Monty

Phenomenal work! It's a virtual feast for the eyes. Thanks again for sharing your talents with us.

Welcome to our board! You and mangodart (another French modeler on here) have both shown us some excellent examples of your skills in assembly and painting. You certainly found some great colors for those three old Mopars. Hope you'll post again soon.

There are some very nice detailing touches in both sections. Thanks, Cameron!

I'd like to see how this looks. Any chassis pics you can show us?

Whoops! My error. I got to babbling on about the acrylics and forgot that you had mentioned that. If you end up using some of their other items (self-leveling primers, spray-on fillers etc) let us know what you think of them.

Be aware that the Mr Color paints probably won't match up with the paint numbers on your instruction sheets. Other than that, you should be pleased with their quality. Gunze offers all kinds of primers, fillers & etc. to work with these. I'm told they're pricey but well worth it. If you're looking for a reliable source for these paints via mail order, try Red Frog. I discovered them when I was looking for Humbrol enamels.

It's not so much about how much stuff you can add as it is about how much of your work is accurate. The first thing you need to do is get as many reference pics of the car in question as possible. That means body shots, interior shots, engine bay shots and if possible, chassis shots. (This may entail looking up professional restoration sites etc). Getting all the small details right help make the bigger details stand out.

I can't answer all your questions, but I can help you out on a few issues. Gunze-Sangyo offers both an aqueous (water-based) line of paints and a solvent-based line (Mr Color). You seem to be interested in the water-based paints, which I can say from experience are excellent for airbrushing. Your biggest problem will be finding them in the US since they pulled those paints out a number of years ago. When I wasn't able to find them here, including at hobbylinc, I ended up restocking all my favorites from some place in Australia, but I believe they are also available from the UK and Poland. Guys having the same issue on other forums are reporting fair prices on both paint and shipping. While Gunze offers a decent range of paint colors http://www.spruemaster.com/blog/file/GSI_aqueous_colors_LRG.jpg they don't have much in the various "metal" shades, if that matters. HTH

I agree, and even though I had a red 1:1 Corvette, it's kinda nice seeing them in other colors (not that I'd object to anyone posting a red one.) I should confess that I had an ulterior motive for this. In the original post, I specifically asked if anyone had had problems with this kit, and obviously nothing insurmountable has been mentioned. I asked this because an experienced, adult member of another modeling forum I'm on made a claim about a month ago that this kit was "unbuildable". He claims he'll have to break the chassis in half to get it in place where it can be glued together. No one has mentioned having to go to any such lenghts on here....hmmmmm. Having seen how these guys' builds turned out, I need to get mine moved up on the to-do list.

Danno, in the 20 years that I had mine, I encountered any number of other owners who didn't have the shielding element either, but for whatever reason weren't having any problems with their radios. A quick look at Google Images "1969 Corvette engines" will confirm that a lot of those shields are no longer in use, which suggests there are workarounds (aftermarket radio/tape player?) of some sort, if necessary. When I purchased my 'Vette, it didn't have the shielding either, and the radio continued to work fine, even with successively more powerful ignition systems. (Davis Unified Ignition stuff rocks, BTW). I complimented Erik for his wiring because it looked good and also because he avoided two modeling cliches (for lack of a better word) that we used to see on this board all the time. 1) It wasn't just a bunch of wires jammed in a tube. He made the effort to replicate the look of a real setup. 2) It wasn't the "angry spider" look that used to be so common a couple years ago. Even without the factory shielding in place, the wiring still goes down the back of the block, into two restraint loops, and then up to the heads. Lastly, judging by the custom paint and wheels, I'd say its doubtful that Erik's intention was to replicate a factory stock 'Vette in the first place.

Erik, I must say I like they way you enhanced what Revell provided. One of the first things I noticed was the plug wire routing. The wires appear to be in correct firing order and run correctly down the back of the block. Question: how did you get a part number stamped on the radiator hose?

Maybe it's just me, but it seems like metallic blue paint just rocks on the early C3 Corvettes. Nicely done, Paul.

You obviously figured out a way around the issues you encountered, and the car looks great. Thanks, Kevin!

Makes me wonder if anyone ever stuffed an actual 429, Boss or otherwise, into one of these kits just so it matched the box description. Better drop a Toploader in there too, while you're at it.

I agree, Phil. Looks like yours went together very nicely.

Did you encounter any particular difficulties putting the kit together? Were you satisfied with the overall accuracy of the kit (box title excluded )?

Yeah, Casey suggested that in post #2, but I didn't see these listed. Did I overlook them?

These would've been the tire sets that came in kits like Monogram's Owens Corning Corvette. I wouldn't be surprised to hear they were also used in some street rod kits as well.

I'm going to be applying the factory decals to Revell's stock 440 air filter housing, but I'd like some advice on a couple issues. 1) The 1:1 air cleaner housings seem to be flat black. How do you apply decals to flat black paint without getting "silvering" around the edges? 2) I'm thinking the decal's gonna have a tough time conforming to the inclines etc of the top of the air cleaner housing. What all do I need to make that happen? Decal-sol? Decal-set? Any other clues you think might be helpful would be appreciated.

Spectacular work again! Can't wait to see what you create next.

Has anyone started checking for prices on this kit?

Many of us were fortunate enough to get the MRC wheel/tire packages back in the '90s. I thought the wheels were some of the best looking available, but it was the multitude of adapters that proved highly useful in getting these wheels to fit a variety of different model manufacturers' cars and trucks that made them kits so valuable. https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQCezWl8B-UmiJK660sK4vZ-VUI4UNds0r9PXMjEL4Us3zU7fU3 Since these kits have been out of production for over a decade and remaining kits are rare and expensive, I'd like to know whether the sprues with all the adapters can be copied as-is in resin. In other words, can the adapters be left on the sprues and the whole "tree" be copied in one shot? The "trees" are roughly 4"x 7". The benefit of these adapters goes beyond MRC wheels. The sheer number of adapters suggests they've covered the bases as far as using different wheels on a wider variety of subjects.

I'm going to be doing a stock Ford 351C for a project and I'm not thrilled with the hobby paint options I have for duplicating "Ford blue", so I thought I'd try something more authentic like 1:1 engine paint. Any chance this stuff's too hot for styrene?

That'd be great. PM me when that happens. Probably wouldn't hurt to cast a few more, since I'm probably not the only one looking to add this part to the 351C engine.

Randy, you've made some great improvements, but if you wouldn't mind a suggestion, gently cut through the tape stripes where they pass over the door edges.