood assembly is also tricky due to the tiny, separate hinge pieces that have to be glued in the exactly correct spot in order for the hood to open properly. I used Krylon "Short Cuts" Antique Bronze on the body, with Future as a clear coat... I painted the wheels red, just because I like the look of the red wheels against the wide whites and the body color. Not "factory correct," but it's my model, so I do it my way!