cchapman195

Thanks for the comments on my 65 565 Victoria LOL. I will see if I can edit that out .

I myself use the testors clear parts cement. Dries quick and clear. I also use it on my dash gauges and painted emblems to give it a plastic lens look. Works great for me.

Here is my tutorials on acrylics. You can see step by step how to do it. I had a lot of people teach me and all I did with these video's is passed on their knowledge. I have all these posted here on the forums as well. www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWmDDhf1nNnxvW9Jh_uNc9PkIUZm167M6

Thanks.

You got it Paul. If you get a chance I have more how too's and more to come on my channel.

Yes Dave, gloss acrylics are usable. One thing to remember is gloss has a clear liquid that allows it to be glossy. This makes it ripply or wavy. Not able to see it by eye but the paint reflects better if it is smooth. This is why people that use enamel and lacquer base paints have to wet sand in between coats and after clear coat to get a smooth finish. Flat non gloss colors lay down smoother as there is no liquid gloss agent in the paint. When you put on you clear coat the smoother it is the better the shine. Using flat prevents you from having to do any sanding and it will only be as glossy and shiny as the clear coat. polish and wax is on top. Just an fyi. but you are able to use any type of acrylic the same way. Thanks for watching.

Thanks Joe Panini for watching. I use the back of an exacto blade and run along the door seems tan into nooks and cranny's and scrape them out. After that I use a flat black or a slightly darker main color and mix into a wash. And fill in and hide any left over residue. It also enhances the door panels just like a real car.

Please do post us on your results. I like to hear how it works for people. Also if you happen to have any problems or questions please let me know. Good luck and have fun.

I have never used that scriber before but I want to pass on a little tip I used and it works great and is FREE, FREE, FREE!!!! Go to your dentist and ask if he can give you all his used tools. They have to sterilize them after each use and prior to discarding them. I got more then enough to last me a lifetime.

I have heard you can use the one coat clears over acrylics and enamels but I have never used it before. My suggestion would be to get an extra sprue and airbrush acrylic onto it dry with a hair dryer then use the one coat on top of that. Remember though if you put it on to heavy it will liquify the acrylic. Thats where putting the mop and shine on with thin coats it dries as you build it up keeping the acrylic solid. If you cannot find the mop and shine then get Pledge floor polish. It is originally called Future floor polish. If you are over sea's it is called KLEAR. You will get the same results.

Very nice. Thanks for sharing.

You got it Douglas.

Only thing I can think of is one, not mixed well enough. Two, something on the headliner that is not clean. Try rinsing the whole thing in the sink and wash with warm soapy water. That is an area the sometimes does not get cleaned well because we all focus more on the outside of the body. Then mix very well. I use a badger mixer but putting it in a bottle and stirring it well then put a lid on and shake the bageebies out of it. Any more problems let me know and I will see what I can find about it.

It's a great kit. I wish I had two more of it. Stay tuned I will have another update today and then I will post my how too vids from paint to trim.

Time for chassis and installing the motor. Time for chassis. I spray stainless steel onto exhaust parts I use the salt method Water and salt Then light mists of satin clear Remove salt under running water It now looks oxidized A little earth brown acrylic thinned with water. White glue placed so I can remove after paint so it has a clean plastic for the glue to stick. Rear suspension in sub assembly. Sub assembly complete White glue placed for glue line. http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q604/cchapman195/1958%20Chevy%20Impala%20MCM%20build/IMG_1792_zpsa1f4ebc8.jpg Flat and gloss black paint for chassis http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q604/cchapman195/1958%20Chevy%20Impala%20MCM%20build/IMG_1795_zpsd2ddb13f.jpg Mix ratio of flat black and Floor polish for thinning. A 50/50 ratio seems to work well. http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q604/cchapman195/1958%20Chevy%20Impala%20MCM%20build/IMG_1796_zps43adbbf6.jpg Have to spray the bottom of the interior tub to match chassis. http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q604/cchapman195/1958%20Chevy%20Impala%20MCM%20build/IMG_1798_zps8cf15fc4.jpg Spray at 23 PSI http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q604/cchapman195/1958%20Chevy%20Impala%20MCM%20build/IMG_1799_zps4641e0f8.jpg I use a hair dryer to dry after painting. http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q604/cchapman195/1958%20Chevy%20Impala%20MCM%20build/IMG_1800_zps6c387b2d.jpg Rear housing, suspension and chassis all painted. I have removed the white glue so I have a clean place to glue the parts together. I do this by rubbing it off or using a toothpick to scrape it off. http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q604/cchapman195/1958%20Chevy%20Impala%20MCM%20build/IMG_1802_zpsc301ec4c.jpg I now use chalks to weather the chassis http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q604/cchapman195/1958%20Chevy%20Impala%20MCM%20build/IMG_1817_zps3c4e5891.jpg That will take care of this segment. Up next will be what I have for the interior. Be back soon.

Okay. Time to start with the motor. I painted it motor red by Apple Barrel. Time to detail the motor Plug boots Wire ties from the Photoetch set. applied into pre drilled holes Exhaust manifolds are now ready for paint Different browns and flat black make up for a used exhaust Exhaust manifold added A few completed motor pics. Now a fuel line and filter will be added Completed Fuel and spark plug wires. http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q604/cchapman195/1958%20Chevy%20Impala%20MCM%20build/IMG_1844_zps845cba9b.jpg Well that does it for the motor for now. Up next Chassis.

Okay people. It has been a while since I did and update. My comp crashed and I am just now able to continue. I must however, mention I lost a lot of my pics but have video's from my you tube channel to fill in the lost segments. I do hope this will help and some of you may have already seen them. Sub assembly on motor is done I drill a hole for my distrubitor Ready for plugs. Transmission is ready for paint I start with medium gray I then use a sterling silver wash I dry with hairdryer I put a satin polyurethane coat on another black wash final results

Thank you bud. Glad they helped. Posting pics in a few of the completed build but here is a video of it completed.

Thank you Jake and Rodney!

Sorry David, I heard not to use floor polish as a primer as it will not adhere to plastic. I myself have never tried that. as a bleed barrier I would put down whatever color you are doing for a main and put a few light coats on then Mop & Shine as a bleed barrier and then main color. It would be worth experimenting with.

Ammonia is not what breaks down the pigments. Windex just happens to have ammonia in it. Over here in the states I use windshield washer fluid that is ammonia free. It is just a glass cleaner. Ammonia is put into Windex to gut through and clean greasy fingerprints on glass windows. A quart of Windex costs $6.99 here in the states and a gallon of washer fluid costs $1.88. Some country's don't have the luxury of washer fluid or it is more expensive then Windex.

Thank you very much Steven! I hope there was something worth learning in them lol.

You can put enamel clear on acrylic. I used Crystal Clear by Rustoleum on many acrylic paints. I also use light coats of polyurethane on my acrylics. Not too sure how a lacquer based clear would do though. I am trying to stay away from chemicals. Really have no need to try anything else for my paint jobs. I do however, admit acrylics may not be the best for intricate pinstripe details as it may be too thick. That is where HOK comes in. But for one or two tone paints acrylics are great.

You got it Lee. Hope they help. I am posting one on aluminum foil for chrome trim right now.