jwrass Posted April 14, 2015 Posted April 14, 2015 Just a FYI, Black Gold has been packaging HOK in rattle cans for at least 5 years and continue to expand the products they package. I have never used any of the rattle cans but it is genuine HOK in the can They package in rattle cans but the original objective was to sell small amounts in various oz sizes that you had to reduce to spray. Bottom line you can get the product in rattle cans or small amounts that you reduce and spray I still on occasionally purchase from Black Gold (nice people) I get most of my HOK locally and from Coast Airbrush.
mademan Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 I use these pre-thinned bottles all the time for my models..... never had issues, Ive got some that ive had for 3-4 years and its still fine. Shake it up and spray. Ive used as small as a .3 paasche, and up to a .7 hvlp touch up gun. Ive used the shimrin bases, kandy, and kandy concentrates, generally use Plasti-kote 235 ( I believe it is) grey or white primer, and Duplont Chroma-clear over it. I also agree with these guys ALWAYS wear a mask. this one is Lime gold Kandy, over Limetime pearl Base, over white plastikote primer, and Dupont chroma-clear over Pink Kandy Concentrate over Fine Orion Silver
fseva Posted April 17, 2015 Author Posted April 17, 2015 I use these pre-thinned bottles all the time for my models..... never had issues, Ive got some that ive had for 3-4 years and its still fine. Shake it up and spray. Ive used as small as a .3 paasche, and up to a .7 hvlp touch up gun. Ive used the shimrin bases, kandy, and kandy concentrates, generally use Plasti-kote 235 ( I believe it is) grey or white primer, and Duplont Chroma-clear over it. I also agree with these guys ALWAYS wear a mask. Wow - that's quite an investment in paint! But I'm very glad to know you're using the pre-thinned HoK so successfully; it makes me feel like I could do so, too! BTW, is the Chroma-Clear a 2-part clear?
jwrass Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 Mike, Your work looks great with the pre thinned. What I was trying to imply is not all paints are equal. some require more reducer and some require less. Even if you buy your paint pre reduced I would still want reducer on my bench to adjust the mixture, You will be able to perform much better paint finishes when you have the ability to adjust your mixture. I have been spraying these components 1:1 for some 40 years (see profile) I know through experience this to be true VERY nice builds great choice of colors!!! Peace Jimmy "RASS"
High octane Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 Black Gold also has HOK paints in jars for air-brushing as well as "rattle cans."
10thumbs Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 I've used black gold from H of K. It's more like a very dark anthracite gray though, not quite black. @Mike, that's a nice collection of paint! Good looking paint jobs too. Michael
crazyjim Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 All I use is HOK pre-mixed paints and have every color available through Coast Airbrush. HOK goes over Duplicolor primer.
High octane Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 I've used HOK with Tamiya and Testors paints with no problems.
fseva Posted April 17, 2015 Author Posted April 17, 2015 Your work looks great with the pre thinned. What I was trying to imply is not all paints are equal. some require more reducer and some require less. Even if you buy your paint pre reduced I would still want reducer on my bench to adjust the mixture, You will be able to perform much better paint finishes when you have the ability to adjust your mixture. Jimmy, I think that this answers one of my questions - about pre-thinned being thinned for spraygun users - airbrush users might still have to reduce because of the smaller tips... right? Also, when it comes to reducing HoK, is the amount really that critical? I look at percentages and start backing away because I'm afraid I won't get the reduction right and will ruin a batch of paint! If eyeballing it would be sufficient - as in you can see the paint is too thick and won't come out of the airbrush - so add some redcuer until it will come out - I would be a lot less worried about screwing up a batch...
Ace-Garageguy Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 Jimmy, I think that this answers one of my questions - about pre-thinned being thinned for spraygun users - airbrush users might still have to reduce because of the smaller tips... right? Also, when it comes to reducing HoK, is the amount really that critical? I look at percentages and start backing away because I'm afraid I won't get the reduction right and will ruin a batch of paint! If eyeballing it would be sufficient - as in you can see the paint is too thick and won't come out of the airbrush - so add some redcuer until it will come out - I would be a lot less worried about screwing up a batch... When you reduce your color to spray, don't reduce ALL of it. Just do as much as you think you'll need for the job. If you over-thin it, just add a few drops of unreduced material to thicken it up a bit. You'll soon get the hang of how much reduction is necessary, and you will be able to do it by "feel" and what the reduced material sounds like as you stir it, and even how fast it drips off the mixing stick. Or, you can get specific "viscosity cups". Percentages are really easy to duplicate over and over if you take a little time to make yourself some graduated mixing sticks, too. I typically make them from Starbucks stir-sticks, when I'm mixing very small quantities of 1:1-intended materials for model use.
fseva Posted April 17, 2015 Author Posted April 17, 2015 When you reduce your color to spray, don't reduce ALL of it. Just do as much as you think you'll need for the job. If you over-thin it, just add a few drops of unreduced material to thicken it up a bit. You'll soon get the hang of how much reduction is necessary, and you will be able to do it by "feel" and what the reduced material sounds like as you stir it, and even how fast it drips off the mixing stick. Or, you can get specific "viscosity cups". Percentages are really easy to duplicate over and over if you take a little time to make yourself some graduated mixing sticks, too. I typically make them from Starbucks stir-sticks, when I'm mixing very small quantities of 1:1-intended materials for model use. Excellent - thank you very much for the added clarifications!
jwrass Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 (edited) Ditto on Aces reply. For 1:1 I measure in oz's and use Zahn cups. For models do like Ace says and you will be fine!! Soon you will be mixing and spraying like a pro!!! FYI, HOK: Has a striping and lettering urethane in many colors used for 1:1. It is compatible with all HOK products and works great through a airbrush. It comes in the small cans (I think they are 1/4 pints) I use this product all the time on 1:1. I HAVE NOT used it on plastic!!! IMO I don't see a problem because the product is not that aggressive or HOT and dries very fast. Best practice is to always test first on a practice panel. This product is awesome! Peace Jimmy "RASS" Edited April 18, 2015 by jwrass
MsDano85gt Posted April 18, 2015 Posted April 18, 2015 i just found my stash of what i left of the HOk paint i have..... really radical colors wish me luck with them may have some stuff coming up for trade too found a secret stash in virginia whilst here on vacation
jwrass Posted April 18, 2015 Posted April 18, 2015 Dano, If you come across anything unusual in Paint Products, such as Murano Pearls, Pinstriping,Lettering brushes or Vixen Files (body files) please P.M. Let me know. I'm sure we can work something out
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