Monty

Just checked - no luck on that one either.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRS6owZg-4FauFG8YQvbdM4Fc-JoasHbfy6ECEbYUW-fYWYsEws1A Looking for something like this to complete the 351C in the Mach 1 kit. Kit part? Resin?

Yeah, in the last few months I've been seeing a lot of the mile-long URLs & I wondered what that was all about. I've also gotten that same frustrating message almost every time, even with what appears to be "real" URLs. Seems like the photo-hosting sites have their share of problems, too. Some time ago there was a major malfunction @ Photobucket, and more recently a lot of pictures on Fotki disappeared, albeit temporarily (?) - Not sure if it's all been resolved yet.

Are you talking per post or...? I used to find the best overall pic and post it, so that shouldn't have been a problem.

I used to be able to just click on the image, bring up "Properties" and copy/past that url (?) into the image box. Worked well for several years. I've never had an interest in photography, so I never saw any reason to get any of the storage services.

We often see questions along the lines of "What is the correct..." especially from newer members. In the past I tried to be helpful by finding and posting examples of the subject in question from Google Images. This would usually benefit the OP as well as anyone else who had the same question later. In the last year or so, I've noticed that our system rejects about 95% of the images i try to post. Why is that? I don't have Fotki/Photobucket accounts, and to my way of thinking, shouldn't have to have them to post pictures on a board.

Probably, but you should be very cautious when dealing with them (him, really). If he's the only game in town for whatever part you're in need of, make him swear on his mother's grave that he has it in stock & ready to ship before you remit payment. Lotsa people on this and other boards have been burned...

Johnny, if you don't mind I'll offer a suggestion that should help you make the interior a little more authentic. If you take a look at a 1:1 T/A steering wheel, you'll see that the spokes have two different sizes of holes drilled through them. You could pop your steering wheel off the column and drill it out using a pin vise and a couple bits. You might also consider thinning the spokes from the back side using a small file. Small details like this can make a big difference.

Agreed, but the OP seemed to be asking for replica stock advice: I am looking for the modeling colors you use to represent these as if the car rolled off the assembly line.

Here are some suggestions to get you started: 1) Use Google Images to find as many pictures of the car in question as you can. You'll also need to search for things like Mopar restoration sites where the cars you'll find will usually be in some form of disassembly so you'll be able to see more of the areas you need. Print these pictures out and keep them in the model box with the project car. 2) If you don't already have them, get all of the Model Master metalizers in bottle form. The paint is thin and can be brushed onto bare plastic. Some can be polished out for a brighter shine (polished aluminum) while others are basically flat. You'll find all kinds of uses for them, such as painting molded in brake & fuel return lines, carbs and some suspension components. 3) A good semi-gloss black is virtually indispensable when dealing with frame rails, some suspension components and any number of things in the engine bay. Basically, it all comes down to using your eyes to translate the colors on the 1:1 car into readily obtainable (or mixable) paints.

It's too bad AMT couldn't have gotten all of the details right, but your corrections will really make this truck stand out. Getting it accurate looks like it would've been enough of a task, but your hinged access doors are above and beyond.

Too bad you couldn't get the video to post on here - I remember seeing it right after you figured out how to set up the slot car gearing so that the landing gear could be cranked up or down. Kudos also for putting the time and effort into less glamorous areas like the reefer engine and the trailer suspension.

I'm familiar with the majority of the semi-gloss and flat blacks offered by the hobby industry with the exception of most of the black paints in the Polly S & Poly Scale lines. Does anyone know of a black hobby paint that dries to an eggshell finish?

Túlio, thanks for the tutorial!

I've had the MPC-derived AMT 1974 Plymouth GTX kit sitting on my to-be-built-eventually shelf, but I'm trying to find a way to make it look more realistic. The headlights on these kits are molded in with the bezels, so I was wondering if someone offered hole saws for modelers that would allow me to make a thin cut around the outside of the headlight, creating a slight bit of separation between it and the surrounding bezel, just like on real cars. If nothing else, it would allow me to cut all the way through and replace these with a better reflector bucket/clear lens combination. Thoughts?

I'm hoping some of you can point me to some YouTube videos that show engine detailing tricks such as washes, metal abrasions (think paint abraded off the edge of a valve cover, exposing bare steel) & anything else that might be helpful in creating an engine with quite a few miles on it. I recently tried to find this stuff myself using titles like "model engine detailing", but didn't find what I needed. TIA for any links pertaining to the detailing issues I mentioned.

I always look forward to reading your posts because I know I'm going to see some great detailing and incredible paint, and this one with its mirror-black paint is absolutely magnificent. You mentioned getting two cans of Tamiya gloss black for this project. Why? Are you spraying multiple coats and rubbing them out? Any other tips you can share regarding achieving this kind of finish would be appreciated.

One for summer, one for winter, stylish driving all year 'round. Did it hurt that much to do a GM car?

Spectacular work!

Just the fact that it's a C3 was enough to get my attention, but there's so much to like about this build. Zora Arkus-Duntov would be proud. Any chance we could get a shot of the chassis?

I happened to see Helix's '69 Riviera on here (if you haven't seen it, it's definitely worth a look) and I remembered that I have this kit stuck away on my back shelves. I intend to build it using one color for the body with a contrasting color for the vinyl roof. The problem is the ventilation vents at the base of the rear window. Whether I try to make a vinyl roof using masking tape or use the method where you spray an adhesive for texture followed by color coats, it seems these vents are doomed to be obscured if not completely covered up. (Keep in mind that they're 1/25 scale vents) So...any ideas how I can pull this off?

First, congratulations on a fantastic build. I love it when someone demonstrates how sweating the details pays off big. Kudos also on your clean building technique (assembly, paint and BMF). Lastly, great choice of tires*. Just giving yourself an option to the standard polyglas tires makes it stand out even more. PS Just for clarification, are you saying you shot the scoop with standard Testors silver and got that shade? I'm asking because it looks like pewter in the picture, which would be correct. Again, great job on this build. Can't wait to see what you create next. *For those of you who aren't aware, Fireball Models offers two pages of waterslide tire decals, so you've got a very good chance of being able to replicate quite a few different manufacturers' tires from the past (at least via sidewall). What's even better is the guy behind fireball Models is our board's own Chief Joseph.

Glad to see you addressing all the kit errors and adding all that detail. Between this and your Peterbilt, we're seeing some impressive work.

I see a lot of incredible scratchbuilding going on here. The engine's going to be fantastic and the cab hydraulic cylinders will be a major improvement over the kit pieces. Can't wait to see this finished. When are you going to show these guys the scratchbuilt 1/16 Detroit engine you built?