Decal Art

Just take it a sentence at a time..work slow, do it in order and don't jump to the next thing without completing the step you're on and you'll be fine. This is just a quick outline, but it is complete...I'm sorry it takes a lot of time to do the photo's and only 15 minutes to type up..I chose the 15 minutes..Hope it helps...Art

Hi I'm Art "ChiliDog" Loveland...Here's the "Ultra Quicky" method for lowering the body and chassis ..... of 1/16 F/C's....(though not the most accurate way, it will work, rivet counters need not chime in at this point as this instruction is for entry level 1/16ers),... If you do not have previous experience lowering these kits,... this may be the easiest way for you...You will need a much more advanced method tutorial, that I may do later or pass on to another gracious builder of experience,... to verbally illustrate////should you decide to build a show quality model and not just a nice convincing collectable....please excuse my spelling and punctuation,.. as I am going to buzz/type this up quite fast to save time...and won't have much time to proof read. Supplies needed.... Get some poster board to make some templates and menu card for windshield templates////.ie,/// standard working mans hobby modeling supplies///ie;... a Dremel and cutoff rotory wheel tips, knives, detail hand saw etc.... Before you do anything to the body you will want to make provision to move the engine forward about 5" scale, in the chassis. Mount it to the frame using sprue or sheet styrene (look at reference engine photos here for correct mounting), cut and filed to shape while making the chassis..test fit the engine block in the frame to make sure your mounts are are almost level with a slight forward tilt..a tiny bit does it here.. The frame: Before you mount the rear end differential in the frame do one of 2 things either flip the rear end plate mounts on the frame upside down or create new ones from sheet plastic Being very careful not to lengthen the wheelbase from front to rear any),...the idea is to lower the chassis on the differential so as to reduce the overall height between 1/8" to 3/16" ..Construct the front end per the kit instructions Note that when handling any chrome plated parts be sure to have cotton gloves on..this stuff finger prints easily),(the top mounting rods are added later in the build).temporarily mount all the tires on the wheels and brakes (just to tack fit the parts for height adjustment of the frame)...you want the frame clearance from the level surface the model sits on to clear the frame about 3/16" where the engine plate was located at the frames lowest point...test fit the engine with oil pan so the pan sits 1/16-3/32" above the level surface....you will now need to lengthen the drive shaft by the 5" scale amount that the engine was moved forward...Also you may want to trim about an 1/8" from the four corners of the roll cage if you feel you may have clearance problems later...All this sounds a little tedious... but its not hard as you make think...go slow and be patient.....a special note here to make sure the magneto cap spark plug boots are cut very low and the wire tucked in tightly (or right angled)at that point as the body will have a very close clearance there in that tight magneto area... OK the body... After you've entirely constructed the frame and engine, you can now move on to the fun part....he-he ......find all the bulkhead pieces front and rear///and fire tent that the body mounts to on the bottom side Locate the firewall section of the fire tent...on top of, and in the center of the forward dash area is the rear injector blower/shroud this area will deserve the most attention of all, because the fit really matters in how the windshield will mount in the body, and the shape of the shroud will be reduced to more of a pie shape that will surround the rear of the injector hat and blower rear... take note of these locations and set the tent /fire housing section aside.. think about this relationship in shape as it will shift later when a new tent is made. Also keep in mind in a later step that it is much easier to paint and detail the top side of the tent when it is unmounted and separate...just put it aside for now. OK everything now is fairly critical to get a good fit and body height... Cut the poster board stock pieces the same shape as both the forward bulkhead and the rear body mount/bulkhead respectively (including the shape of the hinge pins in poster board),...Sit the plastic pieces aside...Make sure the poster board pieces are exactly the same shape as the bulkheads front and rear (especially make the shape of the body