Rubbery resin from paint remover?

[JPolli]

  I put an old painted resin body in Scale Coat to remove the paint.  Unfortunately, I left the resin body in too long.  The paint did come off.  However, the body now has a rubbery pliable texture to it.  It seems as if I could use for a build though.   Not sure if it will hold paint?   And, will the resin body become more rubbery with time?  Thought maybe if I shot it with Metalizer it might firm it up a bit? Or, should I just "chuck It"?  Any help.  

Jim

[Art Anderson]

  I put an old painted resin body in Scale Coat to remove the paint.  Unfortunately, I left the resin body in too long.  The paint did come off.  However, the body now has a rubbery pliable texture to it.  It seems as if I could use for a build though.   Not sure if it will hold paint?   And, will the resin body become more rubbery with time?  Thought maybe if I shot it with Metalizer it might firm it up a bit? Or, should I just "chuck It"?  Any help.  

Jim

Unfortunately not.  Resin, more specifically polyurethane resin, is very sensitive to many chemicals we use for stripping paint, and Scalecoat is one of those.

Art

[Roncla]

I soaked some Replicas & Miniatures resin in isopropyl alcohol some time back to strip the paint and the parts were like rubber when I removed them.

Over a period of time though they did eventually re harden  to their original state. 

[JPolli]

Interesting Ron.  Hoping I get some more feed back.

[Craig Irwin]

I had one soften from soaking in Awesome when I was cleaning the mold release from it. It hardened after a few days but I had some body work to do.

[charlie8575]

I've found Whestley's Blech-Wite is the overall safest product to use for resin.

I have been able to use Easy-Off for paint removal with no trouble, but I haven't tried it on the newer materials. Last time I had to strip paint on resin was on a Modelhaus kit cast in the older tan resin from the 1990s. 

I've read that Smooth-On can be a bit sensitive to almost everything. 

Art and a couple of other people have also advised against long soaks for these reasons, too. Al Meske did a nice resin body (look for his '71 Mercury Cylcone) with a 1-hour soak, rinse with soap and water and air-dry, if I remember his steps right.

Charlie Larkin

[Bill J]

I actually soaked a resin body and parts in Wesley's Blech-Wite and it softened the bumpers to a rubbery state. I had soaked the items for 24 hours, per many folks recommendations. The 2 bumpers were rubbery when I painted them gloss black and then chrome Alclad, they were rubbery when I glued them on the finished model and that was weeks after the soaking.

So, now I just wash resin parts in dish soap and warm water and scrub with an old toothbrush.

Edited May 21, 2016 by Bill J

[ChrisR]

Years ago I had the same problem with a resin body I have soaked in brake fluid. It did harden over time; See the model at this link

 

[JPolli]

  I have good news to report that I have remedied my rubbery resin body caused by stripping the paint with Scale Coat.  This is how I did it:

  After washing and cleaning the body with dish soap and water; I put it in a dehydrator for 2 days.  I then lightly sanded it  Then applied 2 coats of Aluminum plate METALIZER .  Then it was put back in the dehydrator overnight.  The body now seems usable and is ready for paint.

 

 

 

[Nytrozilla]

Once upon a time, there was a Charlie Allen Dart that needed to be stripped.

Here's what brake fluid overnite does to a resin body.

Lesson learned.

[Greg Wann]

I never dreamed it could be that bad.  The type of resin we use can make a big difference.

[JPolli]

Oh no Joe!!!!!  All that work down the drain not including the cost of the resin and paint.   However, you are now a better modeler as a result.