A speck of dust

[Tesla]

Yesterday I painted the hood of my current build with high gloss black. It looks terrific except for a tiny speck of dust. Is there a way to remove it without stripping all the paint off? Any and all help is appreciated!

[MrObsessive]

This is where I'm a big believer in polishing cloths!

I don't know if you have access to 'em, but since you should rub out your paint jobs anyway before waxing 'em up, I'd check into getting a polishing cloth kit from either Detail Master, or one of the other brands that may be out there on the 'net.

Since you mentioned that the black is already looking pretty good, you can probably get away with starting with the 4000 grit cloth (maybe 6000), and then work your way up to the 12,000 grit. Once done, wax everything up and it'll be nice and shiny.

Now this is provided you let the paint cure thoroughly...........you don't say how long ago you painted the hood. I like to either put newly painted parts into the dehydrator overnight, or let them dry for at least a week before doing any rubbing out or polishing. Doesn't matter which type of paint............this is just my M.O. as I hate redoing paint jobs if I don't have to.

Hope this helps!

[Tesla]

This is where I'm a big believer in polishing cloths!

I don't know if you have access to 'em, but since you should rub out your paint jobs anyway before waxing 'em up, I'd check into getting a polishing cloth kit from either Detail Master, or one of the other brands that may be out there on the 'net.

Since you mentioned that the black is already looking pretty good, you can probably get away with starting with the 4000 grit cloth (maybe 6000), and then work your way up to the 12,000 grit. Once done, wax everything up and it'll be nice and shiny.

Now this is provided you let the paint cure thoroughly...........you don't say how long ago you painted the hood. I like to either put newly painted parts into the dehydrator overnight, or let them dry for at least a week before doing any rubbing out or polishing. Doesn't matter which type of paint............this is just my M.O. as I hate redoing paint jobs if I don't have to.

Hope this helps!

Thanks Bill! I do have Revell micro mesh sheets ranging from 3600 to 12000 grit. Which method would be better...wet or dry? I will let the paint dry for two weeks before attempting this. 

[MrObsessive]

I prefer wet sanding. This'll minimize the cloths getting clogged up with paint so quickly. I like to put a couple drops of dishwashing liquid in the container of water that I'll be using. This will help also in keeping the cloths cleaned up and will make them last longer. As I move on to the higher grits, I just lay them flat to dry out, or simply put them in the dehydrator and let it do its thing. For me polishing the body out is probably the most important thing of an entire project as that's the first thing folks will see. Doesn't matter how detailed the model is.

Two weeks drying time is a good idea in my book...........a good paint job shouldn't be rushed IMO.

[snacktruck67]

What he said.

 

 

[Tesla]

Thanks guys! The paint has another week of drying time...I'll post the results.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Two weeks drying time is a good idea in my book...........a good paint job shouldn't be rushed IMO.

Two weeks should be plenty, unless it's enamel.

I wouldn't come any where near an enamel paint job for a minimum of a month!

Enamel paints like Testors take a long time to cure fully.

When I was still using enamel paints, I would paint the body & then put it away for several months to ensure it was fully cured.

Now, using lacquers, a week is usually ample time to cure, although as Bill said, the longer the better.

 

Steve

[High octane]

I usually wipe down the model with a "tack rag" before spraying primer, color, or clear on the body and this seems to help keep most if not all the dust from getting into the paint.

[zenrat]

Put a decal over it...

[Tesla]

Put a decal over it...

[redneckrigger]

Sounds like Bill has done this a few times before! And he is dead on correct! These are the very same methods used in the 1:1 world for tiny imperfections, and they work.