hinge tabs to because you are going to mock this up later and you will want these tabs to mount the frame in precise),...Now double the thickness of the poster board by trimming it out the same size as the poster board you just cut out, as to make duplicates and glue the poster board pieces thoroughly back to back to strengthen the shape......These are your cardboard rough templates front/ rear, to be trimmed/tailored to fit!!!....Be exact here it terms of cut/ shape/squareness... as if you are off in the slightest, the body will tilt irregularly),..now temperarily tack (being careful not to destroy your cardboard when you remove it again... you'll do this a few times),.. the poster board in the same positions that it would be mounted to the original body (if you are using a resin body and you get lost refer to the original body mounting bumps and mount accordingly), (remember resin body shapes vary depending on model so adjustments must be accounted for in each case)...Now carefully mount the completed chassis on the body hinge plate and lower it...(sits too high in the nose and tail..right?). You just simply trim the poster board on the TOP of the rear bulkhead/clear out the LOWER notches in the front bulkhead and refit the pieces until the body is lowered to your satisfaction over the chassis and tires,,,take a look at the reference photos you see of the car you wish to build and lower it accordingly... don't worry about the interior fire tent tin assembly until your front bulkhead and rear bulkhead mount and hinge are modified to match the paper templates...(it's a good tip at this point to really check everything for squareness so that the body is mounted as straight as possible BEFORE you modify the bulkheads to fit..at this point both bulkheads are pretty much self explanitory.....you trim the top of the rear bulkhead/bottom notches on the front bulkhead(keep in mind on the front bulkhead to leave plenty of clearance for oil hoses etc...Cut the plastic bulkheads front and rear to match your templates......Now's the time!!!..Go ahead and permanently glue the forward and rear bulkheads in place...mount it on the frame notches again with the mounting hinge in the rear....wha-lah///....It should sit right.... If it doesn't, you missed a step...backtrack until you find your mistake and fix if need be, at this point,... before moving on. Now on to the interior fire tent stuff... Try to replicate the shape of the fire tent as closely as possible in poster board and double it in thickness by tracing it out in the flat and then re bend it to shape and tack it for mock up adjustment...don't worry so much about the angled plates that surround the drivers cage, as you do about getting the firewall to rear engine mounting plate correctly aligned in height and frnt./rear location... Get everything square with the body...then match the angled sheets on both sides of the cockpit align and radius the rear(and at this time, add the small radiused section at the rear of the cage last and sculpt to fit.......I know this is not politically correct with plastic modelers to use poster stock for the interior tin but I've pulled it off before and no-ones ever noticed....lol IF I say IF... everything is cut convincingly well, primered, micro-surface sanded and painted to match body color and detailed...(remember orgami modelers use paper all the time and believe me, their stuff is convincing).. if you chose, you may replicate it in sheet plastic....Remember...the bulkheads front and rear support the body on the model chassis.... NOT the fire tent tin assembly...In my opinion this is a moot issue since that structure is for looks only in a model...You'll want to remove the interior tent and paint it in the color of your choice... separate the body/paint the body and thoroughly let it dry to your final finish sets up and repeat as necessary /decal it and dry/thoroughly examine everything on the outside of the body /your clear coat/ let the model completely dry before moving on to any next steps....and then paint the underside of the body and detail it with trusses and supports. Make a menu card template for the front window / cut it out of sheet clear plastic..trim it in flat black from the inside...add some scale rivets or carefully place silver dots of paint with a smooth sanded blunt ended toothpick in silver paint and you're ready too finish your detailing add spoilers ect.......note:... I always install the windshield and fit my chutes/ambilical cord assemblies..ect... last.... Hope this written tutorial helps in correct body /chassis height mounting for model 1/16 70's era F/C's.... Art "ChiliDog" Loveland

