Bugatti Type 35 Revival of Italy...small steps to a Pocher

[Twokidsnosleep]

Some progress

Manifolds fitted

Steering column under construction

Faux wood steering wheel test fitted and bonnet tried on

Low angle beauty shot

There we go, up to date

[sjordan2]

I'm a bit confused about the nature of the top hood hinge. Looks like it's missing one side of a piano hinge assembly.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Nope. It is what it is, a bit of a sloppy casting. Instructions say to cement the whole thing together.

A leather strap will go over the end closest to the firewall and the end by the radiator...so maybe why the spacing there??!!

I drilled out the two hinges at each end so I could thread wire through and have the hood hinge actually work

I was happy that I got the firewall to radiator distance..there are no positive seats on any parts involved so it was all guess and adjust

Edited June 7, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[sjordan2]

I ask because my diecast 1/18 Bburago T59 kit also has a strange, serrated hood hinge that I've never seen on a 1/1. I have a perfect piano hinge from a 1/16 Mercedes SS parts kit, but I've got to figure out how to grind and fill the metal to use it.

Edited June 7, 2016 by sjordan2

[Twokidsnosleep]

I have the same model Bburago Skip and it is a god awful strap and hinge for sure.

The Type 35 has a front/back strapping as I mentioned that will cover those areas

I contemplated cutting out the hinge and redoing it, but then sat down and re-gained my sanity 

[Twokidsnosleep]

Well, I have sailed the ship across the Atlantic, found land and burned the boats in the harbour.

ie Point of No Return has arrived

I chose a zig zag pattern to be a little more subtle

wadda ya think???

 

 

 

BTW It is done and will be done everywhere else on the body b/c I am not tearing this apart, stripping, filling and re-painting

 

Edited June 14, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[Twokidsnosleep]

I think I will try the wire straighter with less zig zag...looks a bit too busy

Ya, a bit better and more realistic

Edited June 9, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[Ognib]

Read through the thread.

Very nice work!

I admire your logical & systematic approach to building.

Really dig the house!!

[Cato]

Scott;

A single strand of real safety wire is .032" thick. In your scale that would be sixteen ten-thousands. Or, .002 without splitting hairs. No matter what you do it will be overscale, so don't sweat it. You've added a nice representative detail.

But it's another reason you should build in 1/8 scale...then it would be a much more manageable .004.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Scott;

A single strand of real safety wire is .032" thick. In your scale that would be sixteen ten-thousands. Or, .002 without splitting hairs. No matter what you do it will be overscale, so don't sweat it. You've added a nice representative detail.

But it's another reason you should build in 1/8 scale...then it would be a much more manageable .004.

I agree with you. The wire is close to scale, but the copper pegs are too large. I need that size to be able to wrap the wire and have it hold...the smaller diameter copper is too flimsy. All the better reason to do more linear wire lines so not as distracting to the eye...IMHO

[Cato]

. All the better reason to do more linear wire lines so not as distracting to the eye...IMHO

All the better reason to start your Pocher classics... MUCH bigger wires! 

[Twokidsnosleep]

Read through the thread.

Very nice work!

I admire your logical & systematic approach to building.

Really dig the house!!

Thanks Ray,

lt is a tough slog through the whole thread so you deserve a gold star just for that!

Thanks for the comments and looking in on me

Edited June 10, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[Twokidsnosleep]

Wiring and carbs are in. Engine compartment is done

 

I duplicated the safety wire on the right rear as well

 

 

[sjordan2]

All the better reason to start your Pocher classics... MUCH bigger wires! 

 

But no Bugatti T35 kit.

[Harry P.]

I have to question that thick black stripe on the cowl.

[Twokidsnosleep]

I have to question that thick black stripe on the cowl.

Poor moulding, had a HUGE gape under the wind deflector. I have seen a pic of a real car with leather there, so that is what I did.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Both sides are drilled, left hand side is wired, I am spent

[Harry P.]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but your wiring pattern is incorrect. The wires should be criss-crossing the body panels diagonally, nut running in a straight line like you did. If you think about it. the pattern you created makes no sense... it would not be how the wires were run to attach the body panels.

[Twokidsnosleep]

This is the straight line version I was after. If I had finer wire and pegs I would be even happier. I will see how she looks back up on her wheels. It isn't all that hard to wire it up, so can be easily changed.

I didn't like a lot of cross overs when I wired it that way. Some of the scale model T35's with zig zags made it look very bulky and noticeable.

As I think about it, I am sure these panels were wired and unwired over and over by different people in different ways, thus explaining the variations I see when I research it

Still looking for the leather wind deflector pic...must be on work computer

Edited June 10, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[Harry P.]

I see your point.

[LaughingIndian]

your first step before the Pochers is turning out to be a brilliant choice Scott ... keep trudging through!

 

 

[Twokidsnosleep]

your first step before the Pochers is turning out to be a brilliant choice Scott ... keep trudging through!

 

 

Thanks Mike!

Harry has me thinking about the wiring though. I think I will cross the other side like he showed an see how it looks

Darned if I can find that photo of the leather around the cowling...at any rate it will stay as body surgery on a powder coated metal model was not in the cards

Edited June 10, 2016 by Twokidsnosleep

[sjordan2]

In reviewing my files, it seems there is a very wide variety of ways to thread safety wire, so there's not much I can add.

[Twokidsnosleep]

In reviewing my files, it seems there is a very wide variety of ways to thread safety wire, so there's not much I can add.

Darn, I was hopping you had some suggestions. As I look through photos there is a HUGE variety

Something so simple makes things complex.

[Cato]

Darn, I was hopping you had some suggestions. As I look through photos there is a HUGE variety

Something so simple makes things complex.

And that huge variety is your friend. Just as various 1:1 restorers have either copied the '30's factory method or adopted their own, you can do the same. Pick a style that's expedient to make or just plain suits your preference. The kit as manufactured already has so many compromises that you can't get authenticity, unless you strictly replicate a specific 1:1 and do a lot of work.

You're building a really nice representative model. It will look great in your case either way.