deja-view

Right. Always store on your own drives, but Fotki is one way to get your pics up on forums. FYI: They use 2 servers to insure safer storage. So far, I like their flexibility once you learn how to use it.

I just found out about this a couple days ago and changed mine from 500X500 to 700X700. It makes a big, BIG difference in how much detail viewers can see. The downside is that it takes longer to load each pic and scroll through an album.

So, Justin....You got a loooong vacation AND a broken handbrake as the cherry on top? Ouch! Daryl; It's the same principle of commerce everywhere: businesses can't carry the government on its back and still pay its workers and owners. Why can't we learn that lesson?

Here's a build from that same period (1990-95). It has won some awards, including "Best Testor's" model at a sponsored show. Also got snubbed at GSL because it was classed as a "custom". I tried to keep this one simple with good paint, some subtle detailing, and a very low-key period theme. The two tone grape pearl and black was a tough job for me, but my daughter insisted. The wheels seemed so much better than the weird originals. The original intricate suspension pieces have been replaced by aluminum rod/tubing. The headlight covers and windows are tinted with real film. The "Countach" lettering under the windshield sun shield took a bit of doing. The engine has a fair amount of photoetch or scratch details, and the big airboxes have been replaced by handmade, chrome, flared intake funnels. Otherwise the engine compartment is true to real Lambos of the time. The exhaust is chrome antenna tubing. The interior is super clean....buuuuut....t does need a couple of things, though. It's too bland. I need to add "patina", or at least some dark accent to the seats, but now that they are installed how do I do it without "dirtying up" the interior? Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Fat fendered chop-tops! Crazy!

Mike; I like what you've done with those. How did you make the hood louvres on the vette? Ken, Rob, and Ray; Thanks so much. It is my wife's favorite. This is one of 4 or 5 models I used to get through a nasty divorce and years of fighting for custody of my kids. They were a great distraction as I got my head back into something I loved doing but hadn't been able to for quite awhile. I'll post up some pics of the other if it's ok (they are equal in importance to my re-entry into serious building). I wish I had known of some of the available parts, tools, and techniques that were coming available at the time. But, even though they al have "mistakes" or things that I could have done better, at least I finished them.

I love seeing everyone's work...no matter the subject. Some of you are so skilled it reminds me of the ships and other large models I used to ogle at the San Fransicso Maritime Museum. I just need another 50 years or so to learn new skills and build all the different types of subjects I love. Anyway, I narrowed down, but it's hard to pick just one or a couple because they represent different challenges. This one has won several large meet awards including "Best Paint", "Best Interior", and then "Best Street Rod" at the NNL West some years ago (but got snubbed at the GSL around 1997 or so). It did end up in a couple of magazines....street rod mags I think. AMT 1/12 '37 Cord as a street rod. All the brass, chrome, and aluminum metal work is my attempt at scratchbuilding. The headlights are Deusenberg if I remember, and the paint is Krylon Rose Pink with pearlcoat and Pactra Pearl Coral. I liked the complimentary contrast. Hosted on Fotki The top is custom made, fully lined, with portholes with chrome trim rings. Hosted on Fotki I don't know if this pic captures the interior well, but all th e wood is real, the turned brass instrument panel is likened to the era of these cars, the seats are all fabric, the gearshift is made from a bicycle handbrake cable, and the tinted windows are moveable, but as you can see...a bit out of scale on the thickness: Hosted on Fotki I wanted to change the look of the side profile by adding running boards, but after numerous mockups with matching polished wood I decided to try this. I think it works better, and the brass step strips keep them from being too bland. The sidepipes are chrome tubing wrapped in chrome steel spring. The tubing is better for scale thickness than aluminum. Hosted on Fotki The underside didn't come out quite as clean as I wanted, but the steel pan and running board supports would have been like the real thing: Hosted on Fotki The trunk was fun because I wanted to get a bit of "street cruiser" by adding the amp and stereo goodies. The floor is real wood with brass strips and there is a tool box, battery, and gas filler. Hosted on Fotki It's hard to capture my odd choice of engine/transmission in one shot, but I don't want to take up to much space. It's a open intake F.I. Ferrari V8 set up to stay with the front drive concept. Getting all the extra coolers, lines, and fans was a challenge in the limited space. The "ceramic" headers collect into spring steel flexible tubing similar to what Cord used in the 1930's. With the fuel lines/rails and wiring it's a bit too cluttered, but the build was before the current trend of hiding all the necessities. It actually all matched up and fit perfectly, albeit without any turbos. Hosted on Fotki

