JohnU
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Posts posted by JohnU
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Eh…don’t mind me captain. I’m just a tourist here and don’t visit often. Usually only to harvest a nugget or two of info that catches my eye over the years. Probably should have minded my own business. Guess this is what happens when I decide to comment a couple of cocktails in! Just couldn’t help but notice though, what seems to me, a lot more snark on the forum threads I tend to visit than I remember. That’s all I meant. Nothing personal! And oh, I get the idea of “spirited discussion” -yada yada ya. Just maybe a little more tolerance for us neophytes maybe. And yeah, I suppose it’s up to the Mods to decide what’s what. So, maybe it’s just me, being too sensitive when I imbibe while internet surfing seeing bullies and demons to defend against! With that, carry on! Didn’t mean to disturb the natives!
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Seems some of the kids that were put in “time out” are back in the sandbox again!😜
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I subscribe to the channel!
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Aah…the old “assume” conundrum!
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On 5/10/2021 at 2:01 AM, peteski said:
To me it looks like he replaced the plastic parts with scratch-built brass lifter and pushrod. Looks like pushrod is a brass rod soldered inside a larger diameter brass tube (lifter). Then the end of the lifter that is in contact with the cam lobe is beveled (usually lifters have flat bottom).
Glad I came across this thread! So, a while ago I bought the original Renwal kit to build again like when I was a kid from EBay. Long story short, it didn’t have all the clear engine block parts. Everything else to make a running model was there and worked! I bought the Revell kit from HL with 40% coupon (before they discontinued) to complete it. After seeing this thread, I compared the parts in question here and found what might be the problem. I posted pictures for reference. The first picture is the Renwal part sprue the second picture is the Revell part and the third is a side by side comparison. Looks like Revell screwed up the mold and rounded off the tops of the lifters! This also added material to the hight as well! Did a measurement of a random part from each sprue and found Revell added approximately .020 in. to the lifter! Renwal is .550 in. Revell is. .570 in. at the lifter end! The rod end looks to be about the same. I suppose if you’re careful about sizing the length of the total rod and lifter it shouldn’t matter. Just thought the radiused lifter was curious. Was Revell trying to make an improvement? Think I might stick with the flat Renwal parts. I remember my original build when I was a kid worked! Although, my Dad did help with the electrical part!😜
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On 8/5/2021 at 6:28 PM, Snake45 said:
My WM has been that way for two or three months now, maybe more.
Probably supply chain issues
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Or just don’t use it. Canopy glue, PA glue, clear epoxy is better. I got away from the super glues all together for most, and I mean most everything that’s final assembly. Still use for mock ups. Never on clear parts. Done with that!
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6 hours ago, peteski said:
Vallejo are water-based paints while the ones I mentioned are "stinky" organic-solvent based paints (like Testors PLA enamels). Testors did also make water-based Acryl line of paints, but we still don't know what type of paint (water-based or "stinky") Spooky 52 is looking for.
He did say water wash up in parentheses.
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1 hour ago, PatW said:
I had all the prob0lems that all of the above have had over the years. A plumber friend left some what he calls 'Plumbers Tape' one day as a reel had nearly run out. A little bit thicker than BMF and nice and sticky I used it on various kits. All needed was a good sharp craft blade. Superb! All I now ask for at my local builders merchants is 'Plumbers Tape'. Oh and it's far cheapy on a big roll instead of a small sheet or two!
What are you talking about? I tried googling “plumbers tape” and all that I could find was PTFE thread tape! Got a better clue of what you mean?
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Well, better over shot than under shot! Parts should be fine but, you got a little trimming to do there!
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On 6/11/2021 at 9:48 AM, ranma said:
The NOID ! Sorry, But I actually like the little guy! There was a real person with that last name, and he held a domino's hostage. The commercial's weren't the problem It was the jerks that teased/razed him because his last name was Noid! People sometimes are cruel, or go overboard with the teasing. Besides the little guy just likes Cold Pizza! Heck I eat cold left over pizza. Cold fried chicken can be good too!
I can’t stand this thing! Aside the poor guy that committed suicide because of it, they incessantly run this commercial until it would drive any sane person nutty!
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Really? Nobody’s brought this abomination up yet! I still can’t believe they resurrected this thing again considering it’s history!
