Monty

I guess I should've said that I need a straight-on picture of the sidewall. One of our members, Chief Joseph, just came out with a number of sidewall decals representing various RWL tires from Goodyear, Goodrich, Firestone, Cooper etc. in both 1/24 & 1/25. He didn't happen to have these specific Firestones, but said if I could get him a good straight-on picture of the tire & lettering, he could make them available for the same price as all the others. Obtaining these would help me build more accurate versions of two cars from my early gearhead days.

Wow, I like that.

I agree. Looks like you did a good job of painting it. I think that color works well on that body, and the black trim seems made for it. Nice rescue! .

Sonny, you've got a number of options for engines here. IIRC, the AMT '66 Galaxie and '68 Shelby offer 427 Cammer engine options, so you can have something a little more exotic, although hood clearace may be an issue. Also, some say these aren't the most accurate Cammer engines (Ford guys, feel free to chime in.) Revell has a nice Shelby Cobra with a 427. If memory serves, it's 1/24, but that may not be too noticeable inside the Galaxie's fenders. The engine in Revell's '69 Mustang is a nicely detailed stock 428 (still in the FE engine family) that could be dressed up with stuff from your parts box. This is a bit of a stretch, but I think the the 390 in the '60 Starliner kit has a multi-carb intake setup that really looks sharp when detailed. 390s were part of the FE engine family and available in the '65 Galaxie. HTH

I'm trying to find good pictures of these Firestone SS Radials. They were made in the late '70s & early '80s & are completely different from any current Firestone tire. Unfortunately, Google didn't have much to offer (there was a picture of the outline letter version of these tires, but I'm not looking for those). As the title says, I need a straight-on shot, as opposed to an angled shot like this. TIA for all helpful replies.

Lots to like about this build. The slightly worn paint and skillful application of body rust give it an authentic "used" look, and your scratchbuilt pieces look like they could've been tooled up by Revell. (That's meant to be a compliment ) I've been told Revell didn't put a whole lot of effort into the undercarriage/chassis, but it looks like you did well with what you had. Now, one question: How do you explain a spotless engine sitting in that grimy engine bay? I'm guessing the original died after many miles of service.

I love this combination: Great subject matter, accurately tooled and built with attention to detail. Great job, Henry!

I don't recall seeing this one before. Very nicely done!

I'm likin' this, Shane! What paint did you use?

Lee, very nice job on this build and photos. If you'd like some wheels that are closer to the ones on your inspiration picture, they're available in this kit A few of our resin casters offer them as well. I've got some '78 - '82 MPC Corvettes and they're not bad, but it looks like Monogram did a better job sweating some of the details on this kit. The dash alone is 100% better by virtue of having the correct shape and defroster vents, and the defroster lines in the rear glass are a pleasanty unexpected touch, too. I don't do a whole lot with 1/24 stuff, but this kit looks like it'd be worth checking out. PS Where did you get the BF Goodrich tires?

I like this! Shane, what paint did you use for the gray?

Any chance you have some pics of the underside you could post?

The Rebel and the Pontiac sound interesting. Is there a site where we can see them and get price info?

Are we talking about Sterling Silver? That's disappointing. Maybe I can trade my sealed cans off in the Trade section.

From what I've seen on this & other hobby boards, the heavy flake issue seems to be a random issue within the Testors One Coat lacquers*. For instance, the Inca Gold and Mystic Emerald are fantastic colors, while IMNSHO, the flake kind of overwhelms the color on Diamond Dust, Graphite Dust and Star-Spangled Blue. If they could get the flake size down like Tamiya, I'd be thrilled. *Old-style Testors metalflake enamels were usually listed as such so you generally knew what you were buying.

Next time, point the nozzle toward the model and save your $1.00 bills for more paint. In all seriousness, many of the colors in this line are beautiful, but I despise the size and amount of flake Testors dumped into some of them & as such won't use them.

Here's a list of '57 T-bird colors. http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?year=1957&manuf=Ford&model=Thunderbird Since you mentioned that it leans toward pale yellow/cream, I'm guessing you're trying to replicate Ford's Inca Gold. I'd suggest starting with Testors Phoenician Yellow.

Are you missing pics or what? Must be nice to be able to get results like that in that scale. Excellent work! Now go finish that Ferrari

Pen name, P/N and name of retailer would be appreciated.

Thanks for all the ideas, guys! Lots of viable solutions, but I think Mike's suggestion will work best for what I'm trying to accomplish, especially in regard to how the bar attaches to the trailing arms.

I've taken a couple tentative shots at starting my Lindberg '67 442, but I need some advice on increasing its accuracy. If you've built the kit, you'll recall that Lindberg tried to mold something resembling a sway bar onto the rear axle, but for some reason they chose to fill in all the space between it and the axle with styrene, making it look more like a braced drag racing rear end. Here's a pic I found of a completed kit that someone built without modifying the rear axle. Long story short, I ended up filing the sway bar and its excess plastic off. It looks a little more authentic, but being a W-30 car, it needs a correctly done sway bar to be complete. Do Plastruct or Evergreen offer a round rod flexible enough to take the bends needed to make this fit correctly? If not, what would you recommend? (The rear sway bars on these cars were probably less than 1" in diameter) Please note: I'd prefer to modify the kit's pieces rather than swap parts with other kits. Bonus question for the experts: Has anyone figured out how to make the front end look more like the 1:1 car? it's got that Revell-'69-Mustang-something's-just-"off" look to it.

He used to post every once in a while on the Spotlight board years ago, then, for some reason, he just stopped. From what he once told us, he did most of his paintwork with Tamiya rattle cans, and IMNSHO, he was one of those people who almost always seemed to pick out the perfect color for each model. I miss seeing his stuff, too. Maybe you could try our Where's Waldo section.

Any chance you could post that email on here?

I always thought the '76 & '77 were the best looking of the colonnade series-based 442s. Crank out an '83 442 with Lightning Rods and you'll be everybody's hero.

S.f.dude, what is the off-white, conical item located toward the back of the passenger side valve cover?