Spazstix chrome problem

[Mr Stock]

I know this subject has been brought up time and again, but Im after a little advice here please.

I am a first time user of Spazstix and I tried it out last night on a bumper from a vintage 68 Corvette kit, the bumper itself was stripped of the old chrome, all mold lines cleaned and then shot with a very glossy coat of Tamiya TS14 black spray. The finish I got from the Spazstix was very impressive, however and this is my question, I handled the part after about an hour or so and I noticed the finish was coming off pretty quick, now Ive heard that S/stix is more resilient than say Alclad but should I have let it dry for say 24-48 hours?. Plus is it ok to use the TS14 gloss black as a basecoat or is it best to use their own black backer?. I used the airbrush version of S/stix as we cannot get the spray can version in the UK at all.

Thanks Gary

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

I have a question as well...and please forgive me if this has already been answered (probably has). The SpazStix rattlecan product I'm coming up with says it's for the inside of Lexan bodies and that using it for exterior work will produce a dull finish.

Judging from Harry's results, I think I must be looking at the wrong product.

Is there a number for the right stuff?

[Len Woodruff]

I love Spaz-Stick Mirror Chrome. I shoot it at 15lbs from my airbrush over Tamiya Gloss Black Lacquer. While it is more durable than Alclad chrome it still needs to be handled carefully.

Your right it was designed for the inside of lexan bodies but works great for chrome on our models.

 

[JTalmage]

I use the rattle can stuff, and I actually have to buff on them a little with my fingers and then finish it off with a microfiber cloth and it looks pretty good.

[High octane]

I've used Spaz-Stix Mirror Chrome in the spray can.a few times over Krylon Short Cuts Black, on both plastic and resin parts and I'm happy with the results.

[Roncla]

I've found  Spaz- Stix and Alclad to be more durable to handling when sprayed over an enamel base.

Edited September 1, 2016 by Roncla

[Cato]

  On 9/1/2016 at 1:10 AM, Roncla said:

I've found  Spaz- Stix and Alclad to be more durable to handling when sprayed over an enamel base.

Hmmm. that's interesting. I'm guessing the Spaz dies into the softer enamel then gets hardened when all cured. Lacquer hardens much sooner and the Spaz may just lay on it without penetrating. Total speculation on my part so fire away...

[thatz4u]

I also was a first time user & used TS14 & Mirror Chrome in rattlecans. I applied TS14 & waited 24 hours, next day I applied mirror chrome in light mist coats waiting 15-30 minutes between coats. When I got the finish that looked like chrome I stopped!! anymore might have ruined it. I let them dry 24 hrs. before handling them, hope this helps...

[crazyjim]

I always used gloss black enamel under Alclad or Spaz Stik.  I'm not sure, but I don't think Tamiya rattle cans are enamel.

[Mr Stock]

  On 9/1/2016 at 12:34 PM, thatz4u said:

I also was a first time user & used TS14 & Mirror Chrome in rattlecans. I applied TS14 & waited 24 hours, next day I applied mirror chrome in light mist coats waiting 15-30 minutes between coats. When I got the finish that looked like chrome I stopped!! anymore might have ruined it. I let them dry 24 hrs. before handling them, hope this helps...

Thanks to everyone for your replies, Al your method is pretty much what I used, the results were great, I still don't want to handle the parts too much, but the finish is way better than Alclad for me. You can see my efforts in "Under Glass" the Frog/AMT 68 Corvette build.