gman3000 Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 Hi, I've just started to build some models. I want to spay some kind of lacquer over the body after I have applied decals. What can I use? Your help is much appreciated.
High octane Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 WHY? There's really no need to spray clear over the decals, as not only is it a waste of time & money it ads coats to the model. I try to use as little paint as possible when I paint. Light coats of primer, just enough color coats, and just enough clear coats, so that I can polish out the paint, without going through the color coats.
Krazy Rick Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) WHY? There's really no need to spray clear over the decals, as not only is it a waste of time & money it ads coats to the model. I try to use as little paint as possible when I paint. Light coats of primer, just enough color coats, and just enough clear coats, so that I can polish out the paint, without going through the color coats. Finally, someone with good taste & a brain - refreshing Edited June 22, 2015 by Krazy Rick
fseva Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 Hi, I've just started to build some models. I want to spay some kind of lacquer over the body after I have applied decals. What can I use? You have to be real careful with lacquer over decals. Your best bet is to take an unused decal from the sheet that came with the kit, apply it to an unused part of the kit (or a plastic spoon) and give it a couple of quick coats of your chosen lacquer. If the decal looks fine after the lacquer is dry and cured, you know you can use that technique on your model. If you haven't already chosen a clearcoat, which may be needed depending on your basecoat, I would suggest that you use your chosen clear over decals... but still do a test, off-kit. Good clearcoats are made by Testors (One-Coat Clear), Model Master (Auto Lacquers) and Tamiya (TS13). I personally use Testors One-Coat, mainly because it's the cheapest of the 3.
Jantrix Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 WHY? There's really no need to spray clear over the decals, as not only is it a waste of time & money it ads coats to the model. I try to use as little paint as possible when I paint. Light coats of primer, just enough color coats, and just enough clear coats, so that I can polish out the paint, without going through the color coats. I've gotta agree, although I have cleared over decals in the past. I've had two excellent paint/decal jobs go to the purple pond because of some bad reaction between the decals and the clear. Man I nearly cried on my pearl white '49.
fseva Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 Finally, someone with good taste & a brain - refreshing If I was the newbie asking this question, I would not have thought his comment was "refreshing"... rather it was brusk and elitist.
taaron76 Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 I think it all depends on the look you are going for, so I don't believe it is a "do" or "don't" question. His question was simply, "I want to spay some kind of lacquer over the body after I have applied decals. What can I use?" Just as Frank and Rob stated above, make sure you test out the scenario on the test side as it is on the production side to make sure there aren't any unwanted reactions. I don't believe adding two or three extra coats of clear is going to break the bank, but it all depends on the look you are going for. The problem is that once you wetsanded through the clear coat onto the base coat, especially if it is metallic, you might as well start over. I always throw a few extra coats on there to avoid that scenario. Gren - I'm not an expert with lacquer, but I know that acrylic clear is very safe to spray over the top of decals, if you are not opposed to using it instead. Hopefully the above responses have helped you make a decision. Tim
fseva Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 I think it all depends on the look you are going for, so I don't believe it is a "do" or "don't" question. His question was simply, "I want to spay some kind of lacquer over the body after I have applied decals. What can I use?" Just as Frank and Rob stated above, make sure you test out the scenario on the test side as it is on the production side to make sure there aren't any unwanted reactions. I don't believe adding two or three extra coats of clear is going to break the bank, but it all depends on the look you are going for. In my latest problem experience with decals, it was a matter of having the visible surface of large stripes looking really bad - the easiest way to describe it is to think of "water spots", but these don't want to come out. So, the best thing to hide them is to give them 1 or more coats of clear. That sure did the trick for me!
GeeBee Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 As your from the U.K, I'll try and answer your question, again what has been said here is correct, there really isn't any need to put a clearcoat over the decals, but if you still want to, I know people who do it, in their eye's it protects the decals, but in all the years I've been modelling I've never felt the need to use any. But if you still want to try the clearcoat, try Halfords clear, I know people that do use it and it doesn't effect the decals, but again it's always best to check on the decals your using, 2 part lacquer should effect the decals either, but using 2K lacquer is a little trickier to use than 1K acrylic lacquer, which is what Halford products are. Anymore questions, please ask .....
