urethane clear?

[Kit Basher]

I recently got some Auto Air paints. They recommend finishing with a urethane clear. Do any of you folks use one? Any pros and cons, and advice on brands and how to use them would be welcome.

Also, any suggestions for alternative clears over Auto Air, and general advice on using Auto Air, would be appreciated. TIA

[Ace-Garageguy]

Urethane clears require a toxic catalyst to harden, so whatever you choose, BE SURE TO USE A RESPIRATOR. It's a good idea to wear gloves when you work with the stuff too, as it's absorbed through skin.

Urethane clears require relatively accurate mixing of the components to work properly, so bear that in mind. Also, reduction (tninning) to spraying or airbrush viscosity needs to be done AFTER the addition of the catalyst in order for the chemistry to work right. Be sure to read, understand and follow the technical data sheet information for whatever you decide to use.

Urethane clears are also usually packaged for body-shop or industrial use, in quantities that are rather large for many modelers, so shelf life can be an issue.

[Kit Basher]

Thanks, Bill, that is very helpful. The Auto Air paint is also used for 1:1 vehicles, like airbrushed motorcycles. I'm wondering if their recommendation of urethane clear is more for that application. It sounds like it would be a PITA and maybe overkill for a model car. I guess I'll do some experiments and see if there's an easier to use clear that will work with this paint. Maybe a water borne clear, since this is a water borne paint. What the heck, I might even shoot some lacquer on it, just to see if it goes insane!

[martinfan5]

If you want to use a 2k clear, try using Scale Finishes 2k clear system, it works great and its hobby sized,  you get the 2 part system for $8.99.

 

Edited March 18, 2016 by martinfan5

[Kit Basher]

Thanks Jonathan. I've heard several guys on here mention using 2K clear, but I'm not really "clear" (nyuk, nyuk) about what it is. Is it different and easier to use than a urethane clear like Bill described?

[Ace-Garageguy]

Thanks Jonathan. I've heard several guys on here mention using 2K clear, but I'm not really "clear" (nyuk, nyuk) about what it is. Is it different and easier to use than a urethane clear like Bill described?

I've never used the Scale Finishes product, but the term "2K" means, industry-wide (in real car products, anyway) "2 component urethane" (as in: you have to mix a hardener in it for it to dry), but the term has been taken over by a number of single-component products, some in spray-cans, wanting to capitalize on the perceived benefits of the real thing.

I'm sure someone with first-hand experience with the Scale Finishes 2K product will chime inhere...   

[martinfan5]

Thanks Jonathan. I've heard several guys on here mention using 2K clear, but I'm not really "clear" (nyuk, nyuk) about what it is. Is it different and easier to use than a urethane clear like Bill described?

It is a urethane clear,  it is a two part system, clear and hardener ,  its a 4to1 ratio ,  I did a review video on it.

https://youtu.be/GCrDyh9ld2o

[martinfan5]

 

I'm sure someone with first-hand experience with the Scale Finishes 2K product will chime inhere...   

Someone like me ? 

[Kit Basher]

Thanks Jonathon. I watched the video, the finish looks nice. If I decide to give it a try, I'll definitely follow the safety items that you and Bill have mentioned.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Someone like me ? 

Yup.  

[my80malibu]

My issue with Clears of this type is measuring accurately the amounts of materials, in small increments, Does anyone have a suggestion for that they would share?

Edited March 19, 2016 by my80malibu

[Ace-Garageguy]

For accurately measuring small quantities of multi-component products for models, I use a beam scale, UNWAXED PAPER Dixie bathroom cups, and disposable plastic droppers marked in CC / milliliters.

The aircraft epoxy I use has to be mixed to an accuracy of 1/2 of 1% to work correctly, and the method I use works well.

It's necessary to use UNWAXED PAPER cups, because waxed ones will contaminate your chemicals, and plastic one will often melt.

The plastic droppers are made of a chemical-resistant material. Glass droppers are preferable, and re-usable, if you can find them.