I did get your voice mail and I'll get back with you Chris, in the next couple days. Thanks...

Not positive, but I think Chuck has the entire 1/16 decal re-done Chris ...not just the headlights..the color would most likely be closer to the real car too....That original decal in my experience was one of the worst 1/16 decals Revell did...It was way too orange-red and they didn't even get the registration right when they re-popped it in the double kit. Try what you like Chris, but as much time as you are spending on this replica, if it were mine I would find a some good front and rear shot's of a 74-6 Vega like the Tweetie's Rat isolate the headlamps/tailamps with a decent photo manipulation software and print the things on white decal paper on an inkjet....you'd stand a far better chance of getting a more accurate decals of those images than with a kit derrived decal. You shouldn't need a setting solution as the recess in the front bezels are flat in the kit.....Hope this stuff helps.. Art

I really apologise folks for the poor spelling and punctuation in the tutorial...I was extremely tired when I typed this up and it was late before I finished...read it carefully and you will be fine.... Hope to be of help... Chili

Hi I'm Art "ChiliDog Loveland...Here's the "Ultra Quicky" method for lowering the body and chassis of 1/16 F/C's(though not the most accurate way, it will work, rivet counters need not chime in at this point as this inst. is for entry level 1/16ers),... if you do not have previous experience lowering these kits this may be the easiest way for you...You will need a much more advanced method tutorial that I may do later or pass on to another gracious builder of experience to verbally illustrate////should you decide to build a show quality model and not just a nice convincing collectable....please excuse my spelling and puntuation as I am going to buzz/type this up quite fast to save time... Get some posterboard to make some templates and menu card for windsheild templates////. stantard working mans hobby modeling supplies///ei:... a Dremel and cutofft rotory tips, knives, detail hand saw ect.... Before you do anything to the body you will want to make provision to move the engine forward about 4" scale, mount it to the frame using sprue cut and filed to shape while making the chassis..test fit the engine block in the frame to make sure your mounts are are almost level with a slight forward tilt..a tiny bit does it here.. The frame: Before you mount the rear end differential in the frame do one of 2 things either flip the rear end platemounts on the frame upside down or create new ones from sheet plastic Being very careful not to lengthen the wheelbase from front to rear any),...the idea is to lower the chassis on the differential so as to reduce the overall height between 1/8" to 3/16' scale..construct the front end per the kit instructions (the top mounting rods which can be added later in ther build).temporarally mount all the tires on the wheels and brakes (just to tack fit the parts for height adjustment of the frame)...you want the frame clearance from the level surface the model sits on to clear the frame about 3/16 where the engine plate was located at the frames lowest point...test fit the engine with oil pan so the pan sits 1/16-3/32" scale above the level surface....you will now need to lenghten the drive shaft by the 4" scale amount that the engine was moved forward...Also you may want to trim about an1/8" scale from the four corners of the roll cage if you feel you may have clearance problems later...All this sounds a little tedious... but its not hard as you make think...go slow and be patient.....a special note here to make sure the magneto cap spark plug boots are cut very low and the wire tucked in tightly (or right angled)at that point as the body will have a vey close crearance there in that tight magneto area... Ok the body...after you've entirely constructed the frame and engine, you can now move on to the fun part....he-he ......find all the bulkhead pieces and fire tent that the body mounts to on the bottom side Locate the firewall section of the fire tent...on top of, and in the center of the forward dash area is the rear injector ,blower/shroud this area will desrve the most attention of all, because the fit really matters in how the windsheild will mount in the body, and the shape of the shroud will be reduced to more of a pie shape that will surround the rear of the injector hat and blower rear... take note of these locations and set the tent /firehousing section aside.. OK everything now is fairly critical to get a good fit and body height...cut the posterboard stock pieces the same shape as both the forward bulkhead and the rear body mount/bulkhead respectively sit the plastic peices aside...make sure the posternboard pieces are exactly the same shape as the bulk heads front and rear (especially make the shpe of the body hinge tabs to becuse you are going to mock this up later and youl want these tabs to mont the frame in),...now double the thickness of the posterboard by trimming it out the same size as the posterboard you just made as to make duplicates...these are your cardboard rough templates to be trimmed/tailored to fit!!!....be exact here as if you are off the slightest the body will tilt irregularly),..now temperarily tack (being careful not to destroy your cardboard when you remove it again you'll do this a few times) the cardbord in the same positions that it would be mounted to the original body (if you are using a resin body and you get lost refer to the original body mounting bumps and mont accordingly)...now carefully mount the mocked up frame on the body hinge plate and lower it...(sits too high in the nose and tail..right?). You just simply trim the posterbord on the top of the rear bulkhead/clear the lower notches in the front bulkhead and refit the peices until the bodies lowerd to your satisfaction take a look at the car photos you see of the car you wish to build and lowerit accordingly... don't worry about the interior fire tent tin asssembly until your front bulkhead and rear bulkhead mount and hinge are modified to match the paper templates...(it's a good tip at this point to really check everything for squareness so that the body is mounted as straight as possible BEFORE you modify the bulkheads to fit..at this point both bulkheds are pretty much self explanitory..you trim the top of the rear bulkhead/bottom notches on the front (keep in mind on the front to leave plenty of clearance for oil hoses ect...Go ahead a permanently glue the forward and rear bulkheads in place...mount it on the frame again with the mounting hinge in the rear....wha-lah it should sit right if it doesn't you missed a step...backtrack until you find yoiur mistake and fix if need be at this point before moving on. now on to the interior fire tent stuff... try to replicate the shape of the fire tent as closely as possible in posterboard and double it in thichness by tracing it out in the flat and then re bending it to shape and tackit for mock up adjustment...dont worry so much about the angled plates that surround the drivers cage as you do about getting the firewall to rer enginge mounting plate correct and get everything square with the body...then match the anglesd sheets on both sides of the cockpitand radius the rear i(and add the small radiused sction at the rear of the cage last....I know this is not politically correct with plastic modelers to us e poster stok fro the interior tin but I've pulled it off before and no-ones ever noticed.... IF I say IF... everything is cut convincingly well, primered, micro-surface sanded and painted to match body color... if you chose, you may replicate it in sheet plastic....Remember...the bulkheads front and rear support the body on the model.... NOT the fire tent tin assembly...in my opinion this is a moot issue since that structure is for looks only...You'll want to remove the interior tent an paint it in the color of your choice seperate the body/paint tehe body and thouroughly let it dry to your final finish cats and repeat as necessary decal and dry/through your clear coat/ let the model completely dry before moving on to any next steps....Make a menu card template for the front window / cut it out of sheet clear plastic..trim it in flat black from the inside...add some scale rivets or carefully place silver dots of paint with a smooth ended toothpick in silver paint and your're ready too finish your detailing....note I always install the windshield and fit my chutes/abilical cord assms. last.... Hope this written tutorial helps in correct body /chassisheight mounting for model 1/16f/c's.... Art ChiliDog Loveland

