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deja-view

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Everything posted by deja-view

  1. My daughter was fortunate enough to drive my pristine 1987 Lincoln Towncar to high school. It was plush, easy to drive, safe, carried her friends, and she never complained. Oh, yeah....it had terry cloth towels on all the seats to keep the upholstery like new (matching color, of course). She was a pretty good sport about it. I did have a friend in high school (1962-1966) who would drive his parent's Citroen. It was that ugly faded blue....not that it could have looked good in any color. It did, however, have that cool automatic leveling system. I felt embarrassed for him. But then, maybe my mom's 1960 Rambler American station wagon wasn't exactly a muscle car showpiece, either. Yeah, my sometimes "ride". It did have something every boy in the school wanted, though ---fully reclining seats (in the era of drive-ins and hidden overlooks for "parking").
  2. LOL. I'm not going to do anything different with the Calsonic, other than add a little detail where it might need it. But I have a very interesting theme in mind for the other R32 that involves custom made decals and a little body modifying. It will be a one of a kind. Of course, this all depends on me getting my work area set up after my move from Las Vegas to Northern California. The move is done, but I can't seem to get my space under control so I can get everything unpacked, set up, and cleared off to work.
  3. OK. It's not uncommon to spend $100 or more for a kit I want, but the extra detailing parts, paint and supplies, any modifications/replacements to the original parts can easily total another $100. Does that qualify for the difference between what the kit costs "off the shelf" and then "complete"? Did I miss anything here? Clear?
  4. Thanks, Mat. I have had that kit still in the box for a few years (just to make sure I have one if they stop producing it). I haven't attempted it because...well, too many projects right now anyway, ...mostly because it's smaller than I want to build. Granted, the "O" scale is very big, and the "G" is big enough to put my grandkids on, but HO is tough on my eyes. I hadn't seen the Revell AG kit built, and yours looks really nice. I wish there was a choice somewhere in between. But after seeing yours, I may reconsider keeping the scale down and saving all that space for other models.
  5. I have a couple of the R32 versions from the original release about 10-15 years ago. They are nice kits, I paid about $125 for them then, and I have only started the Calsonic. The biggest problem I ran into was with crumbling decals. I was able to get a replacement set from Fujimi, and then after applying them I decided to clearcoat with Future rather than any kind of paint. The Future is pretty inert and can be laid over fragile decals. If Fujimi is re-releasing these cars it's hopeful they are producing new, fresh decals. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki
  6. It would depend on how badly I wanted to build a specific subject. For me, it's not always cars. Right now I'd gladly spend a few hundred for a good "O" scale model of the "Big Boy" Locomotive and tender. The good Lionel or other powered versions are generally close to or over $1000. For a static kit with all the details, $3-400 would be better than paying $6-7-800 for the Tamiya 1/12 Ferrari 288 GTO. I've also been looking at the Union Pacific diesels that replicate the ones I see in the yards in nearby Roseville. The "O" scale dummies run about $120-200, while the powered ones go $200-600. They are about the size of 1/8 scale cars, but no kits to DIY seem to be available. So, I guess the answer in real numbers might be ..... nope...can't say for sure. There are a few diecasts and kits I want that have pushed above $1000. I haven't bit the bullet yet, but I suppose it could happen if I can make up a reason to justify it. Think of getting a perfect kit of Winfield's Deusenberg or some of the spectacular 1/8 scale scratchbuilt one-offs out there.
  7. There's 44 of them on my Fotki site. Start here and scroll forward. Hosted on Fotki OOPs. I think this is the link: http://public.fotki.com/dallas916/my-models-built/3.html
  8. Yes....and he's right. I am not challenging the transfer of the details from the real car (which Schmitt, apparently, has in its inventory) to the model. From the art it looks like AMT did a nice setup to build a 1/25 of the real car. But I still maintain that truth is relevant -- especially in the advertising of the real car. AMT obviously copied the info/art for their model, which is ok to a point, but even they should have checked it out a little better before they mislabeled what the car really is. I think most model builders -- especially those who build exact replicas of real cars -- want accuracy in all ways. Schmitt, OTH, is a professional dealer in the business of selling nice cars. They have a DUTY to be truthful about what they sell. Since any factory GT Mustang of those years is worth twice what a non-GT in similar condition would sell for, Schmitt cannot misrepresent a vehicle so badly without repercussions. I doubt anyone here would want to pay the price, have that car shipped to them, then find out it is NOT a factory GT optioned car. Clones and specialty/modified cars are great, but they are still altered versions and did not come that way from the factory or dealer. A modeler probably won't care if his goal is to build what the box shows, but laying out $40-50-60,000 or more for a car with personal alterations is a different story. I am adamant about this point because I see fake GT Mustangs being advertised as real all the time. Those who don't know all the details of the difference get ripped off.
  9. Skip; That's a great kit. I have a couple of those left over from my full custom project about 15 years ago. I started another with something pretty exotic in mind, got sidelined, and never got back to it. So, if you ever need to replace a part let me know. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki
  10. Not sure of your point, Greg. Mine was that the box art says the car/model is a Mustang "GT", and it is not. Yes, the model looks like a nice replica of the real movie car...but neither are a real "GT" optioned Mustang. A badge doesn't make it a "GT". Probably a little ignorance on the part of the model maker, but intentional puffery on the part of Schmitt to elevate the value of the real car. That's dishonest.