GeeBee Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 Clear coat, please expand? Just another name for Clear Laqcuer
gman3000 Posted June 22, 2015 Author Posted June 22, 2015 Thanks everyone for your replies. I had a model where my decal woundnt stick, hence why I'm thinking of spraying over top. The acrylic spray mentioned how will that effect finish?
GeeBee Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 Thanks everyone for your replies. I had a model where my decal woundnt stick, hence why I'm thinking of spraying over top. If that's your problem, I would get yourself a bottle of Microscale Micro set, http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-1
gman3000 Posted June 22, 2015 Author Posted June 22, 2015 Ok I will looking into this. But after painting do I still need to spay some kind of clear top coat? Another question which someone my have an answer to. its a bit off topic but might be easier to ask than start new thread. I have revel kit with some paints but the instruction don't mention what or where to paint?
Mike Kucaba Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 As your from the U.K, I'll try and answer your question, again what has been said here is correct, there really isn't any need to put a clearcoat over the decals, but if you still want to, I know people who do it, in their eye's it protects the decals, but in all the years I've been modelling I've never felt the need to use any. But if you still want to try the clearcoat, try Halfords clear, I know people that do use it and it doesn't effect the decals, but again it's always best to check on the decals your using, 2 part lacquer should effect the decals either, but using 2K lacquer is a little trickier to use than 1K acrylic lacquer, which is what Halford products are. Anymore questions, please ask ..... Okay,I might not know everything and things do change but please tell me about 2 part (2K) lacquer. The only lacquer I'm familiar with is one thinned with lacquer thinner. and that's it. Is this a UK product?
Krazy Rick Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) Okay,I might not know everything and things do change but please tell me about 2 part (2K) lacquer. The only lacquer I'm familiar with is one thinned with lacquer thinner. and that's it. Is this a UK product? This is the only " 2K" that I know of ..... and it sure ain't lacquer - it's glop Edited June 22, 2015 by Krazy Rick
GeeBee Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Ok I will looking into this. But after painting do I still need to spay some kind of clear top coat? Only if you use a basecoat to paint your models with, basecoat will dry with a matt finish and will need a couple of coats of clearcoat, otherwise, no, the clearcoat is not necessary .....
GeeBee Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Okay,I might not know everything and things do change but please tell me about 2 part (2K) lacquer. The only lacquer I'm familiar with is one thinned with lacquer thinner. and that's it. Is this a UK product? It's a clearcoat lacquer that has two parts, three if you count the thinners,
dublin boy Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Keep it simple and use Halfords acrylic rattle cans,(or Holts if you find it cheaper at the local motor factors), we get the same stuff here as the UK. Solid colours can be polished out, metallics generally dry flat, so need a clearcoat, and then polishing. Clearing over decals is a topic I won't get into, but it does seal them if that's what you want to do, always do a test as above, but I've never had a problem with the halfords stuff.
Krazy Rick Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) It's a clearcoat lacquer that has two parts, three if you count the thinners, Sorry Geoff, that IS NOT LACQUER ...... it is 2K URETHANE GLOP ..... and the thinner does not count as a " THIRD PART " .... it never has, and never will...... THIS ..... is THE REAL DEAL. Edited June 23, 2015 by Krazy Rick
GeeBee Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Sorry Geoff, that IS NOT LACQUER ...... it is 2K EURATHANE GLOP ..... and the thinner does not count as a " THIRD PART " .... it never has, and never will. I suppose it depends on what side of the pond you come from, here in the U.K they are known and listed as Two Part Lacquers.
dublin boy Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 We really are separated by a common language. I find it very funny to be honest. We all know the familiar hood/bonnet and trunk/boot stuff and generally ignore it, but when it comes to paint it can get confusing.
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