Applying Metalizer Aluminum Plate - Buffing variety

[aurfalien]

Hi,

So I've read some great tips on using this stuff, mainly from Ace-Garagaguy and thank you for that Ace.

But I've read other conficling fromage and my LHS says to spray on bare plastic.

1) Is the primer used to hide or fill in any imperfections? If the piece is very smooth and about perfect, does one need primer?

2) If primered, do I need to 1200 grit wet sand? The 1500 seems kinda gritty to me, wouldn't 4000 or 6000 be better?

3) One heavy coat to avoid grains? Or can I do a light coat to start the games off and then shoot a heavy coat over it to avoid grains?

Sorry, I know its been covered but I'm looking for a definitive how to.

Thanks in advance.

PS HAPPY 4TH!!! I'm stoked!

Edited July 4, 2015 by aurfalien

[Ace-Garageguy]

I personally prefer a medium gray sandable primer, to minimize show-through of the substrate after buffing.

If you're going to shoot it over bare plastic, I've found it helps immensely to scuff the part thoroughly with Comet, hot water, and an old toothbrush. You'll get superior adhesion, better flow without as much tendency to run and puddle, and a safer buffing experience.

The stuff is very thin and shows up ANY small imperfection, but 1500 (edit) grit or finer should be OK. If you DO see sanding scratches or graininess after the first or subsequent coats, it can be wet-sanded just like anything else (and you'll have to shoot it again afterwards). Continued effort will yield perfection...as close as you care to get, anyway.

The trick to getting it grain-free is to learn to shoot it wet, just on the verge of running but not quite. Dry mist coats will make a grainy surface...which can be helpful if you're going for a rougher as-cast look.

I find 3 wet coats (minimum) to be sufficient to deposit enough material on the surface to mostly avoid the problem of rubbing through the stuff on high spots when you buff it.

Give it plenty of time 10-20 minutes) to flash between coats, and let it dry at least a couple of hours before buffing.

Edited July 4, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[aurfalien]

Cool, so then this is my procedure;

1) Primer, I only have the white Tamiya though

* The part itself is black which man I gotta say; I don't really like when these kits come in mixed color styrene.

2) Wet sand finley.

3) Apply 3 or more wet coats, 20 min between each.

Sound cool?

Edited July 4, 2015 by aurfalien

[Eshaver]

Aurfalien , I use quite a bit of Testors "Metalizer" products . In my experience , the "FINER" you take the plastic , the better finish you will have . In this particular case , I had HOURS of bodywork . This is a 1-24th scale model of the former Zep Diner that was in Hawthorne California . You need to take it to 1200, preferably 1600 . THEN an ONLY THEN can you apply Metalizer over primer .

[aurfalien]

Wow, thats killer and killer history as well.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Eshaver is right...1500 grit wet or finer is in my shop notes. My mistake.

[aurfalien]

I know what you meant though. Tanks both for the replies, uber stoked to try this.

[Mike_G]

I've gotten my best results shooting a single coat just heavy enough to get full coverage on bare, polished plastic, then I do an initial buffing with a fairly hard-headed cotton swab after 30-45 minutes to get the sintered metal particles kind of pressed into the surface before it fully hardens. Then I wait overnight and finish buffing it with a soft cotton t-shirt. It's a pretty delicate finish and it's easy to take it too far- stainless steel metalizer is more forgiving in that respect but doesn't get as "white" a shine as the aluminum plate.

[DiscoRover007]

What are you trying to paint?

Metalizers are designed to be sprayed on bare plastic.

If you are priming the surface first you need to sand it down up to 2000-3000 grit or higher. The metalizer is an extremely fine grained silver. It will show any imperfection or paint (primer in this case) texture underneath it.

[Ace-Garageguy]

What are you trying to paint?

Metalizers are designed to be sprayed on bare plastic.

If you are priming the surface first you need to sand it down up to 2000-3000 grit or higher. The metalizer is an extremely fine grained silver. It will show any imperfection or paint (primer in this case) texture underneath it.

1500 grit wet is sufficient, as long as the entire surface is sanded correctly and no "texture" or deeper sanding scratches remain.

It is NECESSARY sometimes to prime parts, as on this clutch/output shaft housing, after the seam was filled and finished. The intake manifold here was stripped of factory chrome, scuffed carefully with Comet and hot water as I mentioned above in post #2. Both the metalized and polished manifold and the clutch / output shaft housing are as close to perfect as a human can get. The texture in the bellhousing is intentional, to represent casting roughness.

[DiscoRover007]

1500 grit wet is sufficient, as long as the entire surface is sanded correctly and no "texture" or deeper sanding scratches remain.

It is NECESSARY sometimes to prime parts, as on this clutch/output shaft housing, after the seam was filled and finished. The intake manifold here was stripped of factory chrome, scuffed carefully with Comet and hot water as I mentioned above in post #2. Both the metalized and polished manifold and the clutch / output shaft housing are as close to perfect as a human can get. The texture in the bellhousing is intentional, to represent casting roughness.

1500 is sufficient but I take it 3000 now because 3M has come out with a 3000grit sponge pad that makes sanding a whole lot easier. Testors metalizer is the very best paint to use if you are wanting to paint a car body silver. It's the only thing I've seen that truly matches an "in scale" grain for a 1.24 car body.

Here's a tamiya NSX i painted with aluminum metalizer non buffing. Primed with Zero primer and wetsanded with 3000 grit. Cleared with testors wetlook.