Lovefordgalaxie Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 Sorry, it's not push it forward it's pull it forward while lifting. Push is almost the same word to pull when said in Portuguese. I always mess up the two...
fseva Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 Frank, I have never left a knife mark in my paint jobs. If you are pressing enough to leave a mark then you are pressing too hard! Once you have put the BMF onto your model body and have it pressed down well enough to remove the excess, just trace along the trim line as if you are tracing with a pencil. Tracing like you want to leave a very light pencil mark you are going to erase later. Very, very light. The foil is so thin, that's all you need. Try that! Getting the foil off the backing sheet... I always start at the side edge. The very edge of the foil doesn't have glue on it. I will use my exacto blade and try to get under it just enough to get it to stick up a tiny bit. Then I grab it with tweezers and pull. Hmmm... that's basically what I do, but with the wrinkles in the foil taking place during the "pull"...
StevenGuthmiller Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 Seems to me, the problem just never went away - I can't seem to get it off a sheet without all of those wrinkles already formed before it's applied! I've never had a wrinkling problem. In over 20 years of using it, I can't remember that ever happening. Not once. Steve
fseva Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 I think you are pulling it like you would pull a sticker from it's backing paper. letting the foil almost at 90 degrees from the paper. That will wrinkle it pretty bad. Iy you lift the tip, and pull it trying to keep the foil parallel to the paper, it won't wrinkle. To do so, you have to slightly push it forward while lifting. I saw where you corrected push to pull, and now I can see that this is something I have never tried - I will pull it over itself and see if the wrinkles stay away! Thanks!
Lovefordgalaxie Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 About Alclad, well I've used it, and found it to be less shiny as I would like, and too fragile. Also used a stuff a company here in Brazil developed, and I think to be 1000% better than Alclad, as it will accept automotive two part clear without loosing any shine. The down side: It also is not like 100% real chrome. Here is a link to the paint I talked about. They have even painted a car with it. Yes a 1:1 car. http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-650626846-tinta-efeito-cromado-chromenox-140ml-_JM
StevenGuthmiller Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 My main problem with BMF is removing it from the waxed backer - I have yet to find a way to do so without the tiny wrinkles appearing during removal... what do you do? I'm not sure. I've never had that problem. Could it possibly be that you're using too long of pieces? When I do a side spear, I do one body panel at a time. Front fender, door, rear quarter. There's a break at each panel anyway, so it just makes it easier to use smaller pieces if possible. Steve
Lovefordgalaxie Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 I saw where you corrected push to pull, and now I can see that this is something I have never tried - I will pull it over itself and see if the wrinkles stay away! Thanks! No!! that is just the opposite of what I've said. You can't put a heavy angle on the foil when pulling it from the paper!! That's what is ruining it. You have to try to pull the foil without bending it, trying to lift the foil from the paper the most parallel to the paper you can.
fseva Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 About Alclad, well I've used it, and found it to be less shiny as I would like, and too fragile. Also used a stuff a company here in Brazil developed, and I think to be 1000% better than Alclad, as it will accept automotive two part clear without loosing any shine. The down side: It also is not like 100% real chrome. Here is a link to the paint I talked about. They have even painted a car with it. Yes a 1:1 car. http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-650626846-tinta-efeito-cromado-chromenox-140ml-_JM Yes, but is this a hobbyist product delivered in small affordable quantities? We've all seen the systems requiring chemical baths, etc., and for rechroming a 1:25 bumper, there is no way I'm going to invest that much money!
fseva Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 No!! that is just the opposite of what I've said. You can't put a heavy angle on the foil when pulling it from the paper!! That's what is ruining it. You have to try to pull the foil without bending it, trying to lift the foil from the paper the most parallel to the paper you can. Shoot - I do that all the time, and the wrinkles always appear.
StevenGuthmiller Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 Frank, I have never left a knife mark in my paint jobs. If you are pressing enough to leave a mark then you are pressing too hard! Once you have put the BMF onto your model body and have it pressed down well enough to remove the excess, just trace along the trim line as if you are tracing with a pencil. Tracing like you want to leave a very light pencil mark you are going to erase later. Very, very light. The foil is so thin, that's all you need. Try that! Getting the foil off the backing sheet... I always start at the side edge. The very edge of the foil doesn't have glue on it. I will use my exacto blade and try to get under it just enough to get it to stick up a tiny bit. Then I grab it with tweezers and pull. I do it pretty much the same way. I cut my piece to the size I need, "pick" the corner of it with the tip of the blade until it's lifted enough to get a hold of it with a tweezers & peel it off. For the life of me, I can't understand where the wrinkling comes from. The only time I've seen wrinkling is when the sheet of foil is old & ready for the trash. Then the adhesive begins to deteriorate & the foil is no longer sticking to the backing as it should. Steve
fseva Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 I do it pretty much the same way. I cut my piece to the size I need, "pick" the corner of it with the tip of the blade until it's lifted enough to get a hold of it with a tweezers & peel it off. For the life of me, I can't understand where the wrinkling comes from. The only time I've seen wrinkling is when the sheet of foil is old & ready for the trash. Then the adhesive begins to deteriorate & the foil is no longer sticking to the backing as it should. Do you grab hold of just a corner and pull? I have always worked the whole side off and then grabbed the foil all the way across the piece I've cut out. Perhaps that's why I'm getting the wrinkling... and yet, I seem to recall that pulling at just one corner led to breaks in the foil...