I started this ship last year, but some of the small pieces (from the AA quad guns, I think) wouldn't come off the sprues without breaking. Tamiya sent me more but I never got started again. The detail set is great but it sure adds a lot more time to the build. Or, maybe not if the parts don't break like the plastic ones. I see there's also wooden decks available for even more realism. It's my favorite Naval vessel so I hope I get back to it and also do the Yamato and the Bismark...the "Big Three" of WWII. Watching your build, Chris, is very inspiring. Do you know which paint camoflage scheme you're gonna use? I did the WWII Pacific theme on one side and the plain "no camo" on the other. Makes it feel like I did two versions. Just thinking, I guess I could change the BB number on one side and say it's the MO and the NJ or Iowa. PORT: Hosted on Fotki STARBOARD: Hosted on Fotki

Have any of you dechromed the bumpers, sanded out the mold lines, and had them rechromed? BTW: when I did my '65 some years ago I used adhesive backed heavy foil tape (like used in heat duct repair) for the window trim. It's the right hue because the trim is stainless steel and not chrome. It is also the right thickness, whereas BMF is far too thin. If you can get the plastic trim very smooth, and can do it without cutting into your paint you can do it on the car. I guess you could put it on first, then mask it while painting, too. On my last attempt to revive the model I actually removed both front and rear window trim and stripped and sanded them, but I never got around to laying on the foil.

Holy Bowtie, Jeff! That's incredible. Ian; Not so much. Kitbashing seems to be the most common way to do mods, but there are a few big scale retailers on ebay that have some prts that might work. I'm still waiting (over 40 years) for one of the mfgrs to step up and make a 1/8 scale hemi kit...maybe with several versions. I've been trying to figure out how to use the nice Parma 1/10 scale hemi, but it's right between the 1/8 and 1/12, and doesn't really fit most applications. One ebay seller has resin heads and valve covers for $50+. They would have to be chromed if that's what we wanted. That is just a little too much for the 4-5 parts I'd use. Same for 1/12 scale hemis.

I think you're right Jordan. The old-style Torque Thrusts are hard to find...both for models and for 1:1 cars. But your color treatment looks really nice.

I really should go grab a few of those little signs just to have 'em. If I do find 'em I'll pick up extras if anyone wants one, though I think Wayne can get 'em nearer where he is. That Lincoln. Yeah, baby! I think I have an old Low Rider magazine from the 1990's that has the 1:1 car in it. OF COURSE I didn't buy it for the pics of the girls.

Ooooooooooo...where did you get those wheels? Those are nice! Are they the retro style with the spokes having a "straight" face, or the more modern ones with the slightly curved face? One thing about using the stock fuel pump is you can run the in and out lines to it easily and they show nicely on the engine and in the bay. If I remember right there's steel wire....about 1/32"(?) that you can bend at just the right places and angles, and it looks absolutely real.

That's coming along nicely. Considering the engine and intake I would scrap the mechanical fuel pump and put an electric one either on the frame or right at the gas tank like they did back then. I've seen some nice SW replica fuel pumps in different kits. The more I look, the more I like your grill treatment. When I built my '57 about 15 years ago I opted for the old custom horizontal bar look, but now it seems like the bars are too thick and maybe would be too large in 1:1 scale. Yours is very crisp and clean looking. Hosted on Fotki

I actually faked the distributor in the one I built back around 1990. I actually owned a '65 coupe and still have the factory manuals (1963 and 1965 supplement), plus gobs of pictures. I did the F.I. version, but after having the body warp from sunlight (sad, stupid story) I decided to recreate my own 1:1 car with the Holley 4bbl instead. I didn't have much of the way in spare parts at the time because I had just started building again, so I did not have a decent distributor. It's a little bit awful, but you'll see what I used: As you can see I also scratch/faked the vacuum advance. It didn't matter with the cover in place. Wait. This is better. I have lots of technical info if you need some.

