Body filler vs paint strippers

[BigTallDad]

I've seen a lot of questions regarding the best body filler and so on....

Since very few of us achieve a perfect paint job every time, which body fillers are more resistant to the purple pond etc.? I've I've done considerable work filling in an area, do I need to look forward to doing that again if I have to strip the paint?

What fillers are more strip-resistant?

[Mark]

Regular (one part) spot putty is nothing more than extremely thick lacquer primer.  It'll come off along with any paint/primer.  You don't want to leave the filler on anyway; it's porous (even the two-part stuff) and will no doubt absorb whatever you use to strip the paint.  It'll come back to bite you later on.

[Snake45]

Regular (one part) spot putty is nothing more than extremely thick lacquer primer.  It'll come off along with any paint/primer.  You don't want to leave the filler on anyway; it's porous (even the two-part stuff) and will no doubt absorb whatever you use to strip the paint.  It'll come back to bite you later on.

What he said. If you wanted the filler to be permanent, you should have used an epoxy product.

Although you could TRY coating the putty with superglue. I always do this anyway, as it seems to harden and stabilize the putty (and I do a final sanding on it, of course). I can't promise superglued putty would stand up to stripper, but it might be worth a try.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Like the other kids said, if you gotta strip bodywork, pretty much figure on doing ALL the filler work over again.

One-part putty comes off just like lacquer, but it's rarely adhered as well to the substrate.

Two-part fillers usually wrinkle around the edges first, but they're porous, as mentioned, and will soak up whatever stripping medium you elect to use.

Even epoxy can be affected by stripper. Chemical resistance varies wildly with epoxies, and the stuff sold for models is towards the bottom of the scale usually.