Help for a Newbie

[MattPack25]

First some background: I recently started modeling at the age of 20 after taking almost 10 years off. I am a college student so between work and school I do not have a lot of time or money to spend with my models. (Although I'm trying to figure out how to get more of both haha).

I have some questions on problems that I have run into. How do you all hold your parts while you paint them? I am using brushes (as of now, looking for cheap airbrushes) to paint and I often mess up the paint because I am holding them with my fingers, or I can't paint the whole surface area because it is laying on a piece of cardboard. Is there a better way to hold and paint pieces? Along the same lines, how do you all keep pieces in place while the glue is setting up and drying?

Also, I would love some tips/tricks that you wish you had when you first started! Thanks for the help! Here's to a successful (hopefully) modeling career!

[dublin boy]

Small parts are easier to brush paint on the sprue, you can touch up the paint after you take them off, tweezers are helpful here.

Mini clamps are great for keeping things together while glue dries, or use tamiya tape depending on the part.

Use white glue on clear parts.

Very basic advice, but I hope it helps, works for me anyway.

[fseva]

How do you all hold your parts while you paint them? I am using brushes (as of now, looking for cheap airbrushes) to paint and I often mess up the paint because I am holding them with my fingers, or I can't paint the whole surface area because it is laying on a piece of cardboard. Is there a better way to hold and paint pieces? Along the same lines, how do you all keep pieces in place while the glue is setting up and drying?

I use a Tamiya Painting Stand Set TAM 74522...

Best price I've found at Scale Hobbyist https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/painting-stand-set/TAM00074522/product.php

[taaron76]

Toothpicks for small parts and I use a touch of E6000 glue, let it dry, then prime and paint. The E6000 glue will form a strong bond, but will allow you to pull it off after its painted without any damage. I only glue the toothpick to the side or area of the part that will not be shown. Works really well.

I also use a myriad of small clamp as well.

Tim

[Ace-Garageguy]

I don't recommend brush painting if you can avoid it. Brush-strokes look like little kid work, and a relative few rattlecans can provide all the colors you'll use, mostly, for underbody and engine bay bits.

Nor do I recommend painting parts still on the trees. You'll almost always have to touch up the spots where they were attached, and getting the mold-seams removed is made more difficult as well.

I paint small parts several ways, including the ones mentioned in posts above.

Drilling a small hole in a face of the part that won't show after assembly, and using a toothpick or wire, possibly lightly glued in the hole, is preferred.

For flattish parts where both sides will be seen when finished, like a hood for instance, I'll use double-sided tape to hold the part to a wooden stir-stick for painting...one side at a time, obviously.

As far as glue drying during assembly, I only use liquid cement for sub-assemblies, and you can just hold the parts together for the minute or so it takes for it to do its thing. You can make other creative jigs and fixtures from old wood clothespins, alligator clips, various kinds of tape, etc.

For clear windows, I find it's best to very carefully fit the parts dry, and then tape them in place with masking tape. Get it right. Then use a white PVA glue made for windows. Don't use too much, and don't get it on the taped areas.

For parts that have to be attached to a painted surface, you should strongly consider carefully fitting and pinning them prior to paint. Remove before painting, after painting clear the holes very carefully, and again, use a drop of PVA glue (or perhaps epoxy if you want more strength), being careful to not allow it to squeeze out on to the finish.

Here's a thread that has info on fitting and pinning of parts.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69765&hl=pinned#entry868383

Edited April 21, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[angelo7]

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Edited April 26, 2015 by angelo7

[Sidney Schwartz]

I also use the Tamyia paint stand for the body, but lots of folks use less spendy alternative like wire hangers. For small part, I like alligator clips or clothepins taped or glued to the end of some kind of stick, drinking straw, whatever. Tape on the end of a stick can work too.

American Scientific & Surplus http://www.sciplus.com/ is a great place to get all sorts of stuff very cheaply. It's worth your time to browse through their catalog. One of the best things I got there was one of those headband mounted magnifiers. They sell it for 1/2 to 1/3 the price as other places. Working with small parts would be impossible for me without it.

A great deal mentioned by someone else here is a pack of 100 surgical blades with handle for about $7 from odontomed2011 on eBay. I also got three pairs of surgical scissors from the same outfit for a whopping $4.40. They have cheap sets of dental picks and other useful things.

If you have a Michael's or Joann's in your area, they have paint, brushes, wire, and lots of other useful things, and they're pretty much always running sales on something or other.

Probably the most important thing I've learned here is to think outside of the hobby store box. I only use the hobby stores for things I can't get cheaper someplace else.