Hello Ladies and gentlemen of the 1/16 Drag Race modeling persuasion...This is the draft in request, I have submitted to Revell on their Facebook wall... I respectfully summon our membership here and abroad to flood Revell's facebook wall with similar message bodies to respectfully state strong requests for action ......attn... Revell.. . I'm Art 'ChiliDog' Loveland....I am a front line representative for 1/16 drag racing modelers world wide. Greetings! I have spearheaded a drive in the strong and competent interest of my distinguished modeling public, respectfully but sternly pleading with you fine folks at Revell, to re-release some of the 1/16 drag racing kits from the 70's that we desperately need to keep our modelers actively building in the scale we love. We are becoming quite organized, in fact we have even added our own Facebook page to show our patronage. It's called: Dedicated to Saving the 1/16 Drag Racing Model Car Hobby.. http://www.facebook.com/groups/193675460730528/ We are determined to prove to you that there is a strong and growing number of us that build primarily in 1/16 scale. We wholeheartedly concur that 1/16th scale is THE choice for the gracefully aging and dedicated adult hobbyist, specifically in the drag racing model car hobby and the craft in general here in the USA and abroad. There are many modelers who simply cannot model any longer in the smaller scale due to middle age onset vision deficiency and reduced motor control in the hands directly associated with aging. It is a fact the the model crafting public is getting older! We've grown up! If Revell is going to flourish and survive in an increasingly stagnate economy and in an uncertain economic future,... it needs not only to focus on the needs of the aging hobbyist, but recognize that drag racing modelers as a group will be dedicated in making sure that we also have a future! To that end be assured that although we are a niche derived group of modelers (who are dramatically increasing in numbers), we will be a group that will always be dedicated to buying our needed kits. We are banding together daily and we are going public in magazines, forums, racing organizations, that we will not go unnoticed in the eyes of model kit manufacturers..We're not going away in our persistance to request the kits we need, even though most of us feel our requests and negotiations with Revell have been ignored....You have what we need...Classic drag race modelers everywhere are counting on you to respond... In Revell's own corporate profile it states that it strives to meet the needs of it's modeling public....Let's see Revell adhere to that constitution, and it's stated concern to meet the needs of it's consumers...We're here...we're ready to buy...we have our arms open to negotiation and well, we respectfully summon your attention to our 1/16 needs now and in what we consider to be a positive future for our craft. Gracefully in business and community concerned interest, Art "ChiliDog" Loveland and 1/16 Drag Race Modeling Public

