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Harry P.

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Everything posted by Harry P.

  1. Why deal with Microsoft at all? Get a Mac!
  2. Here's where to find the cutting mats: http://www.google.com/#q=self-healing+cutting+mat&safe=off&tbm=shop
  3. I didn't know we had a separate veteran's day for Vietnam vets. When did that start? I've never heard of it. Isn't "Veteran's Day" meant for all veterans of all wars?
  4. It's a beautiful model, no doubt. Just a bit pricey for me. But quality-wise, you can't beat it.
  5. You need to get one of those large, "self-healing" cutting mat/work surfaces. The plex is no good... cutting on it for a few days will leave you a work surface with dozens of slashes all over it, plus it'll kill your X-acto blades real fast. The self-healing cutting mats are far superior, and they come in a variety of colors and sizes. Do a google search for "self-healing cutting mat." For lighting... whatever general overhead lighting you have is fine unless you want to change it. As fas as actual task lighting for your work surface, I use an LED magnifier desk lamp. The LED light is "daylight," not the yellowish light of an incandescent bulb or the bluish light of a fluorescent. And LED lights produce zero heat, and they are very long lasting and energy efficient. I wouldn't consider any other type of lighting. I have one like this: http://www.parts-express.com/workbench-led-magnifier-56-led-5-lens-with-3-diopter--350-024?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla Pegboard on the walls is a great idea.
  6. I modified the steering system so that the tiller actually steers the wheels... Up on wheels! I decided to add missing real wheel brake and linkage detail and make this a "proper" 1904 model. Next up... scratchbuilding the top.
  7. If you're missing him over on that "other" web site, why are you looking for him here? Shouldn't you be posting this "over there?" Oh wait, that's right... it would probably be instantly deleted.
  8. Looking at the photos, it's not exactly in "mint" condition. But if it's just dust and dirt, that's an easy cleanup. If the car is legit, it should bring a pretty good price.
  9. That's one way of looking at it (and I agree fully, BTW)... But there are a large number of people who see this forum not as a place to learn and evolve... they see it as their "show and tell" outlet. They post photos of their work in order to have their egos stroked. They are not looking for (or expecting) criticisms or honest comments... they are looking strictly for pats on the back. Is that a bad thing? Well, in the sense that a forum doesn't work that way, yes. Or at least, an unrealistic expectation. If a person posts a model that is really outstanding, and it gets nothing but positive comments, that's great! Nobody says that there must be negative comments or criticism given. But we shouldn't operate under the assumption that any and all criticism shouldn't be made (if valid). That runs counter to how a public forum operates. How many times have we all seen an obviously poorly built model get a bunch of "looks great" comments? Isn't that pointless and silly? To reinforce a guy who posts a lousy model with false praise isn't doing that person any favors... in fact, just the opposite. Undeserved praise is worse than deserved criticism. Undeserved praise just encourages the person to keep on cranking out bad models. How is he ever going to grow as a modeler if we all tell him what he's doing is fantastic–when it's obviously not? In my opinion, it's not right to expect all forum members to keep their mouths shut in order to keep the relatively small number of thin-skinned members happy. It makes far more sense to me to allow the forum to operate as it should, and if you're the type of person that doesn't want any comments on your work, then don't post your work!
  10. This week's car is a Woodill Wildfire, built from 1952-58. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodill_Wildfire Who got it right: mr moto wisdonm Badluck 13 Draggon MikeMc blunc otherunicorn Chris R sjordan2 Johnag4004 customsrus
  11. Find a good photo online, print out to size, and "glue" in place with Future... same way I did the STUTZ badge on the Bearcat I posted recently.
  12. I will be doing a scratchbuilt top. The curved dash Olds had wire wheels only in the first two years. After 1902 they went to wooden spoke wheels until end of production.
  13. There are no "ghetto" areas of the forum. It's divided into different areas of interest and/or subject matter. You personally may not have any interest in a given area of the forum, and that's fine... for you. But just because you have no interest in that area doesn't mean that all the rest of us have to think the way you do. What you consider a "ghetto" area may very well be other members' favorite area. As hard as this may be for you to believe, we all don't think the same exact way that you do.
  14. The rules don't change. If you post something where it doesn't belong, it'll get moved to where it does belong. If you post a topic where it belongs, it won't be moved. That's about as simple as it can be. I don't see how anyone can have a problem understanding that concept.
  15. Ok, I have to ask... do you actually work on that cutting surface or is it just for show? It's so pristine and clean, it looks like it's never been used!
  16. I dunno about that. From what I've seen on this thread, you can wrangle a Pocher with the best of us.
  17. Are you kidding? Your attention to detail makes my partially built Sedanca look like it was built by a slacker!
  18. Posable steering is fairly easy to accomplish on most kits, especially vehicles with straight axles, like older cars and many trucks. Go for it!
  19. It will be moved to the area of the forum where it should have been posted in the first place. Around here we like to keep things neatly organized. You're new... you'll learn... Anyway, you posted this in the section for finished model cars. I moved it here to the "All the Rest" section where we post models other than cars... like tanks, ships, motorcycles, figures, etc. The idea is to keep things separated and organized so we all know where to look for stuff we're interested in. Kind of like the numbering system in the library lets you find a particular book. Oh, BTW... very nice work on the bobber. I like it. I actually built one very similar myself.
  20. Well, I got the tiny little body on this "big scale" kit painted, and much of the engine/chassis assembled. At first I thought about masking off the body so I could paint the red trim, but after thinking about it for a while I decided that it would be too much wear and tear on the paint to do it that way. Too many chances of a knife slip, paint bleeding under the masking, scratching the black with all the masking, cutting, unmasking, etc. Instead, I actually hand painted the red trim with a fine tipped brush and red enamel bottle paint. While painting the red trim, I held the body by that "handle" made of wood scraps that I glued to the body before painting.
  21. And we have our "Clueless Bimbo of the Year Award" winner...
  22. As a little added protection, you might want to consider painting a coat of the clear over the foil once it's applied, just a hair past the edges of the foil.
  23. Look on the bright side... free sandblasting!
  24. Ok, didn't realize that. Sorry, Austin.
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