Harry P.

What I'm saying is, through 1914 the firewall was flat, and there was no cowl at all: That changed in 1915, when this design appeared: So my question is, the kit can't possibly be a 1912 T. Right?

I know the cowl shape is wrong. But the small flat part that extends past the hood was a 1915-16 only design, right? Prior to 1915 there was no cowl at all, just a flat firewall. After 1916, the cowl blended smoothly into the hood... so this style (while incorrectly shaped on the model) must be a 1915-16 T. At least that's what I get from the research I've done.

Beautiful work in every respect.

Maybe our resident Model T expert Art Anderson will see this. Or if anyone else knows the answer, please chime in. I just bought this kit. As you can see, it's labeled as a 1912 Model T: Now for the questions. According to my research, Model T's through the 1914 model year had a flat firewall with no cowl. The flat firewall butted right up against the rear edges of the hood, with the windshield on top of the firewall. For model year 1915-16 only, the firewall and windshield were moved back, and the car now had a cowl with a small flat area at the rear of the hood (as seen in the model on the box top). After 1916, the cowl was redesigned to flow smoothly from the rear of the hood, and that small flat area disappeared. That would make this model not a 1912 T, but a 1915 or 16, correct? Question Two: I found only ONE photo of a 1915-16 T with the straight rear fenders. All other photos I found had the normal curved rear fenders that wrapped around the rear wheels. Are these fenders accurate? Were they an option? Or are they just wrong? Question Three: Is this a Model T "Commercial Coupe?" Is that rear seat known as a "mother-in-law seat?" Was that a specific Model T model, or an option, or what?

I built a few as a kid, nothing since. BTW, that Albatross is pretty cool. It's my favorite WWI-era plane.

Sharp and clean. (now add a license plate... )

Plenty to keep me busy in the meantime. I'm working on a 1905 Itala, and a mislabeled 1912 Model T (it's actually a 1915 or 16) came in the mail yesterday.

And besides... given what passed for "roads" back in those days, I'm guessing a little bit of give in the frame wasn't necessarily a bad thing.

I've only used their metallics, and those do not like to go around bends or radiuses (er...radii... ). I'm guessing it has to do with the type of plastic the metallics are made of... maybe the "regular" colors are softer and more flexible around bends. We'll see (I ordered both red and black tapes). In this case, the tape will only be in straight lines along the body and hood sides, no curves whatsoever, so that's good.

Are you kidding? Do you realize how hard that would be to do? Trying to cut BMF into a thin pinstripe and then apply it straight, and without tearing it? Try it and see! Make sure you post the results... No thanks, I'll wait for the tape.

FInal vote: 20 REAL, 11 MODEL. And the answer is... REAL!

A 1/8 version of what you did in smaller scale should make a pretty impressive model. Maybe you should put this project on the front burner and turn up the heat? In other words... get cooking!

Is the window trim and the side spears the foil you added? If so, you did a super clean job. Nice model, that's a real beauty!

There are hundreds of large scale kits available. Go to ebay and do a search. For example, I typed in "1/16 scale" and selected "Toys and Hobbies," then clicked on "Model Kits" and found this: http://www.ebay.com/sch/Models-Kits-/1188/i.html?_from=R40%7CR40&_nkw=1%2F16+scale That one search returned 815 models. And that's just 1/16 scale. Do the same for 1/12, or 1/8. and you'll get tons more.

Thank you all.

Here's the finished folding luggage rack: Not much else coming until I get the pinstripe tape, which won't be for several days at least. I got an email today telling me they shipped it today... six days after I ordered it!

Yeah, the chrome isn't the best. Some parts are worse than others. I'm going to go with what I have, though... no sending out parts for replating. This kit just isn't worth that kind of expense. I'll use foil whenever possible to hide some of the flaws, but it's not going to be perfect. But then again, I like my models to look like real cars as they really looked, not flawless restored show cars that always look a little too perfect and too shiny to me.

A Packard gasser???!!!! I would never have thought...

Ok, I didn't see that coming (Alice Cooper doing Lady Gaga)... However... that song is perfect for AC. Great cover. Go Alice, go! Nice to see him still rocking strong after all these years. And from what I've read about him, there's not a nicer guy in all of show biz. PS: I love his t-shirt!

If you know the answer for sure (you know the source of the photo), don't post the answer! That ruins the game for everyone else. Real or model? The answer: REAL!

Here's a very nice version of Bryan Ferry/Roxy Music's "More Than This" by 10,000 Maniacs with Mary something (forgot her last name), who replaced Natalie Merchant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdRCHKPb5-4

I had to get it right (more or less) because I know you were watching...

Another beauty from you. Just about perfect. Did you do the "Galaxie" scripts on the rear fenders by foiling first, then painting, then polishing the paint off the raised scripts?

On the left side, I drilled a hole into the lower rear corner of the hood's side panel and inserted a short styrene rod "pin." Then I drilled a corresponding but slightly larger hole in the flange on top of the fender that the bottom edge of the hood side panel butts up against when the hood is closed. When I close the hood, all I have to do is grab that rear hood handle with tweezers and slightly pull the hood side panel away from the flange... when I let it go, the springiness of the hood hinges moves the hood side panel back snug against the flange, and that small pin in the lower corner of the hood panel pops into the hole in the flange and holds the hood side down tight (and perfectly aligned). I still have to do the exact same thing on the other side of the hood, haven't done it yet but I will. Then I will have both hood side panels fitting perfectly.

I'm modifying the rear luggage rack so that it will actually operate (fold open and closed). The white parts are styrene that I have added... hinge pins, hinge arms, etc. The "nuts" that will hold the hinge arms in place are sliced off of hex-shaped styrene rod and part-way drilled through to fit over the new styrene rod pins I added to the rack: