deja-view

1/12 and 1/8 scale are hard to paint in cubicles. That's why I choose my method. My experience in over 50 years of painting models is that using moving air to dry the paint causes the top to dry and not allow the paint underneath to dry or gas out at the same rate. Maybe I wasn't clear. I use only rattle cans so my paint is going on a little heavier than airbrush to begin with. And, yes....I can wait as long as my patience holds out before I have to move a model that is in final dry. That's obviously an advantage over doing constant or mass paintings. I also use automotive paints that need to be completely gassed out so they don't eat back to the plastic. I've only had one self-destruct (a 1/8 '65 Corvette with Plasti-Kote metallic green on it) because I set it in the sun for what I thought was a short time. Not short enough. And one other 1/8 '65 Vette that I used Rust-Oleum primer on. It destroyed the plastic.

During a "Wagon Train" episode when Clint played "Rowdy" Yates if my mind recalls correctly. It was caught by a lot of people.

Not so sure about that. When I was restoring my Mustang the left front inner panel was replaced and one of the cleanup guys accidentally tossed the old panel. I would have preferred having the original VIN stamp cut out and welded back into the new panel, but it was too late. So, in order to restamp the panel I had to go to a Mustang/Ford restorer that was certfied by Ford Motor Company, and had the correct vin stamp dies...including the period correct tiny stars at each end. Maybe the DMV might have let it pass, but I'm not sure because they had a local police specialist come and verify the rest of the VIN stamps before I could put the fenders on, and then sign an affidavit for the new one. It could depend on the state, but I was told that not just anyone could order the stamping dies and do it without proper documentation. I know I sure preferred it that way.

I never use anything that causes the surface of the paint to dry faster than the paint can gas out. I have tried quite a few "oven" methods over the years but the problem was always the same --- dry surface, uncured underneath. That causes paint to shrink back for a long time after you think it's dry. That said, I live in a dry..and usually warm to hot...climate. If I paint in the winter I warm up the garage and keep the temp at a normal level until I'm done. I do a lot of painting outside if there's no pollen in the air (eliminates about 30-60 days in spring and 30 in the fall) because it's generally 70-100 on my back patio. But I do use a special box (boxes) that is shallow rather than high and deep. That way I can get at the sides and lower sections without moving the pieces or body parts. But, almost all my builds are large scale and wouldn't fit into most oven-shape boxes. One of my best paint boxes is from a Pocher Mercedes I built almost 20 years ago. I line the box with aluminum foil or waxed butcher paper, then after I have placed my mounts and holders for the parts I spray the entire inside with a light mist coat of Krylon clear. That pulls all the dust out of the air and glues it to the box surface. The box is sitting on a turntable so I dont have to walk around and stir up dust or anything else. I use regular household A/C filters that fit over the top of the open box. I also shoot a mist coat of clear onto the filter to catch any dust. The filter/lid stays in place until I set the parts and/or body, then after spraying the color coats I immediately lay the filter on top and again mist the outside of it. I can either let it sit and breathe naturally, or turn on the overhead fan from the patio cover (or large stand up fan in the garage) to gently push air across the top of the box. Not enough to actually "dry" the paint because it is protected by the filter, but it takes the fumes away and lets the paint gas out better. I almost NEVER have dust or crud in my paint, no matter how slowly it dries.

It's the "clone" thing rather than paying for/building your own real thing syndrome. The oddity about this trend is that clones at car auctions sell for huge money....almost as much as some real ones, and more than nice, fresh examples of REAL (but not super rare) classics and muscle cars. Years ago when I had my '67 GTO all done I got tired of the inferences and questions so I change my plate to "REAL GTO". That helped. But no matter what muscle or exotic I ever had there were always gawkers who tried to tell me it was either NOT a real "xxxxxx", or that something wasn't correct on it. After a while ya just havta stare at them and they go away. I actually ran into a young guy at a "pit stop" while getting some food who had a '91 Corvette like mine with ZR-1 badges on it. He tried to tell me it was a real ZR-1, and explained why some things didn't match up (like no extra 4" in rear width). Of course, he didn't want to open his hood, even after I showed him my tidy powder coated and P&P'd LT5. It didn't take but a minute or two to know he was a BS'r. Hosted on Fotki I guess he may have fooled some of the folks on the road who don't know about those cars, but why even bother because sooner or later it gets revealed. I've actually seen 'em on ebay trying to sell as ZR-1's when they were clearly not. A GTO vs. a Tempest or LeMans is one thing; or any other muscle car with fake badging, but when the body is different it's just being foolish. This idiot with the fake Z16 was trying to rip someone off. That, to me, is more than ego. It's a crime.

