bisc63 Posted June 30, 2017 Posted June 30, 2017 At a glance, it looks like you can lose a fair amount behind the rear wheels; look how long the area occupied by the gas tank is on the Lindberg kit. Yes to the above tips, do measure and get the wheelbase right first, but if you can lose some at the back, I would begin by cutting across the center of the gas tank on the Lindberg, removing a slice as wide as necessary, then, scribe both gas tanks free, patch the resulting trunk floor hole, and use the Johan tank glued in place to not only look more correct for the car, but to reinforce and hide a good deal of the splice seam. While it's cut free, you could take a bit of sheet plastic to give the gas tank a more accurate 3D appearance.
Super28 Posted June 30, 2017 Author Posted June 30, 2017 Ok, Took the '62 Dodge out of the Purple Power Stuff, Cleaned up real good. The top tail lights are still in the body but took the chrome plating off them. Will Chrome paint them later. That was Step 2 of the Dodge project. Ordered a razor saw to cut the frame of the 64 dodge down to fit under the '62 body. so time to move on to #3, Step 1, 1956 Chevy, (#2, 1060 Desoto got moved to the end at #113 . I want to be a lot better when I go to work on that one) Later
mod3l Lover Posted June 30, 2017 Posted June 30, 2017 Terry, I would use a good lacquer primer (like Dupli-color) becausethen it does not matter what type of paint you use after that. That body really looks good by the way, you must be very happywith the outcome so far!?! David S.
Super28 Posted July 1, 2017 Author Posted July 1, 2017 Yup. Glad it took the paint off that good. Going to hate losing the emblems on the sides and back when I sand to paint.Has anybody done this "make your own " decals? Is it hard? (Remember I'm an old fart!)
oldcarfan Posted July 1, 2017 Posted July 1, 2017 If you're careful, you might not have to lose the emblems. Also do you have sanding sticks to take down the mold seams? They are widely available and come in everything from coarse to super fine polishing ones. I always use Dupli Color sandable primers straight out of the can for my cars as it seems to work under even the hottest paints. It does go on pretty thick though. You might consider taking some of your better original builds and just cleaning them up. Sometimes it's fun to look back and compare old builds with new ones.
Super28 Posted July 1, 2017 Author Posted July 1, 2017 Thanks Gary. That's what I'm trying to do. I want to improve on my detailing and improve the old ones and so when I get to the newer ones I'll be able to do a better job. Where is a good place to get sanding sticks? I saw them at one of the supply places but can't remember where
Super28 Posted July 12, 2017 Author Posted July 12, 2017 Zooming right along! Finished the valve covers for the motor to go in the Dodge Dart. Hang in there for future updates......if you live so long, lol
bisc63 Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 Very realistic; I really admire this kind of CLEAN technique!
fordf-100 Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 Another good paint stripper that I use is ZEP floor wax stripper that you can get at Home Depot for around $10 a gallon. Soak the body in it and it usuallyde-bonds (if thats a word!) the paint from the body. I have had no issues with plastic damage. I have not used this on resin parts so as always test before using!Also wear gloves! I saw that you have already stripped your project but I just wanted to share this!
Super28 Posted July 12, 2017 Author Posted July 12, 2017 Rusty, I've attached my references for the engine I found online. I want this build to be like I would've built it back in late 60s , early 70s on a working man's budget. Something you would actually see on the street. I plan on shackles, air Hi-jacker air shocks, chrome traction bars. Stuff I would've bought and would've put on my car "back in the day" Phillip. Thanks. I got Purple Power at Wal-Mart for $5.00 a gallon. Bought a plastic bucket , with a lid at Homely Deport for 5 bucks and keep it in the garage. Will use it until it gets too bad to use and will dump that out and buy another gallon. I'm fortunate enough to have a detached garage to do that in
Super28 Posted July 12, 2017 Author Posted July 12, 2017 Also plan on having the right firing order on the plugs
Super28 Posted July 13, 2017 Author Posted July 13, 2017 (edited) Ok. Bought me a "Tea Ball" at Wally World for about $3.00. Used to make tea. Put tea leaves in ball and dip in hot water to make tea. Not me. Put alternator and 2 carburetors for Dodge Dart in it. Put it in the stripper. worked great. Didn't have to "fish" around for parts. See Below Edited July 13, 2017 by Super28 add
mod3l Lover Posted July 15, 2017 Posted July 15, 2017 I have to tell you, the tea ball ideais pure genius! I'm stealing that ideafor sure Terry!! Then you can rinse the gunk offwithout even taking them out of thetea ball device too. That's when Ilose most parts in that way!!! Thanks, David S.
Super28 Posted July 15, 2017 Author Posted July 15, 2017 I have to tell you, the tea ball ideais pure genius! I'm stealing that ideafor sure Terry!! Then you can rinse the gunk offwithout even taking them out of thetea ball device too. That's when Ilose most parts in that way!!! Thanks, David S.You're welcome David. Pass it on. I steal a lot of ideas from this site. But I guess that's why we'll here, to help each other. Pass on any ideas you have, I appreciate all I learn hereSuper
Super28 Posted July 17, 2017 Author Posted July 17, 2017 Holy Cow! I didn't realize that this photo etch stuff was so small! Going to be interesting!
Davewilly Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 Holy Cow! I didn't realize that this photo etch stuff was so small! Going to be interesting! Oh yeah...Its fun!...You may or may not have seen other talk about cutting them free....I use a piece of tape folded over then sick it to my desk top them place the piece I want on the tape to cut them loose. That way they dont fly around the room...and they will! I use a #18 or a #19 style x-acto blade to cut mine off with. doesnt take much pressure to cut them free.
Super28 Posted July 17, 2017 Author Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) Thanks Dave. I'll do that when I try to cut them loose Edited July 17, 2017 by Super28
Slotto Posted July 18, 2017 Posted July 18, 2017 Good stuff Terry! I wish I would have done more research when I was building my Dodge 330. Those engine pics would have came in handy!
Super28 Posted July 18, 2017 Author Posted July 18, 2017 Hey Steve. Yeah, I used the internet to research the motor that came with the "Color Me Gone" model I bought for the frame. Decided to use the motor in it for my '62 Dodge. Waiting to get the photo etch parts for it. Didn't know they were going to be that small.
bisc63 Posted July 18, 2017 Posted July 18, 2017 Before you bend or fold any of those photoetch parts, they need to be annealed by heating with a lighter or small torch, and allowed to cool.Here's a great walk-thru video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8hIxSzUrfQ
Super28 Posted July 18, 2017 Author Posted July 18, 2017 Before you bend or fold any of those photoetch parts, they need to be annealed by heating with a lighter or small torch, and allowed to cool.Here's a great walk-thru video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8hIxSzUrfQThanks Rusty. Didn't know that
Super28 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Posted August 3, 2017 OK. Back on the Dodge. Heck with the motor for now! Back to frame. Cut the frame from a 1964 Dodge "Color Me Gone" Linberg kit to fit under thr '62 Dodge Dart. How do ya'll think it looks? Decided to cut the front frame rails back a little more to put the front support piece back on for strength and to fill the gap. Got to do something with that molded in radiator support on the body!
Super28 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Posted August 3, 2017 Now if I can get junkyardjeff to come off those tires and wheels on his '34 Ford..................
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