JohnU
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Posts posted by JohnU
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1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
HA!!!????!!! Love it!
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Has anyone tried using it to restore hazed plastic headlight lenses on actual cars?
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15 hours ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:
Tom, I'm not saying it works 100% yet. I'm just trying something different and trying to have a discussion about it.
Going to do some more tests to see what can be done.
Been following this and had an idea you might like to try. How about putting a small bowl of water in the microwave with the styrene and let it steam up. I’m not saying to put the plastic in the water but put them both on the platter together. Or, why not! It’s an experiment right? I’m guessing the steam may get things hotter and the plastic will soften more than with the microwaves alone. Since microwave radiation excites water molecules to do cooking, plastic doesn’t have much water in it to “cook” it per say. Although I have ruined a few Tupperware containers over cooking my leftovers!?
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In the meantime, trucking companies still can’t find enough drivers!?
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Try one of these. Guillotine paper cutter. If it’s sharp and ridged enough it could probably handle thin tin or brass. I’ve used it to cut strips of aluminum from soda cans.
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On 7/18/2019 at 5:31 PM, Dave Ambrose said:
This has been making the rounds lately:
I'm posting this with a heavy heart...?
As much as I love working on, and building model cars, it takes up too much of my time and I am struggling to keep up with the everyday basics such as cleaning and helping with my home, so something has to give. I will be getting rid of my collection.
Below is a list of what's available. Serious inquiries only please and don't insult me with your offers.
Thanks for reading and understanding...- Dustpan and brush
- Sponges
- Dusters (feather type!)
- Mop and bucket
- Window cleaner
- Vacuum
I’m laughing at this one because my wife’s cupcake forum posted the same joke as it relates to the baking hobby!
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1 hour ago, Brian Austin said:
There's more to life than muscle cars! :-)
WHAT!!! BLASPHEMY!!!!???
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This is awesome! Love the 63 Fury! I’m inspired to try this myself with my kits as well! Please keep up the great work and info!
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All righty then, I think I have the information I need now. This is the first time I’m using filler to fix some minor body sink holes. Usually I just block sand the plastic down and highlight the low areas with a pencil and repeat until it looks good to me. The current project I’m working on have some pretty deep ones that will require more attention. Thanks for the feedback!
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So, I did a google site search and didn’t find a really definitive answer to this question. Most seem to use filler before and a few use it after priming and sanding when the need is visible. I guess I’m looking for an advantage over either for the best stable results. Thanks in advance!
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On 3/14/2019 at 3:13 PM, Snake45 said:
I'm thinking about squirting about half a can of Easy Off into the Purple Pond to "juice" it up a little.
Whoa, I’d be real careful about doing a kitchen chemistry experiment without being real sure there isn’t an unexpected dangerous reaction with some unknown constituents in these two products! Kinda like with bleach and ammonia! Just saying, be careful man!?
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What about dykem remover? I’m a tool and die maker and we use it to remove dykem blueing, magic marker, and paint from steel all the time. I haven’t tried it since I’m not sure what the recipe of Acetone, Ethanol, N-Propyl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol would do to plastic models. Although, I have cleaned plastic storage bins with it without any dire reactions. It tends to evaporate so fast it seems to not have enough time to do any damage. Just a thought since we’re throwing stuff out there!?
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4 hours ago, Pete J. said:
I've made a bunch of purchases like this on eBay. I follow a very simple process. I decide what I am willing to pay. I wait until the last day and that is my one and only bid. If I get it for less(it does happen) great. If I get it for my max bid, I got it for what I was willing to pay. If I don't get it, there will almost always be another one out there soon. I don't worry about it! Getting tangled up in a bidding war pretty much assures that you are going to feel like you overbid in the end.
