Tamiya Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-R "Hakosuka"

[shucky]

Hello everyone! It is hard to believe that I haven't updated this post in 2 years! As I have many projects going on at the same time, I alternate any time I get burned out from one to another. Anyways, much work has been put in to the Skyline so I thought I should keep this thread alive and update it. 

While I played around with wheel choices for a very long time (still do), it delayed moving forward with the front suspension until I narrowed down my choices. Basically, I had to move the front shocks inward about 4-5mm on the top and about 2-3mm on the lower in order for me to get the look I wanted. Typically those that lower this kit considerably have massive camber issues because they do not alter the shock mounting points and suspension geometry. I wanted a low down look with mild camber while keeping it realistic. I also still wanted to keep the ability to turn the wheels left or right. So lots of scratch building was in store ...

These are the final version of the shocks and springs with mounting points moved inwards ...

[shucky]

Since I did this with the suspension, I had to make the spindles and brakes also. Had to narrow the steering arm as well. 

[shucky]

Next up where the kit torsion bars that had to be removed and remade. All of this is ready for primer, assembly, etc but on hold until i get the chassis in primer and paint. 

[shucky]

I also wanted to customize the Skyline a bit, and seeing as how I just picked up the Aoshima "Charasuka Works" kit, I thought I'd make some resin copies of the slanted single headlights, headlight covers, and front lip and then fit them to the Tamiya kit. I also really liked the oil cooler from the Tamiya kit and wanted to make copies of that too. Lastly, I made a new fan for the S20 since I do agree the kit piece is too chunky!

[shucky]

Some test fitting after reshapping the resin pieces. 

[shucky]

Never thought I'd be this excited for primer! Its been a long time coming! lol

[shucky]

More updates tomorrow ....

[Italianhorses]

Very nice detail work on the engine. I know you can't really see it, but I would drill inside the velocity stacks.

Following this for sure!

[afx]

Impressive work Mike.

[Erik Smith]

I’m glad to see this one is still alive! The new fan is awesome. Well, it all is. 

[shucky]

Hello again, here are some mock up's with my favorite wheels choices (still subject to change - lol). The "Bilbo's" are resin cast in color and the Work Meister CR01 are from DiOlex Production. 

Edited May 14, 2020 by shucky

[shucky]

I also really like the look of the large single tail lights on more modified Hako's ... so out came the files again ...

Also test fit the rivets

[shucky]

Also, after shaping the Charasuka Works lights and covers to fit the Tamiya kit, I re-cast them in Smooth On Onyx black resin to avoid painting. 

[fumi]

19 hours ago, shucky said:

I also really like the look of the large single tail lights on more modified Hako's ... so out came the files again ...

One popular mod was to use the one piece 1968-69 tail lights in place of the dual tail lights of the post 1970 Skyline.

http://showa.blog.shinobi.jp/車両メンテナンス　大将商会/ハコスカ　前期４５テールに変更！

[Intmd8r]

Very impressive detail.  Nice work!

[shucky]

So, while I decide on a color for this build, I shift the focus to the interior. I wanted something more purpose built with some look of a stripped out interior. Since I have a spare Tamiya kit in case I dont like the result, I decided to tackle making it appear as if the interior panels have been removed. 

First step was removing the kit door panel and trim piece details. I made a template on styrene of the basic shapes I wanted based on some photos I found online. After carefully fitting, I test fit into the body and realized the door panel seem does not align with the door opening on the body. Its about 3-4mm off. This is an older Tamiya kit so I give them a pass on this one lol. I had to rescribe the panel line on the interior side to align with that of the body. Got the door frame in primer and test fit again. 

[shucky]

So far I like the result. I do not want to make all the same pieces for the left side by hand, so I cleaned up all of the styrene pieces and put them in rubber for resin casting. These will likely be the thinnest and most delicate resin pieces I've made so far. Should be able to pour resin this evening or tomorrow morning. Should the resin be a success, I can then proceed to trim the other side door panel to fit the pieces and begin working on removing the rear seat cushions. 

 

[Italianhorses]

Looks good. What do you use to make the molds? What brand resin?

[shucky]

Hello Alex, the rubber is Smooth On Mold Max 14NV and I use Alumilite White resin. 

[shucky]

Resin copies were a success. Time to assemble. 

[shucky]

So I moved on to the rear deck. Using some reference photos, I created a new styrene piece for the rear deck. Also, since the back seat will be removed I need to create the framing and structural pieces found from reference photos. The gas tank will be visible through this area as well, so lots of work to do. To ensure the rear deck stays in exactly the same position as intended I left it attached to the rear seat structure until I made mounting tabs for it. The rear seat will entirely be removed at the last moment after ensuring the deck is properly aligned. 

[shucky]

These areas were too deep so I filled with styrene shaped to fit. 

[shucky]

Mock up of USCP "hydro brake" to be installed later

[shucky]

Starting to assemble the inner door panels/structure. Almost ready for more primer and lots more details to add. 

[shucky]

Both sides of door structures coming together. One styrene, the other is resin copies.