Right. Most states would have impounded that car and never let it see the light of day...which is also unfortunate for anyone wanting a good shell to start over.

Are any of you in Florida close to this place? http://cgi.ebay.com/...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT I'd like someone to look at this car....not sure I trust the seller, or even it's existance. But I'm waaay too far away.

Joshua; You got that Titanic for TWO bucks?? What scale is it? Missing parts or any assembly?

Those XJS TWR's were pretty neat looking, and seem to make a good modeling subject. I don't know how Jag raced them, though, because they weighed a ton. Well, actually, about 2 tons. And, they still had Lucas electrics. They must have carried a bag full of relays and fuses with them.

Yeah...he sure gets around.

Same for me. Nice bunch of guys (and gals), but too hard for me to get out there anymore. Mike Johnson is an old friend, but I don't know if he even makes it anymore, either. Got a big show coming up soon at Railroad Pass, though. Bring a cop car and we'll meet up...maybe.

Hey, Wayne; Are you a "Kit Kruiser"? http://lasvegaskitkruisers.weebly.com/index.html

I have this 57 Chebby stored away somewhere and not quite sure where it is. It is the only 1/25 scale car I have that I really want to build. Are there many of these out there? I hate to start old kits without a "backup" in case I lose or break a part.

Vegas twice, Reno twice. But the Reno nups were the first and the last....to the same woman. Learned my lesson. Vegas is an experience for sure, but some of it needs to not be repeated.

A friend of mine just happened to send me this today: “It is preoccupation with possession, more than anything else, that prevents men from living freely and nobly.” …… Bertrand Russell Man, I am so hooked ....and in so much trouble. And, to further feed our addiction, you need to get on Roberto's mailing list (very nice guy): http://www.icarohobbies.com/index.html

Well, It's really cool, and I hope you enjoy it....even thinking of me and some others drooling over it. In the meantime, I went down to my LHS (Hobbytown) and got this to make me feel better: Hosted on Fotki I have been trying to get one of these for years off ebay, but the price always went beyond justification. This is a new re-release with old box art. I'll put it on the shelf with all my other "must have" projects.

Geez, and I blamed my granddaughter for all those quarters being gone. But how many of you have used a can of paint (big can like Krylon), set it away, and the next time it comes dribbling out from under of the nozzle like a oil well? This seems to be a recent thing for me, but it has rendered useless about half the cans I've bought in the past year. No amount of fiddling or resetting the nozzle helps so I end up throwing them away. It's been the same with spray bottles of household cleaners. About halfway through the bottle the spray handle mechanism just quits pumping and nothing seems to get them going again. Some kind of cheap plastic revolution or Chinese plot to frustrate our simplest tasks I'm guessing. Where are most of our spray cans and bottles filled and sealed, anyway??

Chuck; The more I look at that, the more I like it. Wanna trade for two plastic 1/12 F40 kits and a nice 1/18 diecast? And some cash? And? Seriously, that's about the only stock F40 I've seen that I'd buy. Mind telling us how many clams it cost you (so far)?

Danno; Now THAT is funny. Sorry. Have any of you who have "survivor" cans, and they are working ok, were they used way back when, or is this the first time (like a virrrrrgin)?

I've had a lot of my rattle cans go bad...and some that are not that old. Krylon, Rusto, even some Dupli-Color. I haven't used any of my Testor's or Tamiya in so long I'm afraid to try them. I always assumed they'd be good for years and years. Not so much.

Oboy! I had one of those when I was building military models back in the late 1950's. It was a great model to go with any of the Renwal 1/32 stuff. I have tried to buy one off ebay for years but they always topped $100 and I just couldn't justify it. For $63 I can....even if it sits for years with the Atomic Cannon, 8" self-propelled howitzer, twin forty's, and the rest. I got a start on the AC, but like so many of my WIPs, it is painted and boxed again. Maybe this one will motivate me again.

LOL. I think you're right. But not for $479.

Darrick; We're waitin'

Wow....$16. 10 of those would have scored you from $1400-2000 in profit depending on when you resold them. $16.

It appears that the reason many people don't finish this great car is when they start doing research for detailing they find out how many mistakes Tamiya made. Worse, Tamiya re-issued the model without corrections. I'd much rather have a mock up of the original Aston Martin engine, correct tires, or some other livery markings, than PE parts. In all the pics and info I have been able to gather I think the blue isn't the problem for that early model..but the engine sure is. Try to find pics of that AMV8. Hosted on Fotki But again, Clifford, your version is beautiful.