Chris this is coming along fine bro..you're gonna have the biggest smile ever bro, when you get back to wiring/plumbing/detailing adding hardware...Detailing the engine and stuff....that was always my favorite part.... Art

Thanks Jim...If anyone knows the inside workings of getting a kit from factory prep to disbribution you do buddy....I am greatly indebted to you and Tom McEwen both...you've been so important in this venture, it's been great having you to consult with on the phone and ya know what, good folks with good intent and a drive to make things happen is what it's going to take from all the guys to make this thing work. In you, I have not only found a business savvy gent along side me, but a friend.

Some clarification...I've been in contact with Dave Burket and he and I both want to stress that NOTHING...nothing has been written in stone concerning anything with Revell...I think some people have construed my zeal with this venture that there have been papers with Revell finshed and it's all but a done deal....If that is what you thought I was indicating I have not. Negotiations with Revell have begun....that is all. Just because a door has been opened to negotiations does not mean we are smokin cigars and signing contracts and I've never indicated as much. All I've noted is Revell and Model King have had great success with one another and that is correct... Art Loveland

Nick we are just now in the beginning negotiations with Revell on this kit...this is a new venture buddy, I'm sure it will take a few weeks or maybe a couple months for Revell to decide (they are always pokey)...and then the mfrg. process should begin shortly thereafter....the process doesn't take long after that point.....I'd say (I'm guessing here), prolly by August or Sept., we'd most likely see these come available. In reality I do not have a Target date no one does at this point in time...Dave will be on the receiving end of this deal just like we all are.. Thanks Nick Chili

Chuck Boerner....I just wanted to kind of give this guy a small tribute here...I've known Chuck for several years...he's a really good friend. A friend whom I am very much indebted... I can tell an one and everyone here that Chuck bends over backwords to do his very best in helping meet the decal needs for the 70's drag racing modeling craft...Unlike many out here who have only 'scarfed' previous decal images, he draws this stuff up from scratch....He does his best to be honest about licencing when he can and he's strait up...His Alps decals are on the best Tango Papa decal paper out here. He takes the extra time to 'Spot Print' colors needing more depth of color so the image appears more true to life ..He uses a special clear finish and they really turn out nice. I got Chuckl started in decals about 8 years ago. I used to do Chucks artwork on his more tedious stuff,. but he's got so good at it I just handed over the reigns and said go for it...This guys is simply the best at what he does...nuff said... Art

Our incredible Illustrator Jim White slammed up this little pre-production 1/16 model box teaser!!! I like it!

I think the tomatoe red Carefree Duster looks awesome...I'd dig building one of those!

Gene at Slixx was informed shortly after I was off the phone Saturday by Dave to please get us some decals going for these Duster/Darts. Chili D.

And Greg Fox makes several of the 1/16 bodies as well.

