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68 Dodge Dart 440 Custom Finally Finished 3-29-17


microwheel

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That 440 looks GREAT! The lettering in the valve covers, that a decal on both of them?????

Heat shrink tubing goes a long ways for a collector for headers, but in my case, I use it a lot of the time to make a "Y" pipe for single exhaust on the cars that I have seen family member have real ones of, so, heat shrink tubing works well for the "Y" as well as the way you used it here, NICE job!

That engine alone is SEXY!!!!! -Very nice!

Hi John Thanks. Yup they are decals that come with the valve covers. Chrome lettering decals at that. was a nice surprise. The fins are BMF that I applied to the valve covers before painting them and then using a tooth pick dipped in lacquer thinner I removed the paint off just the fins to give it the final look before applying the supplied mopar performance decal for the center square of the valve cover.

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Thanks guys I use heat shrink tube on exhausts whenever I find a need for it. Its a neat product that works great.

As for updates. Thanks to John Deere taking their sweet time getting my needed new head bolts,(wont be here till Wednesday), for my tractor project, I will get a little more time back in the hobby room this evening and tomorrow. So hopefully I will be able to get some more things done the next few days and post some more updates.

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Evening Guys. Sorry didn't get a update posted today. It was so nice out up here in Northern Michigan today, I spent most of it out in the garage working on a few things I didnt get done in the fall. I did get in the hobby room this evening and started working on the chassis on the dart though. I got the chassis detail painted and ran the fuel lines and started planning out the brake main rear brake line and ebrake. I hope to at least get the master rear brake line run in the morning before my tractor parts arrive tomorrow afternoon. (at which point I got to get it back together before the weather turns cold again this weekend). I hope to post some progress pics by early afternoon though so stay tuned. and thanks for being patient with me. I know this thing is going a little slow.

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Well finally after spending most of the day getting the engine put back together on my tractor, I finally got a few minutes to sit down tonight and get a little something posted on the dart. As per my post last night I got the chassis detail painted and got the fuel line and vapor return line run. I also got the main rear brake like formed and test fitted. I still have to fix the brake line into place and make and install the brake line tie down brackets. Then I can start working on the ebrake and finally start working on detailing the rear suspension with brake lines and ebrake cables as well as get the exhaust painted and installed and rear shocks and rear-end housing cover.

For now here is a few pics of where I am on the chassis.

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I removed the rear bumper braces so I wouldnt brake them off durning detailing, Plus it made it easier to paint them. Talk about a job to trim them off without messing them up.

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That's pretty much it for tonight. Hopefully things will start progressing a lot faster now that I got the pain of a back side of a tractor back together.

Thanks for being patient with me guys and thanks a lot for checking out the dart build so far.

 

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Jim, are those axle bump-stops I see?  Very nice!!!!

Tim 

Hi Tim Yup they are, but I didnt add them. they were already molded to the frame by revell. I just detail painted them

Hey Jim, very nice work actually impressive work, could I see the other side of the chassis.  Just want to see how you make it look for the other side.  Thanks 

Hi Dan. Thanks. I could take a pick of the top side of the chassis and post it, but there really isnt anything special to see on it. The interior pan covers most of it except for the front frame area that comes into the engine bay. As for detail with the top side of the front frame area, I havent ran the brake and fuel lines all the way to the front yet. I'll do that just before I install the engine on it. That way I can run the fuel line all the way to the engine fuel pump. The brake line will get completed out when I am ready to run the front wheels brake lines. Mostly because I have to make a junction block for them yet. But if you still want a plain jane shot of the top side of the chassis, I'll take one this evening and post it.

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I finished the basic chassis work by adding the final brake line brackets and adding a rubber brake line hose that will tie into the rear housing brake lines later. I then made the e-brake pull cable. For the cable itself I used silver craft thread and for the pull spring, I made 2 brackets out of evergreen I-beam that was cut shaped and drilled. one bracket was painted black and glued to the chassis just in front of the rear frame and one was primed and glued to the rear frame rail. Then a piece of copper wire was wrapped around a piano wire to make a spring and then slid off the piano wire and onto a piece of soft craft bead wire and a small strip of evergreen strip plastic was cut and drilled and added to the end of the spring. This assembly was CA glued to the black bracket and a small piece of evergreen plastic tube was glued to the other side of the bracket and painted aluminum. A piece of silver craft thread was CA glued into the tube and a small hole drilled in the front frame rail and the thread was pulled through that and CA glued and painted light gun metal. Lastly the rear bumper brackets were reattached to the chassis.

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Edited by microwheel
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I love Model Master Metalizer paints especially the buffing metalizers. I have used them alot over the years since they first hit the hobby store shelves. The nice thing about them is they air brush right out of the bottles without thinning and I have never needed to prime a part first before applying them. And if applied right, they wont rub off over time.

I applied buffing metalizer stainless steel and then let it dry for 10 minutes and buffed it out. I let it cure for a hour and then without even masking off the rest of the exhaust I applied burnt metal buffing metalizer on the mufflers. I let it dry for 10 minutes and then buffed the whole exhaust again. Once it cured for another hour I applied a mist coat of burnt metal near the area of the exhaust where the headers attache and also near the exhaust tail pipe tips and then buffed the whole exhaust out again. Then set the exhaust aside to cure over night.

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Edited by microwheel
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Next I painted the entire shock assemblies with Tamiya yellow. Once dry I masked off the bottom of the shocks and painted the tops with model master light blue metallic. Once that dried I masked off the entire shocks and painted the shock mounts Tamiya semi-gloss black. Then I set the shock assemblies aside to cure over night.

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Then I moved on to detailing the rear end. I painted the rear end cover with metalizer aluminum plate and buffed it out. Once cured I glued it to the rear end. I then made e-brke pull arms from evergreen strip plastic with holes drilled in them and attached them to the inner areas of the wheel stops on the axle and then painted them metalizer brass. I made a brake T fitting out of thick evergreen plastic strip With holes drilled on three sides and then cut and shaped it into a T. I then used soft craft bead wire shaped to the rear end housing and added to the tee. I drilled holes on the back side of each wheel stop and glued the craft wire into it. This completed the axle brake lines. I then wrapped some more copper wire around piano wire to form pull cables and slid the cables on some more soft craft bead wire. These were CA glued to e-brake pull arms I added earlier. the rear end assembly was then set aside to cure over night.

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Edited by microwheel
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