Dryer sheets af Fiberglass matting.

[purepmd]

I stumbled across this idea while reshaping a very poorly cast resin piece for the Big Rig Build Off. The closer to the shape i wanted, the bigger the void became, and the more obvious it became that it needed drastic repair.  A while ago, I had noticed, that the Fabric Softener sheets that go in the dryer, looked a lot like the fiberglass matting used with catalyzed resin to repair 'glass auto bodies, 'glass tubs and showers, etc... only made out of much finer fiber strands. As luck would have it, the shirt I was wearing that day, had a sheet get inside of it in the dryer. I am sitting at my work bench, wondering why my sleeve felt funny, and when I found the sheet and pulled it from my sleeve, Eureka, as they say.

Once the softener itself is released from the sheet, the sheet becomes very soft, pliable, and free from the softener residue, (the CA glue does not bond well with the softener in place). It is, in fact, so soft, it is hard to cut with a scissors. I lay it out on a self healing cutting board, the anti-slip surface helps hold it in place, and cut it with a #11 blade. You can tear it, but that lease lots of stray fibers to deal with. Cut as many of the correct size and shape pieces as you will need to build the layers to the desired thickness. My experience so far, is that 1 layer equals .020 sheet styrene, as a comparable thickness. Remember, though, you will sand some of this away during the finishing process. Always and to much in order to take it down to where you need it. Besides, the more strands worked in, the stronger the set-up matting is. For most body repairs or customizing, I would recommend 3 layers, but you can adjust as needed.

While Super Glue Gel can work, the thinnest hobby CA works the best. It saturates the sheet very quickly, and has the least amount of trapped air. Air bubbles should be avoided as much as possible. Not only do they weaken the finished product, but have to be filled if you sand into one while finishing. Be careful to not over saturate the matting, as being the thin CA, it runs EVERYWHERE, FAST. If you get a little to much glue in the first layers, add another. That helps build layers but control the CA. I use tooth picks or Popsicle sticks to poke and prod the matting, not only to set the final placement, but to help with the saturation and air removal. After just a little practice, you will see there is sort of an ideal level of CA for the sheet to stay workable as well as set quickly.

That brings me to the hardening of the sheet. With the increase of surface area, the fiber strands in the sheet, the CA will set fairly quickly, even with a relatively high volume. When it does set, at the beginning, you notice no real temperature change, but as the CA sets, it does build heat. With even a relatively small, say. a dime to nickel sized area, this heat will get to the "blistered skin" level in an heartbeat. Make sure you skin is clear of the matting when it sets. I have tried using accelerators in this process, and can't really recommend them. They can help, in certain, tough to hold the shape, type situations, BUT, they can over heat the CA and matting and make it boil to a consistency of Silly String. Then you start over. USE ACCELERATOR VERY SPARINGLY!

When it comes time to finish the surface of the, now hardened sheet, it sands very much like resin and matting in full scale. It is hard, which degrades you sandpaper faster than the plastic will, and heavier, grittier paper leaves deeper scratches. It also has the trait of being a little fuzzy, like real 'glass. Always plan on a really good layer of primer after shaping.

Although I have not tried it, I am fully convinced, you could build this into a part of it own, able to withstand more stress than plastic, and easier to form than metal, as well as having the right mold, not too complex, you could use it to cast parts.

You may not us it often, but it is a nice tool to have should the need arise. Thanks for checking this out, have fun!

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Interesting material source. I'll have to try it. I've been making real fiberglass / epoxy close-to-scale-thickness parts for years and they're very strong...much stronger that styrene or resin. They DO take rather a lot of effort though.

 

Edited April 3, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[Snake45]

Great idea! I've been using model airplane tissue for similar repairs. You don't need that trick all the time, but when you need it, nothing else will work!

[Tesla]

Thank you Mark!

[gino]

very cool ! will give this a try, thanks for posting !

[purepmd]

Thanks for checking this out, guys. 

There is one thing I forgot. Whether it is resin or styrene, make sure you rough up the area the repair/fill is to attach to. The hills and valleys formed buy sand scratches make the Union of the different materials stronger. 

Good luck,

Mark.

[Canso65]

Thanks for the great tip Mark.

[vintagercr]

Great tip!