  11. That red is beautiful, too. From the pics it looks like the panels and "sheet metal" are scaled to look like a 1:1 car --- unlike most diecasts or plastics that so often are way too thick. Are you sending out your bright parts for re-chroming?
  12. Even the better known makers like Autoart/Minichamps and GMP have put out some questionable cars. I've had my eye on a Minichamps Jaguar XJR GT3 with nice livery, but it has no opening panels or engine....and they still want $100 for it. Recently, I've seen a few others of high name brand with the same situation: nice looking but no real detail. And, some are far more expensive than $100. So, while the quality of the bodies, paint, and trim have gotten better it seems like a lot of cost cutting without price reduction is going on. OTH: I did pick up a Nissan R390 by AutoArt that is incredibly detailed and very well finished. A litlle more pricey, but at least it shows a lot of effort in its build and quality. I think Sunstar started slow, but has obviously elevated its game.
  13. I noticed your wire wheels and chrome are also far nicer than the original "kit", too. So, you took a decent, fairly well detailed model and completely refinished and detailed it to make a finely detailed show piece. Nice Job!!!!
  14. Did you take any pics of the build/rebuild as it went along?
  15. Very interesting about the actual car from movie use...but it is NOT a factory "GT". It has the exhaust run through the lower rear panel, the trim delete on the rear fender coves and rocker moulding, the badges proclaiming it a "GT", and a "GT" gas cap, but none of the other real GT options. A real factory GT would have the GT driving lights in the grill, the factory light switch mounted on the dash next to the power top switch, disc brakes up front (this one has neither the disc brake master cylinder, nor the disc brake pedal in the cockpit), the cheap/standard steering wheel, no GT stripe on the sides, and most certainly not the real GT exhaust hangers inside the rear frame members. The lack of a "dress up" kit on the engine could have been 1st buyer's choice, but it's so easy to make that engine compartment look better with at least one of the several options available. All factory GT's had disc brakes and upgraded suspension -- not an easy conversion. I'm pretty much an expert on factory GT cars of this era after spending 4+ years doing a full concourse, rotisserie, every nut and bolt restoration of my factory '66 GT convertible. I'd still like to have the model, though, since I think it does have the options that cannot be made from scratch without ridiculous amounts of time and screaming. OK....just looked at the kit model again. It does not have the GT lights in the grill, and probably not some of the real GT little stuff. But....I could easily make the lights, the switch, the master brake cylinder, and probably fudge a set of disc brakes for it. What cannot be duplicated that the kit does have are the "Styled Steel Wheels" which were usually part of the GT package. SO, it's a really good start......if you can find one, I guess.
  16. Henry; What primer did you use???
  17. Reminds me of a car I used to see around Vegas every once in awhile: had gold coins glued all over it and varnished or heavily clearcoated. But the car itself was a weird beater, and not the really nice Elvictamino Steve has done.
  18. Interesting. I'd like to have one of those but it says "out of stock". Checked ebaaaay, and there's none listed. Is it old or new?
  19. Probably my first Ala Kart kit in 1960 or so for about 1 dollar. But that doesn't really count 50 years later. Maybe not seeming like a "bargain", but a few years back I got a mint 1/8 scale Entex M23 McLaren with TWO sets of perfect Marlboro decals for $300 if I remember correctly. I couldn't bear to build it, and sold it a year or two later for $1000+, and then sold the second set of decals for another $75. But for kits I absolutely plan to keep and build it would have to be my Bandai 1/12 scale 1969 Corvette that the seller carried all the way from Australia and handed to me. I think I paid $50 for it, and I've only seen one more in 10 years....and bought it, too (for a lot more than $50. One will someday be converted to a replica of my long gone 1973 Corvette coupe. Wait. Would snagging 3 Pocher 1/8 scale Porsche 911 (993?) kits for $90 each count? I think it was Model Empire or ModelExpo, around 1996-7. I built them all for customers, one into a bright yellow cabriolet with a nice canvas top. Not the best models that Pocher made, but with patience, a lot of extra detailing, and a whole lotta paint they can be done up pretty nice.
  20. From 1948 the only one that stands out is the '48 Chrysler Town and Country convertible. Or, maybe that Tucker thing.
  21. The Pontiac Aztec edges out the new Rolls Royces and every other current "stylish" hump with a grill like a MAC truck and swollen fenders like an old VW.
  22. I remember when you used to see a lot of Cadillac engines used in hotrods and cruisers. Of course, that was back in the 50's and 60's.
  23. That's looking great, Richard. All you need is to put a set of dimpled clear plastic seat covers over the originals. I can still feel peeling myself of those if I wore shorts.
  24. But that's just part of racing. The danger is what attracts most viewers in the first place. You wouldn't shut down an entire factory because a worker is killed in an accident, would you? There are thousand of people who's income depends of these races....some make a year's wages on one race they can work or supply to. I don't think Le Mans has ever quit a race because of a death or bad accident -- and there have been plenty of both.
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