Bugatti Type 35 Revival of Italy...small steps to a Pocher

[GTJUNIOR]

Looking good. 

[Cato]

Beautiful solder work Scott. Really perks this up.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Thank you gentlemen, it is coming along bit by bit

[Twokidsnosleep]

Whole weekend of staining soffit wood for the new house

I did ZERO modelling all weekend. Was hoping to have this one done by end of April, that is looking questionable

Will keep plugging along

[Bugatti Fan]

Scott, You certainly got a real bargain getting that Merc for 30 bucks. Those Casadio kits were very expensive when they first came out. Metal kits throw up a few different challenges to plastics.

Incidentally, Europe uses the ISO Metric system for threads and tapped holes. looks like you were having some problems with threads on the Bugatti kit. I expect that UNC and UNF threads are the norm in Canada and the USA. Try a dedicated engineers supplier rather than a hobby tool stockist for ISO Metric tools.

In the UK try a company named Chronos Ltd who specialise in model engineering stuff, and will certainly stock metric as it is more common over here. They can probably do mail order.    Alternatively, get hold of a local Mercedes, VW or Audi dealer dealership workshop manager and ask where they source metric stuff locally.

Hope this helps.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Scott, You certainly got a real bargain getting that Merc for 30 bucks. Those Casadio kits were very expensive when they first came out. Metal kits throw up a few different challenges to plastics.

Incidentally, Europe uses the ISO Metric system for threads and tapped holes. looks like you were having some problems with threads on the Bugatti kit. I expect that UNC and UNF threads are the norm in Canada and the USA. Try a dedicated engineers supplier rather than a hobby tool stockist for ISO Metric tools.

In the UK try a company named Chronos Ltd who specialise in model engineering stuff, and will certainly stock metric as it is more common over here. They can probably do mail order.    Alternatively, get hold of a local Mercedes, VW or Audi dealer dealership workshop manager and ask where they source metric stuff locally.

Hope this helps.

Ah ha Noel you nailed it with the thread issue. I wound up reaming them all to the same size as the taps I have so it became a moot point, but yes metric threads could be an issue

The screw that broke was right from the kit, so should have been fine, but much like a Pocher it seems not to be the case and one cannot force them

I know the Mercedes was a great deal and the seller was happy to pass it along to someone who knew what they were in for and he was certainly in over his head.

He couldn't take the engine apart and suggested soaking it in mineral spirits...I had it apart easily that night with just the right screwdriver and pressure.

Will keep my eyes out for the ISO stuff, thanks for reading along and helping.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Made a brass manual oil pump last night. Used by the copilot to add extra oil during a race.

Located far left here in Jay Leno's type37

At some point all these parts get polished and painted and assembled into an actual finished vehicle...at some point

 

Edited April 23, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[Zoom]

Nice detail, waiting for more to come 

[Twokidsnosleep]

I know, I am so slow. Sorry 

[Cato]

I know, I am so slow. Sorry 

But you're not bad for a guy that's building a house and a model..........

[Twokidsnosleep]

I occasionally work in my office as well.

Then there is the kid chauffeur and the responsibility of a big dog

Friday night was my first fabrication session in a while.

Oh well, better busy ....I will rest when dead

[kpnuts]

Astounding levels of detail going into this, great stuff.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Wednesday evening modelling..that usually never happens for me!

Firewall/dashboard cemented together with brass linkages and then test fitted into body. Cut a strip from the  band-aid on my hand to make the drive belt for the tach

Firewall fit is poor with side gaps I will need to fill with copper.

This wasn't easy and broke some stuff along the way

Edited May 12, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[Cato]

It's a pretty little thing. You're almost there. Get the big chunks done .

Edited May 12, 2016 by Cato

[Twokidsnosleep]

It's a pretty little thing. You're almost there. Get the big chunks done .

Thanks bud. It is a vicious uphill battle it seems.

Most times I sit at the bench and wonder what is gonna bite me next. Just gotta push on and get her done

I am going to do a fall together OOB Tamiya next to recover...something easy!!

[Cato]

Thanks bud. It is a vicious uphill battle it seems.

Most times I sit at the bench and wonder what is gonna bite me next. Just gotta push on and get her done

I am going to do a fall together OOB Tamiya next to recover...something easy!!

Remember, you don't have to make this one Museum Scale. You already have a fine model so letting a tough one or two problems slide is OK. It's a difficult kit to start with so don't agonize over it. Every body knows that about these.

You will make your first Pocher Classic Museum Scale  ---  or else!

[Twokidsnosleep]

He he, museum quality

I am just looking for halfway presentable 

[Harry P.]

Well, somehow this thread has eluded me until just now. Looks very nice, but rather than slogging through all the old pages searching for the answer, I'll just ask: what scale is this? Looks to be about 1/20?

[Twokidsnosleep]

Well, somehow this thread has eluded me until just now. Looks very nice, but rather than slogging through all the old pages searching for the answer, I'll just ask: what scale is this? Looks to be about 1/20?

yep

 

 

[Harry P.]

Nice.

[Harry P.]

Are you familiar with the "safety wire" method of holding down the body panels that was used on this car? It's a very recognizable part of this car... just wondering how you were going to do it.

Here's my 1/8 scale Alfa Monza, which uses a similar type of thing. Of course, this was fairly easy to recreate in 1/8 scale. Don't know how easy it'll be in 1/20 scale...

[Twokidsnosleep]

Yes, one of my other looming issues on this build is just that

I have some good thin gauge copper wire that will look the part and was planning to make some copper or brass pins or pegs that go into the body as retainers to wrap the wire around.

It is the drilling and pinning these retainers into the metal body that I am hesitant about as well as getting the nice alignment like you have on that Alfa

I think I am up to about a dozen broken mini drills drilling stuff out to this point...but a snapped mini drill could be a retaining pin as well I suppose.

Have seen a few of these Bugatti T35's where the wires kind of get out of hand and take away from the body lines.

Edited May 12, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[Harry P.]

It's a tough call. The wiring is so ubiquitous on these cars that to leave it off would be a shame. But adding it is hard. Of course, I had it easy, as I was working in 1/8 scale, and on a plastic body, which is so much easier to drill than a metal body. I'll wait to see what you come up with.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Yes, it needs to be on there, but I will try to make it subtle

I remember you using the head of sewing pins for rivets...might look into those as retainers

[Cato]

Partial help; a common pin has a shaft diameter of .025 - .028. That would be 1/2" in 1:1, close to correct I'd guess. If they look too big on the car, put fewer of them. Only the rivet counters and Skip will care. 

i would make a masking tape band to go on the area to be wired and place an ink dot from a fine-point everywhere you want a rivet. This is safer than drilling and finding you muffed it.  When you have a good pattern, begin drilling through the tape as a guide. Yes the drilling is a b**** but little at a time, you can get it. Then twist your really thin wire.

I'd start on a small out of view panel if there is such a place. If it's horrible, you can always fill the holes with Bondo and re paint (Groan...)