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Posted

I have utilized Alclad, Bare Metal Foil, Testers Chrome Paint and chrome plating for producing a chrome finish. Has anyone used anything else that produces a realistic chrome finish for styrene and or resin?

Posted
  On 6/5/2015 at 2:10 AM, JPolli said:

I have utilized Alclad, Bare Metal Foil, Testers Chrome Paint and chrome plating for producing a chrome finish. Has anyone used anything else that produces a realistic chrome finish for styrene and or resin?

Yes - alchemy - it turns gold paint into real chrome! :rolleyes:

Posted

If you use Alclad correctly, or find a way to make it work, it will give you a realistic chrome finish. The important part is taking the time to find a way to make it work> I don't do it the way they recommend, but I get very good results.

Posted (edited)
  On 6/5/2015 at 2:10 AM, JPolli said:

I have utilized Alclad, Bare Metal Foil, Testers Chrome Paint and chrome plating for producing a chrome finish. Has anyone used anything else that produces a realistic chrome finish for styrene and or resin?

Here is an interesting alternative to applying Alclad that I found at the "other" magazine...

Over time, I’ve spent money with ChromeTech and Little Motor Kar Company for chrome plating services, but there are often times when I want to use Alclad II to apply a chrome finish on some model car parts myself. In the past, because of a serious case of OCD, I have often been unhappy with the gloss or shine of my completed Alclad II chrome projects.

Through trial and error and experimentation, I am now using an alternative process for applying an Alclad II chrome finish. I have long used automotive paint products for my model car projects and that is where I looked to try to improve my Alclad II results. I found that applying a three part base of Duplicolor automotive paints would give me the high gloss chrome finish I am looking for. I am sharing it with Y’All so you can also get better results with Alclad II chrome.

I begin by ensuring that the items to be chromed are clean and ready for paint. The first step is to apply one medium coat of Duplicolor sandable black primer. After observing the dry time specified on the primer can, I apply one heavy wet coat of Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel Gloss Black, making sure that the paint is not so heavy as to cause a “paint run.” After allowing the gloss black to dry in accordance with the instructions on the can, I apply one heavy wet coat of Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel Gloss clear, also making sure that it, too, is not too heavy. Once the gloss has dried in line with the instructions on the can, I have created a very glossy base for the Alclad II chrome finish. I most often let the parts dry at least for a day or two before I apply the Alclad II chrome. I use a Paasche VL double action air brush with #3 tips and needle at 12 PSI. I apply a light coat or coats of Alclad II Chrome, in accordance with commonly accepted practices, making sure that I don’t apply too much of the Alclad II product.

Try this and I think you’ll like it!

(Note: Automotive paint products like Duplicolor are often more expensive than other paints I use. I frequently shop prices at the local automotive parts stores and most often buy at the places that provide the military discount I am eligible for. A few local automotive parts stores will sometimes run sales on the Duplicolor paints. I have not yet attempted to buy what I need online, but that may be a good alternative to get discounted prices.

Another Note: Along the way, you will undoubtedly notice that the Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel clear provides a very high gloss shine. Yes, you CAN also use it on your model car paint jobs. Two mist coats and two wet coats of clear (applied in accordance with the can instructions), followed by careful polishing can provide a near-show quality finish for your model cars. Experiment with it and I think you’ll like it!)

Written by Steve L.

Edited by fseva
Posted

While your method is sound, Frank, you can get better results using Alclads own black base and use less and thinner coats of paint. Their black base lays down very smooth and glossy, better than any other black I've ever used. One coat is usually enough for coverage, no clear required.

Posted
  On 6/5/2015 at 7:36 PM, Longbox55 said:

While your method is sound, Frank, you can get better results using Alclads own black base and use less and thinner coats of paint. Their black base lays down very smooth and glossy, better than any other black I've ever used. One coat is usually enough for coverage, no clear required.

I take it you didn't see that I was quoting "Steve L."? Not my technique - just offered it up because it seemed to be an appropriate time to do so...

Posted
  On 6/5/2015 at 10:43 PM, Longbox55 said:

No, I did not see that it was a quote. My apologies if I offended.

Apology accepted, and thanks! :wub:

Posted
  On 6/5/2015 at 7:36 PM, Longbox55 said:

While your method is sound, Frank, you can get better results using Alclads own black base and use less and thinner coats of paint. Their black base lays down very smooth and glossy, better than any other black I've ever used. One coat is usually enough for coverage, no clear required.

I struggle with Alclad black base sometimes, I have better luck with Scale Finishes lacquer gloss black. If you are ever in the mood to try other paints, I would recommend it.