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Look. I get that this is the “off topic lounge” where anything goes! There’s plenty of fun topics here that I enjoy so I’m not going to “just not look here” as suggested. I was just hoping that maybe the morbid reminder of our mortality could be relegated to a single thread to be added to and perused by anyone wishing to! My thought was, there might be others that may feel like I do so it’s just a suggestion not a demand. I realize that when a kid not part of the clique appears on the playground, there’s going to be pushback. So really, critics, you can back off on the sarcasm! I’m not trying to push you off the swing!
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26 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:
Umm, I may have some bad news for you....😬
😜
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For all the OCD posters that find it necessary to post here every celebrity death that is already public knowledge thanks to standard news media! Jeez!
Thank you for letting me vent! This probably should be in What Irked me Today but figured a separate topic might encourage my point. I like to come here to enhance my enjoyment of the hobby and all I see is dead people!👻
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On 5/12/2021 at 10:13 PM, peteski said:
Maybe in few more years, when more grumpy old modellers kick the bucket, and more yutz join the forum, the views on the like button will change. But we don't know if the forum even has that capability. If it was by me, I would keep it "like-free". Yes, I'm grumpy, but nowhere near as old as some other members here.
If there was a button, I’d give this comment a “Like”!👍😜
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The first time I tried the foil under paint for fine script I was puzzled about how to concentrate an abrasive on such a small area. Then I found in my pencil cup an old eraser “pencil” the kind used by draftsmen back in the day before CAD took over for blueprint drawing. Was able to shape it down to a point fine enough to just rub the paint off the high areas of the script! The abrasive in them are perfect for removal of paint because I think they were designed to remove ink on paper. The one I got I’ve had since my apprentice days many moons ago! A light touch is all you need to remove paint, then a buff with a soft clean cloth.
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39 minutes ago, Dave Van said:
Been covered a lot earlier in this thread the 40% was going away. BUT models have been 40% twice since the coupon went away.....so.....
Well, I used to use it for other things other than models that HL provided. I recall using it recently, maybe a month or two ago for my wife’s baking supplies. I literally just looked at my app and discovered the coupon option is gone! Considering I have a small hobby shop full of kits anyway, don’t really mind not using it for that. They weren’t always the best price or selection. At least in my neck of the woods. Seems their data base was recently hacked too!
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Looks like they stopped their 40% coupon at the Stow Ohio location plus the coupon doesn’t show up on my HL app either!
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10 hours ago, peteski said:
It is really not that complicated. You can clearly see that the hardener comes in a smaller size tube, so it would make no sense to dispense a full (smaller) tube of hardener, to a partial tube of putty (to get equal amounts of each). What Jon meant was to dispense equal percentage of each tube. So 1/3 tube of hardener and 1/3 tube of putty.
If you read the actual instructions, it gives you more info about the mixing ratio. It is really not difficult.
Well now, percentage makes more sense and clears the confusion for me!
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4 hours ago, Jon Cole said:
X2. A 2-part putty is the best way to go. One part filler, one part hardener. Use equal parts, NOT equal amounts. The tube of hardener is smaller then the tube of putty, so your equal parts won't look equal.
Wow! I would have gotten that confused pretty quick! Would not have expected equal parts not to be equal amounts! Thanks for the heads up! What kind of a mess would that have made?
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Thanks Pete for the link! Mineral oil it is. It’s funny, I just read through the newer Revell version of the visible v8 kit and it says to use vegetable oil as a lubricant! But I’ve seen vegetable oil age, dry out and get gummy in a small bowl so, I don’t think I want that going on inside this finished model!
Anybody tried Bondic yet?
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted · Edited by JohnU
More info
I’m using it right now to assemble the clear parts of the Renwal visible V8 engine. Cures up rock solid with no fumes like two part clear epoxy! Instructions say to expose the UV light for ten seconds but I used it for at least thirty seconds at each joint. These parts aren’t going anywhere! Built this kit when I was a kid with the old tube glue with reasonable success but man, wish this stuff was around back then it would probably have been much prettier without the clouding and smudges!
Theo, thanks for the heads up! I’m diggin that Rayovac UV light! Might have to make the small investment for one to use on more applications.