StevenGuthmiller Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 Do you grab hold of just a corner and pull? I have always worked the whole side off and then grabbed the foil all the way across the piece I've cut out. Perhaps that's why I'm getting the wrinkling... and yet, I seem to recall that pulling at just one corner led to breaks in the foil... Once I get about a quarter of an inch off of the backing, I grab the end with the tweezers & pull it up length wise. Steve
Lovefordgalaxie Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 Do you grab hold of just a corner and pull? I have always worked the whole side off and then grabbed the foil all the way across the piece I've cut out. Perhaps that's why I'm getting the wrinkling... and yet, I seem to recall that pulling at just one corner led to breaks in the foil... I think Steve is right. You may have a "bad batch" of foil. The only way you can wrinkle it from peeling it off of the paper is by doing so at a heavy angle. About pulling it by the tip, and breaking the foil, maybe that's another symptom your foil is bad. It may be sticking too much the the backing paper.
Lovefordgalaxie Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 Once I get about a quarter of an inch off of the backing, I grab the end with the tweezers & pull it up length wise. Steve Always did the same. The foil shouldn't break, unless it's sticking badly to the backing paper. If doing so, taking it off would be almost the same as pulling it back after applied. It will break and wrinkle bad.
pharoah Posted April 25, 2015 Posted April 25, 2015 i use the back edge of my Xacto knife blade to pick up the BMF. you get a little bit of the blade under it,and lift carefully. Sometimes you may have to press it on the blade to keep it from coming off again. As far as wrinkling goes,it may just take some practice,or try different ways of pulling off the backing paper.
fseva Posted April 26, 2015 Posted April 26, 2015 I think Steve is right. You may have a "bad batch" of foil. The only way you can wrinkle it from peeling it off of the paper is by doing so at a heavy angle. About pulling it by the tip, and breaking the foil, maybe that's another symptom your foil is bad. It may be sticking too much the the backing paper. I do believe you guys were right - I had a bad sheet of foil! I just went down to the hobby room and practiced removing sections from a brand new sheet, and what I found is that if I did it the old way (grasping it at the end and pulling up on it), it would still wrinkle... but not as much... and I used the suggestion of keeping the foil as close to parallel as possible - even using my free hand to keep the foil from lifting too far ahead, I got virtually no wrinkles! Thanks guys!
Tom Geiger Posted April 26, 2015 Posted April 26, 2015 Go for it Frank! Now remember to press very light with the exacto when cutting it to size on the body!
fseva Posted April 26, 2015 Posted April 26, 2015 Once I get about a quarter of an inch off of the backing, I grab the end with the tweezers & pull it up length wise. In your pictorial, I noticed that you gave the strip a slight twist away from pure flat parallel - is that intentional?
fseva Posted April 26, 2015 Posted April 26, 2015 Go for it Frank! Now remember to press very light with the exacto when cutting it to size on the body! You know, I invested in 100 surgical #11s just for this purpose - is that overkill? Is it so sharp, it's digging in way too much?
Tom Geiger Posted April 26, 2015 Posted April 26, 2015 You know, I invested in 100 surgical #11s just for this purpose - is that overkill? Is it so sharp, it's digging in way too much? Don't dig in at all! No pressure! Just glide that knife along the edge like you are tracing it lightly with a pencil. Practice how light you can make a pass where the BMF will pull apart. You will be surprised at how little pressure it takes, no more than the weight of the knife.
fseva Posted April 26, 2015 Posted April 26, 2015 Don't dig in at all! No pressure! Just glide that knife along the edge like you are tracing it lightly with a pencil. Practice how light you can make a pass where the BMF will pull apart. You will be surprised at how little pressure it takes, no more than the weight of the knife. I'll give it a shot! Thanks Tom!
StevenGuthmiller Posted April 26, 2015 Posted April 26, 2015 In your pictorial, I noticed that you gave the strip a slight twist away from pure flat parallel - is that intentional? No, not really. I've never given much thought to how to pull it off of the backing. I'm sure I do it differently every time depending on position. Steve
Lovefordgalaxie Posted April 26, 2015 Posted April 26, 2015 No, not really. I've never given much thought to how to pull it off of the backing. I'm sure I do it differently every time depending on position. Steve The BMF conspiracy!!!! Soon on a YouTube channel about aliens and general conspiracies next to you!!!
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