Monty

From what I've seen on this & other hobby boards, the heavy flake issue seems to be a random issue within the Testors One Coat lacquers*. For instance, the Inca Gold and Mystic Emerald are fantastic colors, while IMNSHO, the flake kind of overwhelms the color on Diamond Dust, Graphite Dust and Star-Spangled Blue. If they could get the flake size down like Tamiya, I'd be thrilled. *Old-style Testors metalflake enamels were usually listed as such so you generally knew what you were buying.

Next time, point the nozzle toward the model and save your $1.00 bills for more paint. In all seriousness, many of the colors in this line are beautiful, but I despise the size and amount of flake Testors dumped into some of them & as such won't use them.

Here's a list of '57 T-bird colors. http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?year=1957&manuf=Ford&model=Thunderbird Since you mentioned that it leans toward pale yellow/cream, I'm guessing you're trying to replicate Ford's Inca Gold. I'd suggest starting with Testors Phoenician Yellow.

Are you missing pics or what? Must be nice to be able to get results like that in that scale. Excellent work! Now go finish that Ferrari

Pen name, P/N and name of retailer would be appreciated.

Thanks for all the ideas, guys! Lots of viable solutions, but I think Mike's suggestion will work best for what I'm trying to accomplish, especially in regard to how the bar attaches to the trailing arms.

I've taken a couple tentative shots at starting my Lindberg '67 442, but I need some advice on increasing its accuracy. If you've built the kit, you'll recall that Lindberg tried to mold something resembling a sway bar onto the rear axle, but for some reason they chose to fill in all the space between it and the axle with styrene, making it look more like a braced drag racing rear end. Here's a pic I found of a completed kit that someone built without modifying the rear axle. Long story short, I ended up filing the sway bar and its excess plastic off. It looks a little more authentic, but being a W-30 car, it needs a correctly done sway bar to be complete. Do Plastruct or Evergreen offer a round rod flexible enough to take the bends needed to make this fit correctly? If not, what would you recommend? (The rear sway bars on these cars were probably less than 1" in diameter) Please note: I'd prefer to modify the kit's pieces rather than swap parts with other kits. Bonus question for the experts: Has anyone figured out how to make the front end look more like the 1:1 car? it's got that Revell-'69-Mustang-something's-just-"off" look to it.

He used to post every once in a while on the Spotlight board years ago, then, for some reason, he just stopped. From what he once told us, he did most of his paintwork with Tamiya rattle cans, and IMNSHO, he was one of those people who almost always seemed to pick out the perfect color for each model. I miss seeing his stuff, too. Maybe you could try our Where's Waldo section.

Any chance you could post that email on here?

I always thought the '76 & '77 were the best looking of the colonnade series-based 442s. Crank out an '83 442 with Lightning Rods and you'll be everybody's hero.

S.f.dude, what is the off-white, conical item located toward the back of the passenger side valve cover?

Woo hoo! This is one of my all time favorite cars, and IMNSHO, I don't think it ever looked better than when it ran in Sunoco livery. If i remember my history correctly, Roger Penske had more involvement with this car than Ferrari, but the Porsches still dominated at the track. I can't wait to see all the steps Mark takes before this one's ready for the Under Glass section.

We're both wrong. Let's use something Simpsons-inspired, preferably from the Bureau of Ironic Punishments. I say sentencing him to five years of riding a unicycle as his sole transportation will satisfy his inner attention whore while keeping him away from cars that can still be salvaged.

As some of you know, the C3 Corvettes ('68-'82) are my passion. As a kid in a small town, I didn't see many of them on the streets, so I had to be satisfied with building the MPC kits and attending the local 'Vette club's shows. Shortly after graduating from college, I was finally able to buy my own. Over the course of time, I ended up doing most of the things this guy did, but unlike me, he was fortunate enough to get his completed in far less time, and he photographed everything. http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126218 Hopefully this will help those of you who want to upgrade your MPC models, especially those with '80-'82 kits wondering where the batwing is. In addition to the usual chassis shots, you'll also see some potential detailing ideas like the headlight pod assemblies. For you scale masochists, try contemplating incorporating all the vacuum lines these things had.

Imagine how silly I feel. Here we have a self-appointed expert willing to expound on his limitless knowledge of automotive styling, and I failed to bring stone tablets and chisels to record this for posterity.

Designed, built and owned by Ann N. Cepahlic. That fustercluck of a hoodscoop is evidence of the lack of thought that went into the rest of the car. The owner should be sentenced to 10 years of Pavement Purgatory (a decade in a Prius).

There are a number of people on here who love their Paasche H airbrushes precisely because they make body painting easier. OTOH, learning to use a dual action 'brush isn't terribly difficult and, IMNSHO, they're more versatile, especially when you've got one like the Badger Anthem which can spray various types of paint without having to change needles & heads. We have a member here who has tested & reviewed quite a few of the more popular 'brushes. Might want to check it out: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/ As far as paints go, our members seem to spray everything. Some decant lacquer (Dupli-Color, Tamiya etc), some like acrylics and some of us die-hards shoot enamel reduced with lacquer thinner. If you want to see some techniques that'll shorten your body-painting learning curve, get this: http://oldmansmodels.com/catalog/i13.html

It still has a better chance of having fewer body issues than the Mustang LX. Too soon?

I'll be curious to see how the MCM review handles the body issues. Has Revell responded to any of the postings on FB?

Some of the kits AMT released during the '60s had numerous custom options, including rectangular Cibie headlights very similar to the ones shown. We'll have to hope some of the better kit historians see this so they can tell you which ones. In the meantime, you may also want to look at some of Revell's custom vans from the '70s. Seems like some of them had custom grilles and headlights too.

I don't necessarily have a dog in this fight because I've never liked the LX (coupe) versions & won't be buying any, but I can centainly understand why Bradley and others would be upset by the shortened roofline. I was one of those people who bought the early '69 ProModeler Charger with the botched top & I recall wondering which overpaid "suit" greenlighted that? Probably the same guy who later rubber-stamped the AAR 'Cuda catastrophe and the tools for this LX. When it's a kit of a car you're passionate about, things like this matter. With all the tools available to model mfrs these days, errors like this should be a thing of the past. I don't have Facebook so I'd appreciate it if someone would report Revell's responses to the posts people have submitted.

The kit you started with wasn't exactly AMT's best effort engineering-wise, so you are to be commended for making this build turn out so nicely. Suddenly it's the '70s all over again!

When craftsmanship and artistry combine... Impressive work!