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'69 Camaro RS Z/28


adamelvis

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Hello Fellow Modelers ! 

Boy oh Boy!  I'm so excited to be back into my beloved hobby !!, it has been 18 years since I have built a model.  Last year, a good friend of mine found an old "Fall Guy Truck" from MPC that he had  30+ years ago as a kid. He asked me if I could build it for him .... and that was all it took !!   (I'll post pics on this kit later).  Now, I have a wife and two young wonderful kids, so what better way to get on her good side, so she doesn't frown too much on the future neglect and my modeling priorities (lol) ?  Start by building your wife her favorite car !! A  Blue '69 Camaro RS Z/28.

I will share my tips to help others and also learn from all of you, so please comment. 

TCB,

Adam

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This big triangular chunk of plastic hardly looks like a realistic hood hinge. I cut the middle out and it looks much better now.  

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MCG makes a good PE set for this model, so I got it and will use most of all the parts. (I have a question later about installing the Camaro script and Z/28 emblems on the body exterior ).   Here I used the steering wheel arms and center cap.  The stock one is very chunky and has not much detail. It was cut out and replaced with the PE part. Much better, however, I didn't realize that I had a decal for the center cap and I ended up doing my best red, white & blue paint job I could.

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I used flat black for the interior, as I did not have semi-glass black at the time. With all the man handling of these parts, the oils from your hands rub off on the parts anyhow, which ends up giving you a subtle semi-gloss look in the end. I dry brushed two shades of brown over the center console panel and dashboard. PE gages, Camaro script and glove box lock was used.

QUESTION:  1.) How do I glue on the "Rally Sport" , "Camaro" and "Z-28"  script to the side of my car body?  do I use super glue?, regular model glue?  clear window glue? or a coat of clear underneath? 

2.) Do I clear coat over these parts once attached to the body?  or do I add them on at the very end of completion, once the final car polish has been completed?

3.)  Do most people clear coat over the BMF window trim and door handles?  or is this again one of those very last things to add to your model, once the final polish has been done?

Thanks !

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Here is a good close up of the dual carb, 302?  (can someone confirm this, as I have to know which PE engine size number to put on the hood cowl. lol).  It has been plumbed and I have even made the oil dipstick by stripping of the end of a wire, bending it into a fish hook, then dipping it into yellow paint. This is such a quick & easy thing to do for additional engine detail.

More pics later ....    

TCB, 

Adam

Edited by adamelvis
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Welcome back,!    Z/28 is a 302.   Super glue will work for scripts but doesn't give you much time to reposition.  Clear parts glue works.  Clear paint works, too.  So does epoxy.  They will give you more time to reposition.  You can clear over the scripts but the clear coat will curve at the edges and it doesn't look realistic.  You can clear over BMF, I never have but some do, some don't.  Do polish the paint under where the foil's going to go so it's nice and smooth.    

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Clear paint.  I used to use Model Master Enamel Clear Top Coat, but lately I've switched to Mr Color #46 Clear.   I used it on some PE parts on the hull on a tank model and it was so strong i could hold the entire hull up by the PE part.  

Awesome. Thanks ! 

TCB,

Adam

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Best thing to use for attaching the script is model masters clear lacquer gloss coat. Just a tiny bit on the end of a paint brush applied to the area of the model where the script goes and then attach the part quickly since the clear lacquer can dry fast.  I've used epoxy, super glue, CA+ glue, and even the white model canopy glue for rc aircraft and non of them worked as well or turn out as nicely as Model Masters clear lacquer gloss coat. Also I never cleared over PE parts or BMF, mostly because I like to wet sand the orange peel out of my final clear coat and dont want to chance sanding through to the BMF if applied first. And PE parts just dont look right when clear coated. Now as for when I do my interiors, if I intend to use BMF on the dash or door trim areas, I will do all my BMF work before painting and then paint over the BMF and once the paint has dried, I'll use a few tooth picks dipped in Lacquer thinner or Denatured Alcohol and gently remove the paint off the raised detail that was earlier covered in BMF, It just turns out better than trying to BMF the areas after painting. But I only do this on the Interior.

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Best thing to use for attaching the script is model masters clear lacquer gloss coat. Just a tiny bit on the end of a paint brush applied to the area of the model where the script goes and then attach the part quickly since the clear lacquer can dry fast.  I've used epoxy, super glue, CA+ glue, and even the white model canopy glue for rc aircraft and non of them worked as well or turn out as nicely as Model Masters clear lacquer gloss coat. Also I never cleared over PE parts or BMF, mostly because I like to wet sand the orange peel out of my final clear coat and dont want to chance sanding through to the BMF if applied first. And PE parts just dont look right when clear coated. Now as for when I do my interiors, if I intend to use BMF on the dash or door trim areas, I will do all my BMF work before painting and then paint over the BMF and once the paint has dried, I'll use a few tooth picks dipped in Lacquer thinner or Denatured Alcohol and gently remove the paint off the raised detail that was earlier covered in BMF, It just turns out better than trying to BMF the areas after painting. But I only do this on the Interior.

Jim, Thank you for the great tips above.  When I stopped modeling 18 years ago, I had just started using BMF and PE parts.  Now I have saved myself future screw ups by going the route you used. I see using clear lacquer is the best way to install the PE parts on body exteriors.  

TCB,

Adam

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Went to the local Walmart and picked up this pkg of twill patches for $5.  Cut out a roof liner from a template I made from Post-It notes.  You can make about 28 roof liners for less than .20 cents each !!. With an option for four different colors also (black brown, tan & white).

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This was my attempt to make a interior dome light for the 69 Camaro, using some scrap from the parts tree.  The light cover should be white plastic, however, I used clear.  I might paint over it later. 

TCB, Adam

H.thumb.JPG.19f5452d8eba076ca5fed376fb96Here is the final result. Both the cloth roof liner and dome light worked out great !

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  • 2 weeks later...

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My wife choose Tamiya's Mica Blue (TS-50) for the colour and then a couple coats of Tamiya Clear (TS-13) over top the decals.

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Wanted to give some more details to the stock kit carburators. I used the piping from scrap wire, strip styrene and wire.  You can used the sticky side of a Post-It note to tack down your small parts for gluing. 

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Here is my completed engine bay with spark plug wires, heater hoses & clamps, battery cables, brake lines, vaccum hoses, fuel lines and the windshield washer hose !  All that is left to do is add the final photo etched Camaro emblems to the body exterior and finish up with one final polish before it is entered into the Auto Modelrama Contest.

TCB,

Adam 

Edited by adamelvis
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