Posted (edited)
  On 6/6/2015 at 3:35 AM, Quick GMC said:

I struggle with Alclad black base sometimes, I have better luck with Scale Finishes lacquer gloss black. If you are ever in the mood to try other paints, I would recommend it.

I had the same problem with Alclad Black - it did not give me a high gloss like I expected. However, I also tried SF Black gloss and flat, and I didn't like either of those because of poor coverage!

Edited by fseva
Posted

Used Tamiya TS14 (gloss black) before Alclad and had pretty nice results. This is Alclad out of rattle-can,not airbrush.

Posted
  On 6/6/2015 at 4:01 PM, 3100 chevy said:

I used this once

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

Not sure if it is available in the states though

(Left is kit chrome)attachicon.gifimage.jpg

We have it here in the States, too. Hobby Lobby and Micheal's carries it here. I have a can of it, haven't tried it yet, though.

Posted

My preferred poison is made by a company here in California called Alsa. They have been in the chrome auto paint business for years. They were the original suppliers to the Mercedes F1 team for there 'chrome' cars. There Mirrachrome paint really does a good job but unfortunately it has gotten really expensive. I got mine when it was $100 a quart and those quarts are now $400. They often go on sale for half price but that is still $12 and ounce and that is much more expensive than the alternatives. When I bought mine, I split it with 2 friends and that is enough chrome paint to last 10 lifetimes. The nice part about it is you can use their speed clear over it and it still retains it's chrome look. He is an airplane I did 5 or 6 years ago.

frontleft.jpg

Posted

After years of "modelmaking" I think the best is Spaz Stix Mirror chrome. As a black layer I use any black color covered by 2k clearcoat. Than apply Spaz Stix. Awsome results.

Posted

I do mine a little differently, I use a silver base (regular Alclad aluminum) then clear (Tamiya TS 13 or Mr Color 46) then I polish the clear (Novus 2) then apply 1 or 2 very light coats of Spaz Stix at a "glancing" angle - this angle really is the key to the whole thing - I can get results that rival kit plating.

Posted
  On 6/7/2015 at 3:28 PM, Pete J. said:

My preferred poison is made by a company here in California called Alsa. They have been in the chrome auto paint business for years. They were the original suppliers to the Mercedes F1 team for there 'chrome' cars. There Mirrachrome paint really does a good job but unfortunately it has gotten really expensive. I got mine when it was $100 a quart and those quarts are now $400. They often go on sale for half price but that is still $12 and ounce and that is much more expensive than the alternatives. When I bought mine, I split it with 2 friends and that is enough chrome paint to last 10 lifetimes. The nice part about it is you can use their speed clear over it and it still retains it's chrome look. He is an airplane I did 5 or 6 years ago.

frontleft.jpg

I'm sorry but some of this stuff doesn't look much like chrome to me - especially the dome surround... looks like gray paint with a little metal in it...

Posted
  On 6/7/2015 at 3:54 PM, Pavel A. said:

After years of "modelmaking" I think the best is Spaz Stix Mirror chrome. As a black layer I use any black color covered by 2k clearcoat. Than apply Spaz Stix. Awsome results.

I'm not sure what you mean by 2K Clearcoat... I don't think it's available in the states... Would any lacquer clear work the same way, or have you only tried it with the 2K Clear? After you're completely done, does it withstand handling any better than the way Spaz Stix recommends?

Posted
  On 6/7/2015 at 6:43 PM, Brett Barrow said:

I do mine a little differently, I use a silver base (regular Alclad aluminum) then clear (Tamiya TS 13 or Mr Color 46) then I polish the clear (Novus 2) then apply 1 or 2 very light coats of Spaz Stix at a "glancing" angle - this angle really is the key to the whole thing - I can get results that rival kit plating.

I'm really interested to know how important the clear and polishing is - have you tried SS over Alclad without the clear/polishing? What percentage of improvement would you say it has?

Posted
  On 6/7/2015 at 3:15 PM, TSK said:

I like Spaz Stix spoon painted with it.

I like it, too... Did you apply the SS directly over the raw highly polished spoon as it came from the box?

  On 6/8/2015 at 12:09 AM, landman said:

I have yet to see Spaz Stix in Canada. Does anyone know whether it is available?

You can buy it at Amazon... I'm sure they'd ship to Canada, or they may have an outlet there...

Posted

This is a related thread, and I'd like to hear everyone's opinion that has been following this thread...

How important is the black before the chrome? Is it an homage to the way it is supposed to be applied on the INSIDE of lexan RC bodies, AFTER applying the chrome? If it's more important than that, what does it accomplish?

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