LHD Gulf Seven

[Scale-Master]

I milled the mounting hardware for the intake manifolds and then added them to the engine.

It's almost ready to install into the chassis.

[Anglia105E]

Now that's a proper scale model car engine Mark........ there is no finer detail that you could add to that engine, beyond the level you have taken it to.  When I first assembled and painted an engine, I applied a ' dot ' of liquid chrome, and in my mind it was a bolt head or a nut...... but what you do is to use an actual bolt head or a nut, and not just a ' dot '...... Maybe I need to re-think my crude approach to some aspects of my scale model car building !

David

[Scale-Master]

Thank you David.  In many cases it is more than a bolt too.  A washer, a stud, a lock nut...  

 

Brass mounting bracket for the tank.  I acid cut the ears/tabs and soldered them onto the ring.

[Scale-Master]

I installed the engine; it might stay, or it might have to come out if I can't get access to everything I need to attach to it…

[Scale-Master]

I did have to remove the engine once to finagle the header in.  But it is in for good now…

The scratch-built Left Hand Drive footbox has been installed too.

[John Teresi]

Mark......AWESOME  work......AWESOME Build!!!!!!

[Scale-Master]

Thanks John!

 

The proportioning valve was milled from an aluminum impregnated resin blank I cast.  The five fittings and knob were milled from aluminum.

[Scale-Master]

The proportioning valve is installed to the firewall and plumbed to the master cylinder and out to the brake lines.  The hard lines were made from aluminum rod.

[Scale-Master]

I made the mounting and detail hardware for the ignition box.  I also made rubber insulators for the four mounting bolts.  The (correctly colored and sized) wires have been added with a grommet where they are connected to the box.  The larger wires connect to the battery and already have the clamps installed to the ends.

[Anglia105E]

Mark..... the engine has fitted into the engine bay quite nicely by the look of it, and your detailing continues...... detail, detail and more detail!

David

[Scale-Master]

Thanks David!

 

I formed and added the front brake hard lines and connected them to the flex lines that were installed with the brakes.  The upper frame and scuttle have been installed permanently and I started to install the ignition system and wiring.

[Scale-Master]

I installed the battery and connected it to the starter solenoid and the ignition box.  There is heat shielding on the positive cable where it snakes past the header.

Also wired the master cylinder.

Wired the coil into the system and made the little brass hardware for the signal wires.

[John Teresi]

Mark....Awesome up-date.....a lot of good looking parts in that engine bay?

[Scale-Master]

Thanks John!

 

I finished the radiator and oil cooler.  I machined some bolts and washers to hold it all together as well as a drain petcock, cap, plug and oil line fittings.

I made a framework that is mounted to the oil cooler brackets to support the stone shield.  It is bound to it with .002 thick wire.  I also made all the decals.

Sorry for the bad shot of the shield frame, didn't notice the wrong setting before I assembled it permanently.

[Scale-Master]

Time to get back to work on the scratch-built brass roof.  I used Faux Fabrix for the texture on the exterior but it wasn't as uniform as I wanted so I sanded it off.  (That's what the red is.) 

I reworked the mount that attaches to the roll bar and had to fine tune the fit of the lower side edges where they meet the body by adding more material.  (Note the little tab that fits into the body above the rear springs.)

[majel]

Simply amazing work Mark!  Your scratchbuilding skills are very impressive. The engine and engine bay look spot on.

[Anglia105E]

Mark..... That has got to be the most detailed and also most impressive engine bay that I have ever seen in a scale model motor car. The radiator and associated parts looks to be exactly what it is...... a perfectly fabricated 1:24 scale replica of a full size radiator and associated parts. Faultless in every detail, and something for us all to aspire to. One day, I might get half way close to your level of building Mark..... and I would be happy with that achievement.

David

[John Teresi]

Mark......Remarkable execution on this build.......love everything about it.......cant wait to see it at GSL......it will turn heads once again

 

[Scale-Master]

Thanks guys!  

I retextured and final painted the exterior of the roof.

[Scale-Master]

The beginning of the license plate.  Acid cut brass.

[Scalper]

wow

[Scale-Master]

Front latches for the securing the roof were milled out of resin and the rear mount for the roll bar was built out of brass then they were "fiber glassed" in before painting.

I milled the roof lock pins from aluminum.

And I acid cut the lock levers from brass.  They are really small.

[Scale-Master]

All installed and painted.

[Anglia105E]

Just when I thought you could not go any smaller Mark...... acid cut lock levers from brass...... and here's me hesitating and pondering over how to make two small round hinges for the windshield of my 1933 MG K3 Magnette in white metal. Surely, if you can do it then so can I ( not necessarily ). Seriously though Mark, your work on the roof and the license plate is inspirational to watch in progress.

David

[Scale-Master]

Thank you David.  just keep plugging away.  I thought I had peaked back in 2003.  And then in '07 I realized just trying is half the battle.  

 

I used the piece of brass I cut out of the inner window frame (attached to the inside of the roof) as the template to cut the window from some clear plastic stock.

The second piece of the frame below the window and template will sandwich the window into the roof assembly.