1/16 1968 Charger Pro Touring

[mustang1989]

Great planning so far John! I'll be in on this big beast!

[John Clutch]

Very impressed by your work thus far.  I had one of these kits I'd acquired as a partially built car. I noted the vast discrepancy between the left and right body thickness also- and was further put off by the odd meld of nascar guts and a stock interior.  Looking at this project I wish I'd kept it now- but I passed it on to a younger builder. Will be following your progress- 

Thanks Mark. And its funny you mentioned the interior, because I just noticed that the seat bases doesnt fit the floor either. And you can still get this kit, so its never too late to give it a crack!!!

Great planning so far John! I'll be in on this big beast!

Thanks Joe! Im having alot of fun with it so far. The planning and inspection on the kit will eliminate alot of last minute surprises, even though most of the kit will not be used lol

[John Clutch]

One fender roughed out. The wheelbase is now closer to specs also.

I have to admit, being a metal fabricator I thought working with plastics would be a walk in park. It is not. Plastic fabrications has its own techniques that I still need to learn. My hats off to you ladies and gentlemen for making it look so easy.

 

Edited August 9, 2015 by John Clutch

[10thumbs]

Hi John,

Your project is looking good!  About styrene difficulties for metal type guys....amen to that.

Is the Hemi from the kit?  It seems to be healthy-sized.

Michael

[1930fordpickup]

Would a dry sump oil pan work better for you to get the engine down farther? 

This a pro touring car so make the wheelbase and everything else to your specs.  

Edited August 9, 2015 by 1930fordpickup

[MoparWoman Jamie]

I'm also a metal fabricator myself, plus I also work with plastic alot as well an it's not no walk in the park LOL. BTW, I like your build here. Keep up the good work!

[John Clutch]

Would a dry sump oil pan work better for you to get the engine down farther? 

This a pro touring car so make the wheelbase and everything else to your specs.  

1930 Ford, the oil pan is not the issue as much as the transmission pan. Right now, using the kits 4 speed manual, it's not as tall as the automatic transmission pan I was planning on using. I might have to change my plans on that also, as soon as I come closer to fitting one I'll deal with it. Not sure what direction to go in. The kits oil pan does look like a dry sump unit. It has no well it in, just flat from front to rear, but I don't see any dry sump pieces in the kit ( but not that I really looked at the directions or the kit for them) No provisions to hook up the oil lines.

Hi John,

Your project is looking good!  About styrene difficulties for metal type guys....amen to that.

Is the Hemi from the kit?  It seems to be healthy-sized.

Michael

Yes Michael, it's the hemi that came with the kit. I'm just giving the face of the block a more realistic look, even though most of it would be covered lol. I figured if I screw it up, no one will notice anyway

I'm also a metal fabricator myself, plus I also work with plastic alot as well an it's not no walk in the park LOL. BTW, I like your build here. Keep up the good work!

Thank you Jim, I am enjoying it but the pace is a bit slower than e expected. As you know, if you wanted to rework metal fenders like this, you cut it to shape, give it a roll, and tack it as you go along. Can't really do that here. I'm using cement that takes awhile to set up, so I'm "tacking" and clamping, etc lol I really hate using superglue but maybe I.should have used that here. 

Edited August 9, 2015 by John Clutch

[John Clutch]

I'm glad I got this part out of the way. Left them a little small and I'll tune them up when I get the chassis rolling.

All the panel lines seem to be within .015 on each side except the front wheel openings. I'm not sure if it's typical to have them out by so much, but my calipers say .050 before I modified them.Sorry for the uninteresting thing to look at, at this point. I ran  out of material for the chassis because I changed plans half way through lol. Hopefully I have something for you guys to look at this weekend. But I have a rc drag race test and tune Sunday, so I'm not promising anything lol

Thank you so much for following and your comments.

Edited August 11, 2015 by John Clutch

[John Clutch]

Test

[John Clutch]

I'm not sure if I should be pissed off at the forum or my phone, because I spent an hour writting up a update, only for it to spaz out of me, so here is the short version.....

I made wheelwell fixtures, I'm making the wells in two pieces. Thanks for looking.

 

[John Clutch]

[John Clutch]

And if you are interested in seeing what a 36" tire would look like under a Charger......

[John Clutch]

Also, I've been doing research on the body lines, and this kit is lacking on them, especially the crisp peak line above the wheel openings that runs from front to rear.I'm not sure if I have the talent and patience to add that. My only thought on how to do it is to draw the body line on the car, temporarily glue a thin straight edge just below the line using it as a guide and fill the top with body filler. Sand sand and sand some more til it's flush with the straight edge. Remove the straight edge and then fill the bottom side with filler and sand it all smooth. Does anyone have another idea? Thanks

[ProStreetOnTheStrip]

I managed to shoehorn a 440 into my irl 68 dart

[Crazy Ed]

I managed to shoehorn a 440 into my irl 68 dart

  So did the Factory, along with the 426 Hemi !

[John Clutch]

I just wanted to let you all know, that this project has no been forgotten. I have a rc drag racing national event coming up the first week of October, and thats where my priority is at the moment. Ill get back on this after that. Thanks for looking

Clutch

[ProStreetOnTheStrip]

didn't mean to sound like that, lol, I have some wide ( I mean WIDE) front tires, I hope you can get back to this soon!

Edited October 20, 2015 by ProStreetOnTheStrip