Thanks gents...for me it's half the fun looking up the parts on the net and finding out who makes the stuff in resin or photo etched stuff whatever it is,..it's cool to modify the kit body to make it more accurate, or order one from a friend if I don't like the one the kit offers...so what...that's modeling!...Yes it's more expensive to do the aftermarket builds, but look what the results can be for your work...I just can't wait until we pick all these funnies up so I can see what the next release may be/??? Jade Grenade anyone????Just messin'...hee-hee./ Ain't it kinda fun to peek around the corner....lol. Have fun guys.....Chili

Thanks everyone here at Model Cars Magazine ... I have great new news for us guys concerning a kit under the Model King name and brokered partnership with Revell. Note: these are NOT rumors they are facts directly from Model King... Dave Burket the Model King (who has also become my business partner as well), told me to tell you (the 1/16 modeling public),directly that he is going to make every effort to get a deal with Revell! He has already been in touch with Revell's people and it's just a time thing with Revell now...It's been Dave's experience...that Revell can take a while, (not a great length of time),to get the product off the floor and in his hands... Keep in mind...noone not me, not Dave, no one knows what Revell will do with this now...no papers are signed at this point and it's in Revell's hands to make a reasonable profit margin happen...But it is Dave's experience with dealing with Revell that's going to make this work...In fact there have been quite a few recewnt ventures with Revell that Model King has been dealing with....Revell recently visited Dave at the Model King facility in Toms River NJ...so they are on super terms. Now,... I want to put some rumors to rest...Concerning rhetorical conversation that you may have heard about Dave's lack of interest in re-popping another kit or (kit's)in succession.... Dave is not ALL about the money!...Yes he wants to make a profit, that's understandable..but contrary to what the guys out here think about Dave not wanting to get back in this because of slow sales on the other previous 1/16 kits he released, he wants me to tell you directly that it's simply not true. He has several kits that he's released in the past (not just 1/16 mind you), that move slower and he still does them because he liked the subject matter and doesn't care that it takes a little longer to move them...Dave is in the model car business because flat out...he's a modeler, a collector a racecar guy! Selling building, trading in model cars especially racing vehicles is his primary interest and has been so for over 20 years..So you see, Dave's already got money folks he doesn't need count on this sale to be the giant over top boomer that some of his releases have been. He's doing this because he's a drag racing guy,..he's giving it a chance because he's trusting us to help him move these kits in a reasonable length of time, and he likes working with honest drag race oriented people. That's exactly folks what we need out here in 1/16 land... Keep this in mind!!!...Our response to what he is offering us determines how much product he is willing to stick his neck out for guys...so Dave and I are trusting you to give him the sales...my job will be working with YOU my 1/16 modeling public to make this stuff the striking success that I know it will be...I've worked very hard in negotiations with all parties involved but it has been my pleasure!...Dave is a great guy, I couldn't ask for a better guy to work with.... This comes directly from Dave... He wants "Model King" to be 'THE PLACE' for 1/16th modelers and aftermarket to look for 1/16 kits"! And he's going to try every way possible to continue to work with us in the long term if we can make these kits move within a reasonable time frame... You see, Dave doesn't want to release just one kit... and that's the end of it...no..he will continue to offer Revell 1/16 historical 70's kits in succession IF they move...how often they will be released will determine what and when the kits will come out...so if you want to see diggers and funnys from Revell under the Model King label and distribution,.. he wants to be our company! Subject matter and quantity to begin with... The first kit will be the re-issue of the Tom the Mongoo$e McEwen Navy funny car from 1974...I do not know exactly at this point what the box will look like,.. that is yet to be determined. I have the feeling it will appear just as the original , but I do not know for sure. Dave likes to adhere to Revell's historical images on the kit boxes. He is going to shoot for around 3000 kit's of this initial release. OK this is not going to be popular with some of us: The kit will remain unchanged from the original...same tires..everything...Why??? Because Model King has no control over Revell's manufacturing process..He is simply a release broker and re-distributer of their product....he will try and do his best to see to it that we have higher quality graphics on the decal..that's about as far as Revell will go...quality issue advances of course will be implemented. I'm going to call Jim White and Tom McEwen this afternoon to tell them the good news! Of course Tom and Dave are friends so his cut or whatever is required will be their issue to negotiate. OK I hope this clears some stuff up for you guys... and it is my hope you will be pleased with my efforts to bridge the gap between us modelers and a major model kit broker. I will continue to negotiate the kits we want with Dave.. If you have any questions give them to me and I will try and answer them the best I can with the info I get...please do not swamp Dave with calls...I will rep.. him until the kit is released..then if you wish to call him feel free. Your footwork has already been done guys!I'm here to help.... The fact that we have a 1/16 modeling broker on our side I feel is a MAJOR accomplishment... In Modeling Art "Chilidog" Loveland and Dave "Model King" Burket If anyone wishes to call me I'm in Tipton, Indiana 1-765-675-4109 P.S. Aftermarket guys I will be in touch by phone. A special Thanks to Jim White with his fine work in this venture and Ed Sexton at Revell. ...Keep up the good work guys...we all will benefit from this worthwhile project to put 1/16 back in the corp. eye.