These are pretty much a classic model for the decades....one of Tamiya's best, if not THE best. I have had one sitting untouched in its box for maybe 10 years or so, and would love to get at it. However, it's hard to justify starting another build when I have too many unfinished. At times I have considered trading for the yellow race version, which is also very cool. Buuuuuuuut.... nah. I'd rather have both BTW: Are there pics of this version in other colors besides BRG? This kit is actually impressive sitting in the box: Hosted on Fotki

BTW: I can't read the letters on the yellow one, but the hood decal on the orange one definitely says "GTX 440ci".

Yes...that was it...a 361. It was originally a 2bbl single exhaust which I immediately replaced with a Holley 4bbl and dual exhaust from (I think) a 413 setup out of the yard. It ran noticeably stronger and had enough power to rip my Torqueflight -- twice. Aamco loved me. I loved winding the thing up and pushing that upshift button. It would shift fast and hard. Too hard, obviously. I found a website with a bunch of the Matadors on it. Really cool. But a question for you Mopar experts: Why did Dodge market the Matador AND a Polara that were identical? Back then I never came across the similar-looking Polara, but now see lots of pics of them.

And, she's gonna be askin' for your keys in not long.

Was the 360 Mopar used in the '70s and '80s the same as what I had in my 1960 Dodge Matador? I remember mine looked like a 383, but it wasn't. I had a '58 with a 318 and that definitely looked different.

As long as you don't poke a coil trying to defrost it. Oooops. Sorry, mom.

"Psssssst. Hey, Buddy. Yeah, you. Over here. Wanna buy some 100 watters? Only 5 bucks each. You're not an EPA cop are you?"

I'd like to know by what law of physics a car....especially a '70s-'80s flat-fronted boatmobile like a Lincoln....can run square into the back of a car/truck/whatever and go flying OVER the top of it, and then sail 50-60-70 feet through the air. That has to be the most phony, unrealistic bit of special effects garbage they have ever come up with...over, and over, and over. And, didja ever look at the refrigerators in shows like "Friends" or any other house-based sitcom? Yeah, 1950's Kelvinators and Frigidaires. Like they would still even be working in the '90s, or after 2000. C'mon prop guys, we're not totally blind. That's like having a main character driving a Model T in a modern movie.

Great picture, Curt. Are you smiling at your very first build?

Pat; I use ONLY rattle cans because I just never wanted to fool with the cleanup of a gun. My results seem to be considered pretty well excellent based on the awards and comments I have received over the years, so I think I have set up the best system for my methods. When it comes to enamel I never let the last coat dry completely. Even the instructions on virtually all cans say to lay the next coat withing XX minutes OR after 48 hours. The only reason I would wait 48 hours is if my last coat(s) were not smooth and even, then I would have to wait and do some sanding. I use everything from the standard Testor's and Tamiya spray to Plasti-Kote, Dupi-Color, Krylon, and some Rust-Oleum if I have a good barrier. I search for the color I want first, then mfgr after that. My coats start light, then get heavier as I go. Usually, I never need more than 3 coats total because the last is laid fairly wet. Same with clear, but I like enough to be able to polish until I get my preferred depth without breaking through to the color coat. I do spray multiple parts in a box (doors, hood, trunk, body) all at once if I can to make sure they all are the same, but it's not that hard to tell since my spraying method is always the same. I have stripped parts and started over if I don't like the result, though. About the fan(s): If I shoot on the back patio I use the large patio cover fan that sits directly above to move the fumes away a little quicker, but since the model is under the filter(s) the air around the painted parts isn't really moving. I have used regular fans on stands to blow gently across the top of the box/filter if I shoot in the garage. My garage is a 3-car so there's plenty of open space, and I use a 20" exhaust fan if I'm shooting a whole body. I set the box on a prop like a platic covered trash can so I can get it to at least waist height. Again, the fan only moves the fumes away from the model, but doesn't really move around it because of the filters. It's a method I have perfected over the years, but I'm not saying it's any better than your method. I like having open access to what I spray from above rather than at the side/front. Actually, laquers and enamels dry differently.