[WIP: 1/16 '68 Mustang Pro Mod]

Thanks for the comments everyone. This is going to be a big challenge, but it has been a blast so far.

Chris, both of my machines are Sherline. I bought the lathe first, then built the mill piece by piece as I could afford it.

Here's my set-up back when I first had it all together. Not near that clean now.

My TDR parts should come today, so I should have more soon.

Clay

[WIP: 1/16 '68 Mustang Pro Mod]

Hopefully you guys don't mind me playing along with the rest of you. Love seeing all these Pro Mods getting built!

This will be a fully detailed 1/16 Mustang Pro Mod. I'm doing it as sort of a fictional car again. At least the paint job, and the choosing of components. I'll try to make it as accurate and believable as possible, but not a replica of any certain car. I'm starting off with a resin '68 Mustang body from Flashpoint Resins. This is the third one of Terry's large scale bodies I've bought, and I think it is my favorite so far. It's cast well, and has some serious attitude and rake. Perfect for a Pro Mod! I've got a few ideas in my head for paint and graphics, and if all works out, it should be pretty cool.

I'll also be using some parts from some other great folks. Jim from Micro Nitro is turning the wheels and other parts for me, and I'll be using plenty of brass etch from Dirt Modeler. I plan do to a lot of machining on my own as well. A BAE block, heads, valve covers and so on are all on the machining list.

I'm basing my chassis off of an R2B2 design. After gathering as many pics as I could I started drawing the chassis plans in Illustrator. I work out all the kinks and measurements before I ever start cutting. Plans only get me so far, but they are a great foundation for a well built and accurate chassis.

Here's my stack of photos to get started. I print everything out on glossy 8X10 paper and keep it right beside me as I build.

Once my chassis is all drawn from the side, top and whatever else I need, I print those out and tape them to some metal sheet. This way I can use magnets to hold my parts in place as I work keeping everything in line, and flat. Something I learned from Michael at dirt modeler that really helps my chassis work. For this chassis I'm using .100 rod for the main bars, 3/32 tube, .080 rod and smaller for the rest of the bars.

I start with the floor first, then the main hoop, then the upper frame rails. I've also started adding the first parts of brass etch as you can see.

I'll also be using the dirt modeler dzus tabs where needed.

Here's a quick shot of the chassis so far along with the FP Mustang body. I need a bigger photo booth. This thing fill sit up!

I have got started on a little bit of machining. I decided I wanted to try the clutch can on my own. After laying out all the measurements first in the computer, and getting all my cut points established, I machined a new one from aluminum. Still needs detailing obviously. this is right as it came off the mill. It's drilled for some aluminum rod that I will slide on the tranny pieces later. I may chuck this back up and thin the flange down some. Haven't decided yet.

For a bit of size comparison, that is my second version of Roger Burgess' Firebird chassis in the background. 1/24 scale compared to the new 1/16 chassis.

My next goal is to update the seat, get my pedals and hand brake all worked out, and get the tranny mounts in. Then I'll finish off the rest of the cage, and get started on the rear clip.

Thanks for looking!

Clay

[California Charger F.E.D. update]

Beautiful work Bill. An absolute work of art! The first pic on your second post from today blows me away.

Clay