New breaking info on Model Kings announcement of a new kit is now localed in a new THREAD entitled..Breaking news Model King Revell and 1/16 ....Thanks guys you've been fantastic!!!! Keep supporting 1/16 ...YOU made this happen...

Great idea buddy!....Good luck! Art

Chris this is dynamite man...I'm really gonna try to dig in and make 1/16 happen for guys like you! You guys ARE 1/16!!!!..Make it happen ...make me proud bro! You are so important to our cause...tell everyone you know a 1/16 70's rrrrRRRevellution is begining! And it is THE choice for the advanced and aging modeler! Love ya in modeling Art the"Chili Dog"

Some of you may be wondering why I'm trying to give 1/16 modeling such a push into action...I've got a very severe case of heart and lung disease...I have 8 stents from 4 heart attacks, the last one in August..The doc says I have 3 years tops to live because my heart is dying and theres no chance I could survive a transplant. I just feel I have enough experience to make a difference in the quality and future of our hobby with the time I have left. Some days it will be hard for me to fuction but it gives me purpose to pour everything into this that I have left. With nearly 40 years specifically in 1/16 I think I'm qualified to spearhead a resurgence of quantity of 1/16 product, and to be a mediator on the business end ,on 1/16ths behalf...That's it guys...thats my reasoning. I don't want any ones pity..God forbid. I'm just trying to earn back some respect...help the hobby and in some way and in the same way show guys how much I love this hobby. I care enough to see that it's slowly dying and I'm counting on the community to throw the hobby a life preserver... Please I'm pleading with you...show 1/16 modelers how much you care about it...It only goes around once..let's make this a celebration of success and not a task...We can do this... Art Loveland Art

Call Revell directly at 1-847-758-3200...Revell itself needs to wake up and take notice that there is a 1/16modeling public out here that demands (not asks for) a product that they, not us have discontinued. Keep in mind calls have been met with many a deaf ear in the negotiations in product developement and management....Revell is now owned by Hobbico ...a privately owned hobby manufactering conglamarante. Many of Revell's people interested in drag race oreinted modeling are no longer with the company.... I'm of the opinion we need to swamp them with telephone calls...there's nothing like good ole fashioned persistance...can't hurt,.. the way it stands we have nothing...what would it hurt? Who cares if someone answering the phone gets sick of it...who cares if coprperate negotiators don't like to be bugged,... screw that theological sheild of resistance ....thats their job!!!! Revells corperate portfolio itself states that they are a company dedicated to serving the needs of its public...let's see that moto enforced instead of just some shallow preface of words only.....This is America folks...WE WILL NOT BE DENIED..got us a long way in this country...If we do not speak up this never ever ever happen...WE NEED 1/16 kits period,... nuff said...... Thank you ladies and gentleman for your support..... Love... Art the Chili Dog guy

Chuck can be reached at stang1forever@yahoo.com Chucks decals are beautiful ...he's my friend, bank on his quality and he's a guy to trust.

Rob Milani has started a new Facebook page dedicated to saving the 1/16 drag racing model car hobby! Please join us to learn more about it. We need all the help we can get to revive this much needed and loved hobby among modelers. Let's see what we all can do to start a 1/16 rrrrRRRRevellution! Here's the link... http://www.facebook.com/groups/193675460730528/