X2
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How about trying to use Avery labels to print your masking pattern? You can find an assortment of different sizes at any office supply stores. Haven’t tried it myself but your question was intriguing and got me thinking. If you position and print your design on the label then trim and stick it to the model it might work. Although, the label being just paper and not technically a mask, not sure about any bleed through. I would try applying a clear coat over the label first before trimming and applying it to the model in that case. Again, this was just a thought experiment maybe worth a try. Good luck!
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10 hours ago, ChrisBcritter said:
Don’t know what the problem is on my end but clicked the link and I got a naked Malibu Ken doll!??
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Been following this topic and by no means do I have first hand experience but, considering any attempt to soften the plastic may soften the paint as well, I would think that the paint may get damaged while manipulating the plastic to straighten it out. If this was my project I think I would just strip it first then try any or all the great ideas for softening and straightening it then repaint! Just my two cents!?
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I’m seeing ads for dating Ukraine women in my neighborhood. How do they know my ethnic background?!
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1 hour ago, Flat32 said:
The tool "makers" and anyone directly associated with the actual tool building make the distinction while the folks that don't get their hands "dirty" touching the tools tend to just call it all tooling. From a toolmaker's perspective the rest of the world consists of a sub species that "he" "might" label as "lay people". I'm a tool and die/mold maker.
I’m a tool and die maker as well. Built and repaired enough “tooling” in my time to understand the subtlety’s of the nomenclature. So, as far as where I come from molds and stamping dies are all “Tools” for making parts. I’m just trying to figure out what’s the point of his comment?
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On 5/5/2019 at 7:23 PM, Daddy Mack said:
Ummmmmmmmmm. No
There was NO annual 'tool' and a different Craftsman 'tool'. I have the annuals AND the Craftsman kits. They are the same body mold.
I worked in a PIM shop. The only people who call molds 'tools' are lay people.
Reeealy!? I’ve been in the Tool and Die/plastic injection mold industry for the last forty years and everyone I know from design engineers to set up personal all call stamping die and injection mold assemblies “tools or tooling”! Wow! Guess we’re all “lay men” in the industry!?
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On 5/7/2019 at 4:47 PM, JohnU said:
Other than the box art, there really isn’t any difference between the European and US version right?
Oops! Should have read the first answer to this post!?
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Other than the box art, there really isn’t any difference between the European and US version right?
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22 hours ago, peteski said:
Not that I have noticed (and some of my setting solutions are around 30 years old)! If the "Sol" smells like vinegar (acetic acid) and "Set:" smells a bit like alcohol, then they are likely good. But there are lots of different decal manufacturers using different formulas of inks and clear film. Even the same kit re-released some years later could have decals made by another company. Some decals are very thin and easily melted by the setting solutions while others are very stubborn and even the Microsol will not affect them much. For those I use Walthers SolvaSet - the strongest setting solution I have encountered.
I have at least half a dozen different setting solutions, and sometimes it takes some trial and error to find the one which works the best on certain brand of decals.
Thanks for the practical advice! Been researching for an answer to this problem and came across Walthers brand as a suggested solution somewhere else on this forum. You just confirmed it and you’re right, it seems some of the newer kits supplied decals are tougher to work with than they used to. I see Micro-Mark carries it and will have to give it a try. Thanks again!
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Got a question about micro sol and micro set. Is there a shelf life for these? I’ve had some for a couple of years and have used them with good results. But recently I tried to get some decals to settle down while working on a revell black widow and neither did anything! In the past I’ve used both products and watched as the decals almost dissolve and melt down in place then dry perfect! This time, nothing! Do they lose their potency over time?
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I thought this stuff was only for blocking mildew stains on drywall so I have a question about using BIN zinsser on plastic. This product must be kinda thick for airbrushing. Do you thin it? With what and what ratio? Thanks for all this helpful paint info! If this really works it’s gonna make my paint jobs a lot better for sure!
Still there -Try this:
Robots are invading ?
in The Off-Topic Lounge
Posted
Or require medical insurance, maternity leave, a pension, special work requirements, a safe place because of any kind of harassment.... get the picture?!