JohnU
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Posts posted by JohnU
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How about old dried up click type ball point pens?
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1 hour ago, Can-Con said:
I just put "Mustang decals" or "Dodge decals" or whatever in the header. That way he knows it's about decals.
Good idea! “Decals” is the secret password!?
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Well, that’s the email I used. Frankly, I only need and prefer to keep one email account myself. Guess I’ll try again and use the term “this is not spam!” in the heading. Although, if I received an email with that in the heading I would be suspicious!?
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I tried to email him to purchase some decals once and never heard back! Must not know the secret high sign, handshake, password or something to get a response!
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18 hours ago, minkos said:
Kit is the Northwind type and I've got the windows glued in against the roof as far as they will go, I think.
Good to know. I haven’t cracked into this kit yet just going by the box parts layout. If it’s any consolation, the heads up about the glass fit issue is greatly appreciated for when I get around to building this kit! I’m sure you’ll get this worked out!
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Is this an older kit? Does it have a one piece windshield back glass? I have the Northwind edition and it has separate pieces. Your first two pictures looks like the glass isn’t sitting up tight to the roof and could be interfering with the tub fit. I’m always fighting with those one piece glass parts! They’re usually the first thing I work on before painting anything!?
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I think some of the drag racer kits may have fire extinguishers that could be modified to look like nitrous bottles
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Easy there Big Daddy! I too can appreciate the frustration of the sound of crickets from this board when asking for advice. Some of us are just looking to save some time by asking questions. I’ll do my own testing as you all so helpfully suggest even if there’s a response. Seems there’s plenty of bad as well practical advice and one needs to sort the “wheat from the chaff “ as it were.
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I totally agree with the distilled water use for decals. If I remember correctly it was recommended in the kit instructions of a model I built as a kid! Don’t remember which one though! Has to do with dissolved minerals in tap water. Been using it ever since without a problem.
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MicroMark sells a product called Pick-n-stick. They’re a plastic stick about the size of a match stick with a ball of sticky substance that reminds me of the stuff they use to hold new credit cards to the paper mailer on the end. Come in real valuable for handling tiny parts for painting or positioning if you’re all thumbs like I am. And they’re reusable
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I really have no use for Hobby Lobby for models or supplies in my neighborhood. Whoever is maintaining this isle apparently could give a rats “you know what” about it. Kinda reminds me of a Michael’s model section!
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1930 Rolls-Royce Phantom II Sedanca de Ville from Disney’s Gnome Mobile!
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I believe the “original” Magnificent Seven is the 1954 Japanese made Seven Samurai.
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3 hours ago, Richard Bartrop said:
It seemed a pretty simple, straightforward request, but it seems people instead see another opportunity to moan about "kids today"
X2
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6 hours ago, Muncie said:
It's art, it's won awards at big car/rat rod shows - have seen it a couple of times and had a close look - the metal work and art on the cab are amazing - If you see it in person, you won't walk by without taking a longer look.
Well, considering that art is subjective and a Jackson Pollock paint splatter is considered art as well then neither is my preferred taste in art. To each his own I guess.
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19 hours ago, Olderisbetter said:
Thanks for all the replies and advice. Maybe time to get the sandpaper out.
Maybe try some rottenstone or pumice with a damp toothbrush to prevent damaging fine details. I’ve seen it come in 600 grit. These inert powdered abrasives might remove paint without melting the “plastic” and should rinse away with nothing more caustic than water. Just a thought!?
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Anybody have any tips for using this paint on a model? Like thinning for airbrush and primer to use? I have a project for which it’s the perfect color! It’s azure aqua poly for an early sixties Chevy II. Have some sitting in my eBay watch list but am holding off until I learn more about it. I have checked the Color Right web site but instructions are for the intended use only not the mild alchemy us modelers use!? Any input would be appreciated!
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Yea, I’m from Cleveland and it’s here in the Rock Hall of Fame last I checked.
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Looks exactly like the one my dad drove into the mid eighties! I remember him bringing it to my house to have me solder a radiator leak before trading it in for a new 86 t-bird!
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2 hours ago, bill_rules said:
I used the chrome pen to touch up a chip in the chrome on my 1/1. After about 3 months it was gone and looked just as it did before I applied it.
Your actual car with real chrome exposed to the environment? Gee, how could that happen??
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Just think it’s funny that the same old crew come out and bicker over the same old thing EVERY time a new or retooled kit comes out!????????! Sometimes it seem it’s as integral to the hobby as building!
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On 9/19/2018 at 11:30 AM, crazyjim said:
I thought Ambroid went bye-bye along with Tenax?
Weld-on number 3 is pretty much the same thing
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So I take it this is a new tool? I’m surprised there wasn’t any fanfare leading up to its release! Unless I missed something with Revells business hiccup. I’m very happy to see this one and hope they can get a 69 out of this as well with accurate rear taillights! Now I have to decide if I want to keep my die cast samples!
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49 minutes ago, Belugawrx said:
Marrying my X-wife...Dohh?
Why? Was she a model??
Good sources for coil springs
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
https://www.leespring.com/browse_catalog.
Or try here