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Posted (edited)

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More work!

I take away some plastic to make room for the exhaust pipes. I don´t think I can get it any better, some more adjusting on the hood, against the radiator is necessary.

This ”hood fitting” is absolutely the most challenging part of the building.:blink:

 

Cato, about the X-braces over the engine.
It was my goal to make them when I started to build this monster. I have never built a car before, so when I looked on reference photos and read at different forum I thought that would be a little more accurate, then to have them straight on the side. I found out early that this braces came very near the engine top, I´ve tried some small modifications to make it better, but as you said, they are near the top. Maybe I can adjust the height of the radiator a bit. To get back to side mounted braces is too much work, so I will try to keep them.

I appreciate very much yours comments of my building, so I hope you will continue with that.

Edited by Zoom
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Posted

I take away some plastic to make room for the exhaust pipes. I don´t think I can get it any better, some more adjusting on the hood, against the radiator is necessary.This ”hood fitting” is absolutely the most challenging part of the building.:blink:

Cato, about the X-braces over the engine.
It was my goal to make them when I started to build this monster. I have never built a car before, so when I looked on reference photos and read at different forum I thought that would be a little more accurate, then to have them straight on the side. I found out early that this braces came very near the engine top, I´ve tried some small modifications to make it better, but as you said, they are near the top. Maybe I can adjust the height of the radiator a bit. To get back to side mounted braces is too much work, so I will try to keep them.

I appreciate very much yours comments of my building, so I hope you will continue with that.

You improved the hood fit quite a bit Bo. But it still needs work. The key to remember for your next Pocher is to mock-up and test-fit ALL your panels and bits BEFORE  paint. Especially when adding aftermarket parts like MMC's pipes, dashboard and chassis parts. Saves the headache of having to make repairs or modifications to nice finished paint.  Yes hood fitting is among the most difficult and most NOTICEABLE of problems to tackle.

From what I see in the photo, the front edge of the side panel at the radiator has an uneven gap. To correct it may take sanding the contact area or adding a triangular wedge of plastic so it mates even with the radiator.  Adding plastic will require filler and sanding then repainting that (and probably the other) side panel. Also, at this point DO NOT raise or lower the radiator because it will change the hood height and the hood top line will be wrong. Tipping the radiator to match the hood side will also change the length of the hood top panels - either make them too tight or cause a gap. Remember any single change can affect several other areas. Test before finish is the important part.

 

Posted (edited)

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Thank you Cato, for yours clear information. I will try to take care of the gap.

But now to something else, (a little break from the hood).


When I cover the kick panels with leather I let the leather go “over” the plastic about 8-10 mm.
That will cover the inside of the body and get a nicer fit to the door and the dashboard. (It is not permanently mounted in the photo).

 

Edited by Zoom
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Posted (edited)

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Thank you Cato!

Doing some here and little there, but not the hood :rolleyes:
Some BMF on the back plates of the license plates.

Edited by Zoom
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Posted (edited)

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Working on the head lights.
I have bought the lenses from MMC but use the other parts for the lights from the kit.
Glue the lenses to the reflector with “Micro Kristal Klear” and the outer ring with “serious glue”.
I have checked that the groves as vertical. I`m not going to electrify the lamps.

Yes, there are still some adjustments to do on the right side of the hood. 

And thank you Stephen.

Edited by Zoom
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Posted (edited)

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An attempt to make the metal clip that hold the “crossing” rods together.
Small adjustment maybe.
Small pieces for me 
:blink:

 

Edited by Zoom
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Posted

Very nice small detail. Just make sure the rods don't hold the hood up.

Will you make a luggage rack for the rear deck now that you know how? That would also be a great detail and seldom seen on Mercedes.

Posted

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An attempt to make the metal clip that hold the “crossing” rods together.
Small adjustment maybe.
Small pieces for me 
:blink:

 

 

The clip is good, and authentic. The metal rods look too thick for scale.

Posted (edited)

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Shifter boot

It took three attempts to make one. I´m consider with myself if I should do a fourth, to get rid of the “emptiness” that is against the floor. (Probably not :blink:)
Next problem is to get some leather over the hole where the hand brake should be.

Cato, No luggage rack on this one, may be on some other.
This one I try to build almost out of the box and my goal is to get a decent assembling of a Pocher kit.

 

Skip, thank you!
Yes it is too thick, but I have no clue to solve it with a “smaller” rod.

Edited by Zoom
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Posted

Bo your leather boot is very nice. To trim around it, use a circle of silver solder, about .030 wide and slightly flattened as a chrome trim ring. For the handbrake hole, see my thread a few posts back. I made a side cover from leather with chrome trim that looks very close to your opening. It's on my shifter and brake handle opening.

Posted (edited)

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A small update.

 

The “ring” is not yet glued.
Tips from Mr. Cato 
:)

 

Edited by Zoom
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Posted

A small update.The “ring” is not yet glued.
Tips from Mr. Cato 
:)

Maybe make another one but gently flatten it. Some 1/12 scale PE rivets can become 4 attaching screw heads. Then see which one you like better....

Posted

That's looking pretty good Bo B)

Geez just mention something and you build it, ...eh?

 

 

Ok try this one,..."make the engine turn over and idle",...:lol:

Cheers

Posted (edited)

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A small update 2.

I think this was better  :)

 

Edited by Zoom
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Posted (edited)

HA, HA,

Bet you didn't know you were that good eh Bo?? Looks just as I hoped it would; neat and real. Now let me push you a bit further. Carefully remove the ring (unless glued). take a cotton tip and rub on metal polish, then buff  it off leaving the heads dull. Re-install and amaze your friends. It will look like a MMC chrome part. EXCELLENT work Bo, keep it up.

C

Edited by Cato
Posted

Thank you Tony, Scott and Cato!!
I don´t have any metal polish at home.
Is there any brand that is better? 

Now I have consider what to do next.

Posted

Thank you Tony, Scott and Cato!!
I don´t have any metal polish at home.
Is there any brand that is better? 

Now I have consider what to do next.

Any auto parts store will have a suitable polish. Does not have to be expensive. Or polish for silverware (spoons / forks etc.)

Posted (edited)

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A small update 3.

With a little polishing with Autosol the ring was a lot shinier, maybe not that visible in the photo.
I´m pleased 
:D

Thank you Cato for the suggestion.

Edited by Zoom
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